TT TOMA project

Bernd, Are these new TOMA modules going to connect to your existing Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy?

TT Scale Toma

Yes, the name of the TT scale railroad will be the Otter Creek Falls Coal & Lumber Rwy. After I started the Gum Stump & Snowshoe portion I discovered I needed to learn a bit more about layout building and decided I needed to start with a flatter surface. I had been watching Joey Ricard's videos and liked his method of building a portable layout. I also didn't like the 2" thick foam top I had used. Although light as a feather that module just didn't do it for me. I wanted something more substantial. The GS&S part will connect with this first module. After reading Joe Fugate's TOMA series of articles I decided to follow that procedure of finishing a layout one section at a time.

Bernd

I like it and will be

I like it and will be following this thread, can't wait to see how it grows.

More info

Always have a fond spot for logging. If you are interested in more info RMC ran a series of articles back in the 70's or early 80's on different logging structures. Could be worth checking out since I suspect you will be doing a lot of scratch building. And it could be you already know about the series too.

Jack

RMC Articles

Thanks Jack. I have every issue from about 1961 on up to 2017. I remember that series. Lot's of interesting info. Also the Narrow Gauge and Shortline Gazette has lot's of logging info. Have the DVD set from issue 1 and all the magazines up to the latest. I'm one that saves all my magazines for research later on.

Bernd

The Grand Plan

Here's a bit of the grand plan for the TT scale modules. I have five modules that I plan on building as individual modules to be linked together as they are completed.

The first module to be built will be the Otter Creek Falls Lumber and Coal Co. engine facilities.

Once that module is finished the next will be the coal mine module. This plan was part of a layout design in Model Railroader eons ago that I modified some what. When I find that article again I'll explain how the mine tracks work.

After that comes the famous Gum Stump & Snowshoe module. This will be the logging part of the total layout.

Then two more module plans that I liked from Model Railroader, the Epithet Creek terminal and engine facilities.

Two more modules need to be planned. The coal processing plant and a lumber mill. That's to far into the future at present to design right now. The five modules will keep my busy for several years to come. This is a long range forecast that could change from day to day.

Bernd

Posting Updates

Post edited for deletion. Information doesn't pertain to the thread anymore.

Bernd

MR Plans

Bernd:

Please do occasionally post some progress shots here. I have always liked those MR module designs and, in particular, the Epithet Creek. For some reason I want to say Ephit (sic) Creek and have been looking for the right place for that name on my layout. Sort of "good enough". 

Progress post

Not to worry Neil. I'll post a "Readers Digest" version on the forums and have the full description on the website. Problem was I was loosing track of where all my pictures are, plus I was winding up with duplicate folders for separate forums, it just started to become a mess on my end. I figure this will help keep everything under control.

For the longest time I kept calling Epithet ( I believe it's pronounced Epi - thet) , Epitaph. Dyslexia I think.

I've sort of neglected my website for the last couple of years. I'm going to see if I can get some order with making sure every page design looks similar. Right now I've got some hodgepodge  pages. I was trying to teach myself HTML language. Still learning.

Bernd

First "TOMA" module built.

Finally got my Kreg pocket screw jig and some wood to assemble my first module.

Enjoy.

Bernd

A Question?

Hi Bernd,

Nice work on the carpentry. 

Just out of curiosity, what does this module weigh in at once it has the top attached? Would it be possible to stand the module up on its end once it has its lid on a set of digital scales before any track goes down?

Answer to John's Question

Without track the module weigh's in at 21.2 pounds ( or 9.6 kilo's).

I've been following Joey Ricard's video module build of his new portable layout.

I'll be adding some sort of wheeled undercarriage for it. It'll make it easier to move around. Also I don't plan on traveling more that 30 miles. Only going to take it to a single show very near me.

Bernd

Thanks Bernd

Hi Bernd,

Curiosity answered. Thanks for taking the time to put your module over the scales. 

I've also been watching Joey's progress. His approach makes interesting viewing. 

The wheeled undercart may be a good idea, especially if it is likely that it wil be a one-person move more often than not. The aim of the game surely should be to make doing this hobby as easy on yourself as possible.

Thanks again,

Your welcome John

More to come as I get time to work on the layout. Laying out the track work at present.

I've got an idea for a wheeled cart to carry more than one module. Since the size of the next two modules will be approxmimatley the same width they can be stack one on top of the other. This will come later in the build.

Bernd

TT Rolling Stock Scratchbuild

While waiting for track supplies, such as PC ties and wooden ties, to lay track I started working on adding some rolling stock. I started with a caboose. So far I've got the frame built.

Bernd

Logging Engine Terminal track

Started laying track on the first module to be built (Logging Engine Terminal)




Bernd

Watching

I've always admired this plan and have been looking for a small layout for my On30 equipment in the house (as opposed to the train room). The layout I've considered is the Gum Stump and Snowshoe that you are also working on. (Great minds and all that.)

Both are deeper than I want in the living room so been looking to simplify the number of tracks. Maybe a single stall engine house and only one loading track. The trestle has to stay - very cool. As you progress, I would be interested in any thoughts you have.

Thanks!

@ Neil

Hi Neil,

I think you have a good idea there with the single stall engine house and only one loading track. Would definitely narrow the layout.  One thing I do regret is not making the top thicker so I could incorporate the trestle. But I don't want to start over so it's going to stay as is. 

Maybe a change to a smaller scale?    (just kidding)

Bernd

Hehe

Starting to sound like me. Nn3 might be an option! I'll send my cars your way. 

It seems that even an inch in TT scale would be a decent trestle - if you add another piece inside the frame it could be more. 

It might not be too late to "trestle"

For Bernd.

That is a pretty solid module frame you have there at 12" deep. Now just suppose:

1. you "notch"  the corner out where you want the trestle, then
2. you build a support "box under the "notch" to the same height as the 'notch" from the bottom of the module frame with a "stepped height"  stringer placed at the end of the notch and a longitidinal support for the length of the notch
3. then plate over the top of the notch and stringers with another piece of ply to give you a firm foundation for your trestle
4. Drill holes for yout trestle piers,
5. then glue scrap ply under your holes to allow the trestle piers to bottom out against something solid. This gives you a solid foundation at a known height below track level
6. build your trestle bents and glue in position when done
7. lay your trestle deck and track (hint - a ballasted deck type trestle would help comouflage any height mismatches during the build process).
8. (optional) There is nothing stopping you from notching the adjacent module and extending your trestle across the module joint and extending the length of the trestle - There are some tricks to this that ensure your rails don't open up at trestle top, but is should be able to be done.

Remember module frames don't all have to be the same height for the full length of the layout. have a look at this rather extreme example of a "notched module" with a +300 mm (+12") height difference. (construction "bare frames" photos are available for either here or to you privately if required) 

With a module frame depth of 12", you have plenty of "notch room" and also plenty of module sidewall strength to spare. Remember, we only have to hold up our tracks, trains and scenery, and, not bench press our own weight on the module frames.

For your consideration,     

The "Notch"

John,

I like that idea of notching the corner. Time to take a closer look at the module and see what kind of surgery I can preform on it.

Bernd

3 notching options for you

Hi Bernd,

you have 3 "notching" options:

1.  notch on the front only and leave the module end piece at full height for the full width of the module. (This has the advantage that it gives you a "solid" spot for your tracks to jump to the next module (as was done in my example above - you can see the black hinges attached to the module end frame of the notched module at high and lower levels to prevent sagging)
2. Notch out the most of the side wall and leave a "pier" on the end of the module end piece (this still gives you a solid foundation but is not as robust as #1 if heavily impacted (and it needn't be if care is taken when moving the module around).
3. If you notch this and the adjacent module, a drop in piece of trestle deck could be a way to span the module joints for a trestle that jumps modules. Make this pre-wired and hide the wires and plug behind the trestle bents. If everything else on the module tops is well glued down, there is nothing preventing you from rolling both modules on their side should it be necessary to disconnect this piece of track on the trestle to split your modules at some future time. 

For any of the options, you need to make sure that the other ends of these modules do not drop. If it does, then this will cause a hump at this module joint and will cause the track joints at this module junction to open up. If they open up far enough, then you WILL have derailment problems, especially if you are running small diameter wheels and fine flanges..See below illustration.

  Most of the modules on Corrimal are only 4" deep modules (apart from the module jont shown previously), and, we can use 1 hinge to hold the modules in place relative to each other. For your taller 12" modules, I think you may need to fasten your modules together both close to the top and bottom of your modules (say about 1" from the module upper and lower edges) to prevent any hogging at any of the module joints.

PS - Have you given any thought yet about how you are going to jump volts between your modules? And how you are going to get at what ever you use when/if you need to split your modules? A solid 12" deep module end wall might be a problem? 

Notch & Electrical Connections

I'll be using 12 volts DC and the Deltang R/C system for control. I really haven't given thought at this point as to connection between modules.

I did take a look at how to cut a notch at the end. I like the idea you present here leaving the end at the height it's at for possible track connection.

Bernd