Raphael

Just got the Rapido RDC, SP-10 version.

To open it: on a cradle, remove the coupler screw and pull the coupler box out. Repeat for both couplers. It all stayed together, which was nice.

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Approximately under the 3rd window on each side is a little plastic tab in the outer shell (see position indicated in the next picture). You'll need to pry the shell apart at that point, on all 4 sides. With a 5th hand, pull on extremities. I used the trick of leaving a coupler screw and pulling on that with some pliers, but after a while I realized it was almost easier to pull and rock the stair cases out of the front and back shells, very slowly and and extra careful not to break them.

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Once I got the shell out, I marked the front end immediately, but in fact it's not needed: in the outer shell casing there's a big F and R inside the roof, and on the mother board you can see FoF and FoR printed. Also as explained in the Rapido doc, the front is the one with the 5 windows and the rear with the 6 windows.

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On the list last picture you can see the little plastic tabs in the outer shell:

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Ralf~
[ web site ]

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Just another Scale Modeler Ron Pare

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I am giving away a Creality 20w laser on my birthday! One requirement is you will need to be a member of my @RonPare patreon.

Ron Pare
A guy on Youtube, who  blogs here, and is a creator of some  reviews
Waterfront 3x5 TOMA module, Join the Group
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Raphael

Thanks for the motor picture

I didn't go that far, I was mostly concerned pointing out where the outer shell tabs are exactly.

I'll be adding an ESU Powerk-Pack and it looks like it might nicely fit at the top.

Ralf~
[ web site ]

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fmilhaupt

Thanks, Ralf and Ron!

Thanks for the photos!

I was especially interested in how the drive was set up.

Fritz Milhaupt - DCC Wrangler and Webmaster, Operations Road Show
https://www.operationsroadshow.com
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Dave K skiloff

Good stuff

When I work up my nerve, I'll add some people into mine to look a little more like it gets used.

Dave
Playing around in HO and N scale since 1976

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Just another Scale Modeler Ron Pare

It is real fiddley to remove

It is real fiddley to remove the zip ties and fish the wire loose to get to the bottom layer.

But since I have the photo handy still, it was an easy share. Glad to contribute.

I am giving away a Creality 20w laser on my birthday! One requirement is you will need to be a member of my @RonPare patreon.

Ron Pare
A guy on Youtube, who  blogs here, and is a creator of some  reviews
Waterfront 3x5 TOMA module, Join the Group
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Reply 0
smadanek

The full width pilot?

Has anyone managed to get the full width pilot on? Looks rather fussy to me.

Aftermarket 3 D print might be helpful.

Ken Adams
Walnut Creek, California
Getting too old to  remember all this stuff.... Now Officially a COG (and I've forgotten what that means too...)
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MikeHughes

Anyone else having issues with lights?

My headlights and interior lights work but that’s it.  No classification, gyra or ditch lights (function F9, F10 and F6). I pulled the shell off (very finicky operation) to be sure they are installed, and the manual says to remove shell if you’re going to drill shell to see gyra and ditch lights.  I wanted to install passengers regardless. The LEDs appear to be installed but don’t work.

Can’t get it to take a 4 digit address either. My booster works fine in every other locomotive, including other Rapidos.  I must have done a reset 20 times (loading CV 8 with 8 - no joy)

Curious if anyone else has these issues and managed to solve them.  I sent an email to Rapido support but have never heard back on past support requests.

Update, classification lights mysteriously now work after doing yet another reset, but this time with a Digitrax DT400R throttle versus new DT602R.  Still no joy on Gyralight or Ditch Lights which I would  really like to have on our Ski Train.

Thanks,

Mike

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Deemiorgos

Mike, Welcome to the world of

Mike,

Welcome to the world of Rapido QC issues. I hope you get it sorted out.

I have never had any luck with any of their products; always something to tweak, repair, or simply doesn't work.

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PRR K4

Did you try?

..a decoder reset. I have a RDC which has gone back to Rapido 3 times because one powered truck stops working. The last trip back, Rapido did a decoder reset found nothing else and sent it back in working order. Three months later same thing. I use DecoderPro so what the heck, I did a decoder reset and voila a working RDC. For how long I don’t know but a decoder reset maybe worth a try before sending it back which for me cost about $35 each trip via USPS.

Good luck!

PRR K4 Jack

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MikeHughes

Maybe they’re just too complex, lol.

I’ve had a couple of people in shops who work on DCC pretty much full time indicate that the ESU locksound decoders are (politely translated) “best to be avoided”.  

I’ve noticed with the few I own that they are a bugger to program addresses on, but I haven’t yet gotten one of their Locksound boosters due to the cost and the need for a computer just to use the thing.  It seems silly to need a $100+ booster AND a computer just for their decoders, when I already have a booster.  

Frankly the need for any booster, IMHO, ought to make a decoder manufacturer lose their NMRA DCC status.

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Dave K skiloff

Well

My entire roster is LokSound and I bought the LokProgrammer as a result and not only does it make programming super easy, I can also use it to run a small layout without any DCC system.  For a small layout, the price of the LokProgrammer is better than any DCC system - but you can only run one engine (or consist) at a time.

Dave
Playing around in HO and N scale since 1976

Reply 0
MikeHughes

Latest Update on RDC Lightboards

Rapido had planned to ship me a replacement, but their internal testing indicated that they still aren’t right so the replacement batch has been sent back to the manufacturer to be put right. 

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