John Caffarelli johncaff22

Interest in my previous post on backdrops was high, with several folks asking how I achieved my results. As I have several lengths of backdrops to paint, I decided to do a brief photo tutorial that runs through my method and explains more thoroughly each step of the process and what I am trying to achieve. I do want to give credit where it is due, and praise the work of many modelers but specifically Joe Fugate who's technique heavily influenced and guides mine. Despite this, I take a slightly different approach as any of us do with any technique to fit our railroad's needs.

Union Pacific Cascade Sub
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John Caffarelli johncaff22

Prep and Background Work

Painting is most definitely a daunting task to take on and so my goal with painting my backdrops is to achieve a simplicity that tricks the eye if it happens to wander far enough through my Douglas Fir forests. My goal is to add depth, not to realistically paint specific vistas or scenes. I can get away with this due to my narrow and tight benchwork. My railroad is vary much an "in your face," intense, mountain railroading experience, and busy, intricate backdrops would be overwhelming for the viewer in my case.

 

My focus, therefore, is only on color and shape. If I can accurately portray the "feel" of an area without getting the "look" with just color and shape, I not only save time and resources, but I can focus on using other scenery methods to achieve the look with my backdrops in support. Also, I want to paint a minimal amount, just offering, as Bob Ross would say, "indications" of distant hills, trees, and haze. Enough talking, let's get painting.

 

 

 

For this guide, I will be focusing on an area of backdrop above between Tunnel 18 and Tunnel 17. In reality Tunnel 18 will be extended almost to where the "59.0" marker is, pushing tunnel 17 around the bend just a bit. This area, as reflected on the plan and also in reality is dense with trees, however the separation between the two tunnels offer a perfect point for a slight opening in the trees to look out and give size, a perfect juxtaposition with the tunnels and trees.

 

As I have mentioned before, I am modeling a gray, rainy day typical of the region, and my base sky color is aptly called "Evaporation." I apply two coats and allow it to dry completely before I begin painting. 

 

 

It can be difficult to see, but before I put paint on the backdrop I have lightly penciled in 4 distinct areas of focus and lines I need to pay attention to. First, I draw in where my foam scenery terrain with go, paying attention to tunnel location. Next I draw the tops of my immediate hills, then my middle ground hills, and finally in the valleys, the very distant hills.

 

 

I mentioned in my other post on backdrops that my palette is very limited and I try to only use 3 colors: a base green, blue, and my sky color. Utilizing ones sky color is paramount as it allows the colors to blend with each seamlessly. In addition, I use only 3 brushes and for a majority of my painting only 2. Simplifying before actually painting helps when the process becomes more complicated.

 

Begin with painting the smallest hills, the most distant. For this I start with a glob of my sky color and then add dabs of blue until the color is dark enough. Before I apply it to the backdrop, I add just a hint of green. It makes a huge difference, even if the color looks the same on the palette. Then using my smallest brush, I apply the paint over the pencil line in short vertical dabs. This creates the indication of distant treetops.

 

 

 

Something to note, I mix my colors on the palette as I got with my brush to create natural variation. Up close the differences look dramatic and frankly awful, but at normal viewing distances these subtle variations give depth to the hill, showing the various layers of trees and land formations. Remember, the pencil lines were merely guideline, not areas to fill in exactly, let the hill take on the most appealing shape when paint actually starts to fly.

 

 

It is easy to see the variation of the hills and how the various colors reveal themselves and add to the painting naturally.

 

The next posts will deal with more detailed work.

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John Caffarelli johncaff22

Mid Range Hills to Final

 

Next we will move on to our mid range of hills and then to the nearest. These are done similarly to our most distant hills, but each is approached slightly differently. 

 

Our mid range hills are tricky in that what color we choose will determine the distance at which the hill is away. The lighter it is, the further away the hill is, the smaller our detailed treetops. Mismatching the scale indicated by color with the scale of our trees would lead to an unrealistic looking hill, something the eye would catch. 

 

I mixed the color with a 70/30 ratio of blue to green and then added sky color to lighten it appropriately. I then, taking my medium sized brush dabbed the color into the designated area, just looking to fill in, or "block" in color. Again, I allowed for variation.

 

 

Note that my focus is to establish color and a general feel for the shape of the hill, not a detailed silhouette just yet. The next step focuses on that. First establish color and a feel for the distance of the hill.

 

I then go back across the top of the hill with my smallest brush adding here and there little tree details. Many, many vertical lines will do, with the occasional branch to add detail. Remember these are distant hills and we only want to imply the many trees which cover them, not paint each one.

 

 

The foreground layer is similar to the mid range: establish a color and then work in a sufficient amount of detail. I used a 50/50 mix of green and blue with a hint of sky color. Again a filled in the main color, then went back and added tree detail. The series of photos illustrate this process. Experiment with tree shapes that look most realistic and how they complement each other. It is important to remember that a specific tree will not make or break the backdrop, but the composition of them all.

 

 

  Color added in vertical strokes with large brush. Notice and work for subtle variation.

 

 

Detailed shot working left to right. Notice the individual trees are ugly, but they are beginning to give the appearance of a forest. Now is time to work with shape and different heights of trees.  Vertical lines are trunks awaiting more foliage. I put them in first to get an idea of where I want trees to stand out.

 

 

The final backdrop. Took about 2 hours to complete, but well worth the effort in my opinion. I might in the future, play around with a few highlights on some of the trees and maybe adjust some colors, but this for now is complete.

 

I hope this is helpful, again this is my take on many other modelers and artists methods and I hope, if not all, bits and pieces were helpful. Feel free to ask any questions and thank you for your interest. 

 

Happy Painting!

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Bernd

Nice Job

John,

Nice SBS. You must have studied under Bob Ross.

Bernd

New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds - NCSWIC

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Chuck Geiger

Grand Work

Nice job - "Happy little tree right there". 

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splitrock323

Very nice

Thank you for showing us your technique. Very understated yet has detail to accent the horizon. 

Thomas W. Gasior MMR

Modeling northern Minnesota iron ore line in HO.

YouTube: Splitrock323      Facebook: The Splitrock Mining Company layout

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pierre52

So what changes

...would you make for a sunny summer day? I presume the color ranges would change quite a lot.

Thanks for posting that it is most helpful.

Peter

The Redwood Sub

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anteaum2666

Great Look

Hi John,

I follow Dave Frary's methods which are similar, but a bit more complicated.  Your method is simpler, has a great result, and uses cheaper paints too!  I'm going to give it a try on my next backdrop.  Thanks!

Michael - Superintendent and Chief Engineer
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joef

Great stuff

Love to see demo threads like this, they're great. My only change these days would be to use artist acrylics rather than craft acrylics. I'm not sure how colorfast cheap acrylics are. Artist acrylics are made for paintings intended to last 100 years and beyond, but cheap craft acrylics are primarily for things like kids posters and such that have a lifetime of a few weeks or months. Being colorfast is not a concern, that's why they're so cheap.

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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ChiloquinRuss

Thanks teach!

OK I think even I can make this work.  Thanks again for sharing your methods.  I appreciate it.   Russ

http://trainmtn.org/tmrr/index.shtml  Worlds largest outdoor hobby railroad 1/8th scale 37 miles of track on 2,200 acres
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John Caffarelli johncaff22

Response

Glad to see the method is well received!!! I hope it can work for many.

 

Peter... For representing a sunny day, the major difference is going to be how light changes the color and also the shadows. For example, with an overcast day like mine light is diffused so much shadow and direction of light source are not a massive concern. At Cascade Summit I want to work with some clouds breaking apart and sun shining through so it will be a concern then. I will focus on where the sun is relative to the distant hills and trees and if it was coming from the left as one is looking at the backdrop, I would make sure my highlights would be consistently on the left side of the trees, etc. Also shadows would be cast to the right. Little details like that which our eyes are used to seeing will improve the appearance of a simple painting.

Michael... Give it a try and let me know how it works!

Joe... I will see how the craft acrylics hold up over time. This being my first endeavor into backdrop painting, I was focusing mainly on technique and will refine the materials as I go along. Still almost 100 ft of hills to paint so I definitely see myself making a switch over to better paints, and even some nicer brushes as I hone in exactly how I will proceed with painting going forward.

Again, Happy Painting and Happy Modeling!

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ChiloquinRuss

Paint parts numbers?

Could you please also include the manufacturers part number for the specific colors?  Thanks.  Russ

http://trainmtn.org/tmrr/index.shtml  Worlds largest outdoor hobby railroad 1/8th scale 37 miles of track on 2,200 acres
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Modeltruckshop

Nice job.

 You make it look simple.  The color choices look convincing enough, I like the foggy distant trees etc...  Thanks for sharing.

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John Caffarelli johncaff22

Part Numbers

Russ, just left home for spring semester of school, so unable to give you those specific numbers. When searching for paints I looked for a natural looking green which turned out to be "Crocodile Green" for that particular brand, and then just a standard blue. In the future, as Joe mentioned, I will flip over to higher quality paints when I'm fully satisfied with my technique for the larger, more intricate scenes after these small "test" sections.  My sky color is a Behr paint from Home Depot called "Evaporation." Sorry I couldn't be of more help in terms of specifics.

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ChiloquinRuss

Behr paint colors

I found these numbers after using Behrs terrible website:

Evaporation BEHR N450-1
Crocodile Green BEHR 380F-7
True Blue BEHR 5C12-3

The last one True Blue evidently is no longer available.  Michaels Crafts has a True Blue that is similar.  Tuesday I'm going into Home Depot to play with their color match system to see what we can come up with.  This is going to be quite a journey for me.  The last background I did was some years ago and was all done with rattle cans.  It also was never intended to stand out or add that much to the scene.  Russ

http://trainmtn.org/tmrr/index.shtml  Worlds largest outdoor hobby railroad 1/8th scale 37 miles of track on 2,200 acres
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John Caffarelli johncaff22

Paint Correction

Only the Evaporation is Behr. The green and blue I obtained from Hobby Lobby. 

Have fun painting! Would love to see results!

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ChagaChooChoo

craft acrylic durability

Joe- Don't know if this still holds true, but my wife painted a scene our mailbox a few years ago and it's still fine - not faded and not cracked even though it faces due south, getting full sun, and enduring Buffalo NY winters.  Just the cheapie craft acrylics.  Overcoated with clear acrylic.  

Just my 1.1 cents.  (That's 2 cents, after taxes.)

Kevin

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joef

An overcoat makes a big difference

Quote:

Just the cheapie craft acrylics. Overcoated with clear acrylic.

Craft acrylics overcoated with a higher quality clear acrylic makes a big difference. It's the uncoated craft acrylics that will be a lot more susceptible to fading.

So if you're going to use craft acrylics, overcoat it with a higher quality matte clear coat on your backdrop or scenery, for example. That will make it a lot more colorfast and less susceptible to fading from the UV in the lights. Fluorescents tend to have the most UV, followed by LEDs and finally incandescents.

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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Jim Marlett

UV and Paint

Actually, most LEDs have very low UV radiation. http://www.usailighting.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/1/2753ce9f7bb62f5acbcc854942e4b161/misc/vangogh_bedrogi.pdf

Has anyone actually experienced craft acrylics fading indoors? I suppose it depends on the actual pigments in the paints, and some are more fade resistant than others, but I would think it would take a very long time for any noticeable difference indoors even under fluorescent light.

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