Connection

Depends on how much you are planning to move them.

1.  Just lay track across the joints and then cut them when and if you have to move them.

2.  Lay track up to the joint, use alignment pins and sleeves to assure alignment.

3.  Lay ties up to the joint and leave a short gap in the rails, then use a very short (1-2") piece of rail to bridge the gap.

4.  Lay track to some standard  distance from the joint an use a short piece of track (a piece of flex track or sectional track) to bridge the gap and joint.

To attach them you can use clamps, bolts through holes in the end plates, pins and alignment sleeves, or a keyed slot.

My module recommendations

I don't have the tools or the space to build my modules so I buy mine from one of the MRH advertisers http://www.modelrailroadbenchwork.com.Very affordable and easy to put together. They are shipped in kit form. I can't say enough good things about them.

For bus connectors you might want to look at the anderson powerpole connectors. I recommend the special crimper that is made for these. It works perfect every time.                                         https://powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpole-connectors-30amp-bonded​

To connect the track from one module to the next I definitely recommend the gapmasters. Easy to install and they work great.    ; http://Americantieandtimber.com/4.html

I also use Berrett Hill switch controllers, ads in MRH Magazine.

There's a lot of information about these products, just Google them.

I don't have any affiliation with these companies I just use their products. As a novice model railroader the products were easy to use and worked well for me. Anyway, that's my two cents, I hope it helps.

Happy modeling

Joe

CSX, FCEN

​

"How would you "connect" the

   As Dave H said you can use different methods depending on  how often you plan to move the layout. A sectional exhibition layout would need an easier way to connect and set up than a home layout that might only move once or twice. For a home layout the sections can just be bolted together and the bus wire run thru them with wire nuts at the joints while a show layout would likely want some plug in type wire connectors. Same for the track, a home layout could just be re-set up with rail joiners at the joints as everything is bolted back together while a show layout might want something like gapmasters to deter transport damage.. I'd make a rough sketch of the layout sections and it's planned use then post it for more suggestions( there's also backdrops, lighting, DCC control wiring, etc. to consider......DaveB

Options

2x8 modules will have issues moving through doorways, I would break them down to 2x4 modules. Free-mo standards are great for module connections that are durable and last. Anderson power poles are a pain to install but work great for electrical connections! Use 14 gauge wire for buses. I like 18 gauge doorbell wire for feeders. I prefer 2" rails connecting modules with the BNM set up but most people like butt joints. Whatever you use, precision is key to succeeding. As for support, my modules are built to rest on 2x2 legs, but at home sit on a shelf supported by 20" metal brackets that are mounted to wall studs at 16" O.C. I can send you more info if you like along with things to avoid.I build my modules like battleships!

Free Mo

http://www.free-mo.org/standard

Butt Joints

http://www.americantieandtimber.com/

End Tie Plates with Rail Connections

http://www.bnm-hobbies.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=20_21

-Sean Murphy

drawings for lightweight construction

My friend Marshall Stull has a nice set of drawings online at

http://smallmr.com/wordpress/building-a-free-mo-module/

This is a four-foot module with legs, intended for HO Free-Mo. I plan to build a six-foot version, since I plan to move it only on rare occasions. You can build whatever you want on top, any scale and any track plan.

As someone else said, a key factor is whether you're building it to be portable (several times a year) or movable (once every five or ten years.) If the latter I would recommend wall brackets rather than legs.

sectional layout

I am building a sectional layout re- using a lot of my Free-mo module materials, especially the foam scenery landforms but with stronger (1x4's ala Allagash) framing. I re-used the folding legs with adjustable feet after cutting 4 inches off the height. The section endplates are clamped and drilled together for 5/16" inch bolts and wingnuts with fender washers both ends. I used large sheets of corrugated cardboard (appliance size sheets) to do my laying out then when satisfied with it I transferred it to the 3/4" plywood sub-roadbed. I have some cork roadbed for HO and N and some track and turnouts to begin laying C83 mains and C70 secondary track. Every week I am seeing some progress. John Colley, Sonoma, CA

Methods

This is the method I use to connect my modules together, from Kam Konnect, perfect alignment every time, no short lengths of tracks or rail joiners needed, and still very lightweight and portable.

Kam Konnect

Datum?

Dear ??? (Moe)

Is the surface shown the sub-roadbed, IE the track is laid virtually directly on top of the "table" shown,

or is there some form of riser-system used to accomodate "under-track earthworks"?

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

More about Kam Konnect

@ Joe,

 The spindle hole is also accessible from below.

@ Prof - check out their portable layouts  online.  

You build whatever you want on top.  The selling point is the strong and 100% accurate joints. In one of their videos they assemble an N-scale layout while the train is running toward each new module.  And they do come with a price.

Regards,

Dave

Kam Konnect hole

Joe, It's possible to drill the hole all the way through to the bottom side and access the lock from the bottom, if the top gets covered up with scenery. I saw a display HOn3 layout built with the shadow box style, and helped the builder set it up at a show, and he accessed his Kam locks from underneath with the 5/16 Allen wrench attached to a 3/8 ratchet handle which worked very well.

Datum

Prof Klyzir, The module in that picture is intended for flat land scenery, and the roadbed would be laid directly on the table top. There are drop down modules available, which I will try to post a picture of here, that allow for raised up roadbed with bridge scenes, piers, waterfronts, etc. I have just built four of those modules for myself with two different levels of drop down. I know the Kam Konnect people personally, so I have the advantage of being able to buy just parts from them directly at the research and development facility to assemble myself. 

TOMA construction methods... connecting sections

1/4-20 screws and T-nuts are an ideal way to connect layout sections securely.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman-Group-2-Count-1-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Standard-SAE-3-Prong-Tee-Nuts/3012529 

Before the track is laid all modules can be connected as a continuous unit.  This makes a secure platform.

This video from M.C. Fujiwara shows how to lay the track, then cut it for module interface. 

Cascade Subdivision

Would Marc's old layout solution help you? He used his own type of domino construction.

http://macrodyn.com/ldsig/wiki/index.php?title=Cascade_Subdivision_-_N_-_Mark_Lestico

​His new HO layout is a bit more simplistic in some ways and meets a different set of desires, but has many great qualities.

http://macrodyn.com/ldsig/wiki/index.php?title=The_Port_of_Long_Beach_Subdivision_-_HO_-_Mark_Lestico

I am struggling with the idea of a modular layout to fill my garage. I tore down my layout of over 10 years in 2014 in hopes to rebuild but have yet to settle on the best approach. Trust me when I say the decision would have been made some time ago, but many aspects of life came along to restrain me. That could have been a good thing. 

I don't think there is a right answer for the best approach to benchwork as you don't discover the drawbacks until you are stricken with the need to move or modify. So think ahead.

I would not relyon...

... T Nuts for a layout that is put up and taken down a lot like an exhibition layout. I had them on a layout in Australia and they were forever failing and sometimes failed so bad we couldn't get the bolt in or out! we ended up going back to plain old nuts and bolts!

If you do decide to use T Nuts at least buy the screw in types rather than those with the little pins.

The O.P. needs to get back to us with more info.

Is this a sectional layout to be taken to train shows or a home layout that will be put together and stay together for years before it needs to be moved?  The answer to that question will largely determine which way to go.  He does not need some expensive lock system if the layout is going to be built and left in one place for the next 10 years.  He does not need any sort of joiner tack if the layout is going to be permanent once built, just run the track right across the joint and then if he moves 10 years down the road, go in and cut the rails between the sections and take it out.

If it is going to be taken apart for shows, it needs to be much more portable with better connectors to allow for assembly and disassembly.