Photos and more details

My first 2 modules are 2' x 8'. These sizes work well for my room dimensions and give a good sized area to work with. I built an A Frame rotisserie for working on the modules because I think it will make working on the bottom of the module much easier.

I'll probably work on the modules every now then since the weather is starting to cool down in Arizona and I also have a couple old cars I like to work on when it's nice in the garage.

 ​

Materials for building the modules. One 4' x 8' 11/32 ply cut down the middle, six 8' 1x3's, a bottle of Titebond, some finish nails and drywall screws.

Two modules framed up.  The cross braces were put in place temporary with drywall screws until I know where they need to be permanently located.

Two pieces of 1" foam glued to one module, the second module being fitted for a diorama I was building but decided to use it in my layout.

Module cut for the diorama including the river bed.  I glued extensions onto the module frame to accommodate the river bed.

Cross braces in place to support the diorama.

Diorama fit and the cross braces adjusted for height.

 ​

Foam added and everything glued permanently in place and weighted down until the glue is cured.

 ​

An image of the module track plan up and I'm starting to layout the track.  The Double Crossover is a Walthers/Shinohara piece and the rest is Atlas flex track and Customline turnouts.

The track cut to size. ​

The module rotisserie.

Roadbed glued down and sanded it flat. I will install the track for the roadbed shown and then finish the rest of the roadbed and track once that is in place.

I bought some 1/8" and 1/16" cork at Staples. I am going to try and use this to create buried track near my industries.

Keep it going!

Good start!  Keep us posted on the progress.

Joe

First model railroad project.

Nice organized and neat work place. Looks like a well thought out project. Where in Arizona are you?

The rotisserie idea.....

.....in an interesting concept. I like it. My small switching layout is light weight. I used 1/2" plywood framed with 1x3s and topped with 1" foam. It rests on table and I can put it on it's side to work on wiring.

the rotisserie

     Don't over estimate the time one spends under a layout, a 2 by 8 module might require a half hour to wire then never need be to turned again. If one is not old and inflexible the work is pretty easy and probably not worth the time spent making and mounting a module to a rotisserie. To minimize the under the table work I'm just running the buss wire along the front of my layout so I can pull it down to solder on the feeders then push it back up out of sight......DaveB

Wiring

Nice start. I like the rotisserie idea. Sure looks to make wiring easier. 

Thanks, TIm!

Yes, I can see myself sitting in a chair to do the wiring. Not nearly so hard on the back.

Updates

Good start!  Keep us posted on the progress.

​Thanks, Joe!

I will do that! I'm sure I'll need some advice along the way. Hopefully experience modelers can help me out?

AZ

Nice organized and neat work place. Looks like a well thought out project. Where in Arizona are you?

Thanks jrobertson!  I still need to get the tile down on the floor. Once that is finished I can install my benchwork.  I live in Goodyear, AZ

More than one way

.....in an interesting concept. I like it. My small switching layout is light weight. I used 1/2" plywood framed with 1x3s and topped with 1" foam. It rests on table and I can put it on it's side to work on wiring.

Fiddler66, there's certainly more than one way to get things done. I do like tha fact that the modules can be maneuvered where a more traditional layout requires a guy to get under the benchwork.

Unknown

Don't over estimate the time one spends under a layout, a 2 by 8 module might require a half hour to wire then never need be to turned again. If one is not old and inflexible the work is pretty easy and probably not worth the time spent making and mounting a module to a rotisserie. To minimize the under the table work I'm just running the buss wire along the front of my layout so I can pull it down to solder on the feeders then push it back up out of sight......

Dave, I don't really have much of an idea how much time I'll be working on the bottom of the module.  I do plan on using Tortoise switch machines and a couple manual switches for the double crossover that will need mounting.  I would also like to power the frogs trough the Toroise switches. 

Very nice work!

That rotisserie is super-cool! I'm always impressed when people build their first layouts, and they look incredible, like it was their 100th. When are you coming over to build mine?

Thanks!

That rotisserie is super-cool! I'm always impressed when people build their first layouts, and they look incredible, like it was their 100th. When are you coming over to build mine?

Metrolink, there is so much great information available that people new to the hobby should be able to make some informed decisions. That being said, I know I will make mistakes and I am going to need some help along the way. Thanks for the nice comments!

For Steve,

Hi Steve,

That rotisserie can also be very useful for laying out above the board stuff as well, like building footprints, roads etc. There were very good reasons why the old-style draftsman's drawing board had an angled working surface 

It could also be useful for getting landscaping stuff to stick to cliff surfaces etc where the stuff you are attempting to be stick would most likely fall off if the baseboard was horizontal. 

I look forward to seeing how inventive you can be with your rotisserie, 

Good points

That rotisserie can also be very useful for laying out above the board stuff as well, like building footprints, roads etc. There were very good reasons why the old-style draftsman's drawing board had an angled working surface 

It could also be useful for getting landscaping stuff to stick to cliff surfaces etc where the stuff you are attempting to be stick would most likely fall off if the baseboard was horizontal.

​John, those are good points! I think my first use of the rotisserie after wiring will be for painting track.  I'll be able to rotate the module at about 75 degrees and spray the sides of the rail and get good coverage.  Like you said, there should be many opportunities to take advantage of it!

Rotisserie

is a great idea, thank you for posting it.  I think I am going to have to build one.  The only thing I will add are casters so it can be moved easier. 

casters

I think I am going to half to build one.  The only thing I will add are casters so it can be moved easier. 

Bill, casters are a good idea. I considered them but decided the rotisserie would move too much as I worked on it. Now in hindsight I should have done it with a set of locking wheels on each side.

Track and cork

I have my track all laid out and I've started adding cork to raise the ground level for the areas where I want buried track. I also made my first big mistake in not drilling holes for the tortoise machine throw wires before gluing the turnouts down.  I'll have to figure out how to recover from that.

The rotisserie is great. I had the module tilted at a 45 degree angle for installing the track at the upper right of the module and for installing all of the cork I have down. (I have to get more 3/16 cork from Staples, I ran out).  The rotisserie is definitely worth the $30 and a couple hours labor. I highly recommend building one for guys constructing modules!

 "I also made my first big

Being able to rotate the section should help with that problem. I'd drill a small hole at each end of the ties aligned with the center of the tie space you want the throw bar hole at. Then rotate the layout upside down and connect the two holes with a line then mark the center of the tie space , then set a router or RotoZip to the depth of the baseboard and cut the hole. If you don't have access to a router type tool or if the framing is in the way you could drill very carefully from the bottom with a drill but could have a problem damaging the throw bar when the drill breaks thru. A depth collar on the bit would be ideal in that situation.......DaveB

Great work!    

Great work!

tools

Being able to rotate the section should help with that problem. I'd drill a small hole at each end of the ties aligned with the center of the tie space you want the throw bar hole at. Then rotate the layout upside down and connect the two holes with a line then mark the center of the tie space , then set a router or RotoZip to the depth of the baseboard and cut the hole. If you don't have access to a router type tool or if the framing is in the way you could drill very carefully from the bottom with a drill but could have a problem damaging the throw bar when the drill breaks thru. A depth collar on the bit would be ideal in that situation

​Dave, I don't have a Rotozip, I can probably use a drill bit to slot the hole where I need to put it. The depth will be the tricky part going through 3/8 ply, 2" of foam and 3/16" roadbed without damaging the throws.

Thanks

Thanks, SD90!

"The depth will be the tricky

   If you can find a drill bit collar( they lock onto the bit with a set screw) that would act as a depth stop, or maybe you can chuck your bit so only 2 9/16" is sticking out and use the chuck as a stop? It might be easier to just remove the turnout if it can be done without damaging it? .........DaveB 

Curious

I am curious how you will solve this as I did the same thing and now trying to ignore the problem for a while until some intrepid soul gives some ideas a try. 

My first thought was to drill a pilot hole from above through to the bottom an measure the depth. A larger bit with some tape wrapped around it at the right length would keep me from drill up too far. 

A second idea was to offset the machine to the side of the throw and use a wire to act around a pivot point and the Tortouis wouldn't need to be under the switch.

Since my problem is in staging I also tried mounting some machines above the switches, facing down, to move the throw bars. This actually seems to work well but makes it hard to reach in and now I need indicators for the switch positions but probably should anyway. 

collar

Dave, I'm going to stop at the hardware store today and see if I can find a bit collar and a 4" long bit as small in diameter as I can find.  I thought about removing the turn outs, and they are only glued down in a couple places with a light film of chalk.  I'll probably need to cut gaps for the electrical anyway. But, being they are down and lined up nicely I hate to pull them up.