Hmmm...

Do you have a lot of cars either with plastic wheels, or new metal wheels which haven't had the chemical blackener polished off?  Both can be sources of gunk that will foul your locomotive wheels.  You may need to clean the car wheels too, since whatever's building up on them will shed onto the rails and get on the locomotive wheels.  DCC is a bit more sensitive to dirty track, so the problem may not be worse than before, just more noticeable.  You also could have had this issue developing for a long time, and it's finally manifesting itself now, which it would have with straight DC too.  Good luck.

Thanks Rob, I strictly use

Thanks Rob, I strictly use metal wheels on everything, and I believe most of them do not have the blackener on them, there are a few though. Using the DCC change over as a reference point, "before" when I had to clean my loco wheels you could see that they were visibly dirty. Now they look clean, but when I power wipe them on a clean  cloth, pretty good streaks of black transfer to the cloth, and of course they then run better. So,as you said DCC is more sensitive and this is what I am experiencing as I never had to clean them before unless they looked dirty. Now they get slightly "invisibly" dirty, perormance slightly suffers, they get cleaned and the streaks show up on the cloth. Makes sense!

Again, it is not a show stopper or even a source of frustration as they do stay clean for a very long time, it's just that I noticed a difference. Thanks for the input.

Steve

I don't think your wheels are getting dirty sooner.

I think it is that dcc is just more sensitive.  I suspect that if you had tried wiping your wheels in the past when you were running dc, that "clean looking" wheels would have left the black traces on the cleaning cloth.  It is just thta you didn't used to clean wheels until they were noticeably dirty.  Now with the more sensitive dcc, you need to clean them when ever performance seems to fall off whether they look dirty or not.

NO OX for your track

Steve - I'm a born again hard fan of a product called No OX for your track

After reading this thread : http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?t=111157&page=5  I'll post the exact content at the end of this to make it easier than looking through the whole thread for the No Ox.  I tried it last November for my garage layout. I have not had a chance to run trains much since, then but when I can,I can go out and run trains like the day I put it down.  No wiping, no cleaning before no  nothing.  My wheels are clean as that that day too.  No restarts on the sound engines- just smooth running!!!  I would like to add a Atlas vacaum car like Jeff S demo'ed a while back for an occasional dust pick up..  I'm sold!  I run all PK2 wheel on the rolling stock.  You can get No Ox through Walthers now.

Prior to doing the No Ox thing I did a good over all cleaning by wipping the whole layout with Mineral Spirits.

Steve

No-Ox

No Ox does work.  It's definitely worth a try.  If you've problem isn't any more severe than you've described above, that might just about cure it.

Thank you for the wealth of

Thank you for the wealth of info guys. Can't be any harm in trying the stuff. Will check my local electronics supply shop to see if they carry it. The small tube of it would be perfect. Still though, what about good old fashion dirt build up? Is this where the regular vacuming comes in?

Good ol Linn Wescot, he was the main player when I got into modelling so many years ago. I would read his stuff in awe. Memories.

Steve

Dirt

Yes indeed.  And don't underestimate how much the car wheels can contribute to the problem.  They collect then deposit dirt as well, so after you vacuum you'll want to clean the car wheels to stop the spread of the existing dirt they still carry.  After all the clean-up you should notice a marked improvement in how your railroad runs.

2 cents worth of experience

I run all steel wheels on my rolling stock and run a Walthers track cleaning car around my layout every few days -  http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/931-1752.  I also use my wet track cleaning car  http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/226-CMXHO (got it as an anniversary present!) with 90% alchol before open houses and once a month.  I went with steel wheels for two reasons: 1) I like the way that they sound; and 2.) I was having to clean my track more often (twice as often) when running plastic wheels.

I've tried "coatings" including transmission fluid, clipper oil, and specility products and they didn't seem to help much and caused traction problems on my 2.5% grades.  I now run a "dry" track (without coatings) in a temperature and humidity controlled train room and have very few problems.

I did have a problem one time where even after running my cleaning cars (both types) the track became dirty very quickly.  A friend of mine suggested that I check my rolling stock wheels, and sure enough they were very dirty - thus re-coating my track with crud after the cleaning.  I cleaned all of the wheels on my rolling stock and the problem hasn't reoccured.  I do check the rolling stock wheels from time to time and I do clean EVERYTHING before an open house.

Speaking of open houses, I've had the same problem three years in a row with track problems during extended running.  Even with everything clean to start with, after about 3-1/2 hours of constant running I start having problems - jerky operation fo the locos.  Upon examination I found that the locos were "oozing" lube out of their axles onto the wheels and transferring that to the track.  I've never lubed my locos, nor have I removed lube from the gearboxes as they come from the factory.  I've heard that some locos come "over lubed" from the factory and this would tend to support that fact.  Hope the info helps.

Rick

Well, opinion has it that I

Well, opinion has it that I should clean my rolling stock wheels, which I have NEVER done! So, in cleaning steel rolling stock wheels, do you  soak a rag and push the car back and forth or do you use a dremel with a soft brush attachment? Any thoughts would be appreciated. 

Sheesh, never ever  cleaned my wheels before , I am expecting that after I do this exercise I may never have to clean the track again based on previous performance!

Steve

Here's what I found

I found cleaning my track and wheels with rubbing alcohol left things too clean. Turn off the lights and watch your loco wheels spark on DCC as you're running. Each spark blasts the wheel and rail and micropits it, causing a fine black metal oxide powder buildup on the rails.

I ran across a chemist's analysis of the "black gunk" several years ago and it consisted of dust, metal oxide powder, and organic residue (plastic wheels, fingerprints, loco lubricants, lint).

I experimented with mineral spirits instead for cleaning the track and wheels and I have standardized on it instead of alcohol. If you don't try to get everything bone dry, but allow a slight residue from the mineral spirits to remain on the track and wheels, when you turn off the lights, you will notice the sparking is noticeably less. And the black gunk buildup takes longer, too.

I suspect what's happening is there's less blasting of the track and wheels, and thus less black metal oxide residue being formed.

Very interesting!

Joe,

I'll give the mineral spirits a try - it makes sense.  Thanks!

Rick

Okay, for $3.95 it's worth a shot

I just ordered 7 grams (2.25 teaspoons) of No-Ox-Id Special A off of Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110522971915&rvr_id=&crlp=1_263602_263622&UA=%3F*F%3F&GUID=320f34c91270a02681838343ffe07aa7&itemid=110522971915&ff4=263602_263622

Free shipping even.

No-Ox-Id

Jeff,

Thanks for the link - I just purchased a tube also.  It will be interesting to see how it effects traction as I do have some steep grades.  I'll post results once I've had time to see how it works (or doesn't work). I hope that you will do the same.

Rick

I have used mineral spirits

I have used mineral spirits forever cleaning my track and and loco wheels, maybe that's part of the reason it has run pretty good over the years. Although lately, as I am replacing all of my switches, I am using 600-800 grit sand paper as it polishes the track, this idea from one of Joes previous articles. This of course means the track is dry with no film. Some folks will swear sandpapaer is a no-no, but this does not scratch metal, it polishes. I made the mistake before using "bad" sandpaper causing scratches and many headaches years ago. Any thoughts in this thread on the sand paper polishing method? Will it do more harm than good?

After I clean the rolling stock wheels (today on a nice rainy Sunday afternoon, or watch Nascar) the layout should be darn near perfect. I am still going to try the no ox.

I have checked the running with the lights off and can say there were very few sparks, if any!. I did know that sparks cause pitting but was very interested to see what the residue material consisted of.

Steve

you can get 1500 and 3000

you can get 1500 and 3000 grit sanding film...it's what we used in the lab to polish crystal faces.  Microscopic finish!!!

Using mineral spirits on a

Using mineral spirits on a cork or a Cratex block does a nice job of cleaning track and eliminates scratching. 2000-grit sandpaper and other fine grades from 3M are available from stores that supply auto body shops.

Just a thought

Editor: Made link active! 

A two step method that keeps tracks clean for 6 + months

For many many years I have only cleaned my track 1 or 2 times a year or every 6 months using a product by the name Lectra-Motive Electronics Parts Cleaner made By CRC. This is only step 1 because this cleans the track of everything- grease, oil, dust, carbon residue, and Everything else. you can spray the rails but it goes 10 times farther if you use a clean piece of cork soaked in the cleaner and slide it down the rails followed by a clean rag wrapped around your finger tip. This completes step one.

DON'T run trains yet!! after cleaning there is one of 2 products that you need apply to the tracks for complete protection. First if you can find it is CRC 2-26 Multi-purpose Corrosion Inhibitor & Lubricant and if you can't find CRC-2-26 then look for CRC- 3-36 Industrial Grade Multi-purpose Lubricant & corrosion Inhibitor.

Both 2-26 & 3-36 are conductive and leave a coating on the tracks that just doesn't wear off for about 6-12 months.

You apply both 2-26 & 3-36 by using a cork pad glued to a piece of wood and soak the cork in the liquids & wipe the saturated cork around the track and allow to dry for 24 hours before running trains. once dry it leaves a dull grayish look to the rails.

use the  CRC lectra-Motive to clean the wheels of your trains by spraying on a paper towel and laying on a clean section of track and roll the cars across the paper towels.

Do the same with your Locos & afterward take a small paint brush and apply a lite coat to all the wheels on your loco while upside down or on their side and leave them off their wheels for 24 Hours. The next day they will have that same gray residue as the rails and will be dry. remember 24 Hours before running.

First time you run any loco on the track and every time after they will start moving at a much lower voltage then they every started at before.

Next try Joes trick and turn out the lights and you will not see a single spark or arc between wheels and track.

I built a Box Car with a wiper on the bottom and I spray a little CRC-3-36 on the pad about every 100-200 hrs of running time or once every 6-8 months to renew the protection and conductive nature and check the wheels now and then they tend to stay very clean as dirt just doesn't stick to them.

I buy CRC products at the local hardware store in the electrical and mechanical solvent Isles. they run around $9.00 per can and will do about 1500 feet of track per can.

This method costs a little more but I don't clean my track but once a year and my trains don't stall on the tracks do to dust or dirt and my wheels stay clean too.

Dan

There's also LPS-1

I used to operate on George Booth's layout until he had to tear it down.  He used a product called LPS-1 on his track. His web site users.frii.com/gbooth/Trains/ has a terrific discussion on the topic.  There are also some links to this article on some newsgroups and discussion boards.

Happy 4th of July to my fellow colonists!

Gunk

When you buy your track and look at the rail top under high magnification you will see that it is possibly as close to a perfect contact surface as possible because of the rolling manufacture process.

The WORST thing that you can do to clean your track is to use ANY abrasive block such as a Peco track rubber or any high count wet and dry paper.  These processes will have the same effect on the rail top as if you have been running your DCC for a few years in very dirty conditions and the resultant explosive pitting eroding it.

I was put onto the following method by a friend of mine several years ago after trying many things including old wives tales over the past fifty years.

I now use CRC 2-26.  All that you require to apply and to polish the rail is some cut off pieces of cork underlay and some small pieces of Masonite (maybe hardboard in US).

Now you can run to your hearts content.  You should not have to clean your track for at least three months, however you should keep up the vacuuming.

My layout is in my garage and it is not sealed against the wind and therefore a fair amount of dust gets blown in, but, a quick vacuume and I am up and running with very little electrical or dirty wheel problems.

I still can't believe how

I still can't believe how well the CRC 2-26 works! on top of the added performance factors it gives the rail a look that's more natural looking and IT looks like like real track. It takes that shinny silver look of nickle/silver track and gives it a dull grayish look much more like the rails you see while driving to work at the same time it improves the electrical properties 100%.

I can honestly say I haven't had a single engine stall anywhere on my main or in the yard with all the turnouts. Now yes all my rail is brand new and is in perfect condition.

I didn't run a single engine for 3 weeks and flipped on the power picked one of my mudhens and just took it through the wye to reverce it hooked up 8 cars and the caboose and headed up the 4% grade like it was free wheeling down hill.

I still can't remember where I first read about CRC 2-26 but I'm sure Glad I did. I think is was from a guy in in Austrailia on the the yahoo groups but if I could remember who it was I'd send him a free can.

Try some on your railroad and see what I'm talking about you may even send me a free can for the tip LOL

Dan

Also happy with CRC 2-26

I am also using CRC 2-26 on my layout for a while. I think I first read about it on the Digitrax-list on Yahoo.

Since january my yard have been used as a storage shelf because of a remodeling project in our house. Last monday I finally was able to clean the yard from all the stuff that had been stored on it. I just vacumed the tracks and ran a switch engine with no problems. There was no need for more CRC 2-26. I think the last application of the CRC was early last autumn.

The opsession with the boys on thuesday also went well. I did not see any stalling. so yes, I too would recommend this product.

BTW: happy Independence Day to all of you from the USA. And happy birthday to the norwegian Queen Sonja.

I think last

Track Cleaning

Several years ago I started using ATF, yes plain old Automatic Transmission Fluid on my track and after at least five years and no track cleaning I would say that it has proven to be a winner......and at $1.99 per quart it is a lifetime supply in one can......Jerry Ashley MMR

CRC 2-26

I'd like to give this a try, but so far have had no luck in finding it locally. It is available on the net, but a local purchase would be necessary. Very hard to get liquids shipped by mail now, if not impossible. Think they made it illegal. Does anyone know what stores in Canada sell this product?