I wouldn't use it for that purpose!

The New Bright train is probably the most amazing set I have ever seen. All of the lights and animation are just cool. It blows my mind to know that New Bright stopped manufacturing this set and no other manufacturer followed.

The one thing about this set, there are many delicate (perhaps, cheaply made) parts and actions. I have already tried one crazy repair to one of the animation functions with limited success. The complicated control system is probably limited and I wouldn't get too crazy trying to make it power too much track. I find that most visitors to my home comment about the cute Christmas train and that is about it... So, it is for me and my wife to enjoy.

There was a thread on here a couple of years ago regarding converting the train to DCC or something. I think someone had figured out how to power it with Arduno but still had not figured out the sounds. So, I am not sure what I will do when the day comes that I just can't keep it running.

These things get stupidly expensive on eBay. Have you ever seen the Reindeer Car manufactured for Dillards? That one car has gone for $400 before. There are still warehouses that have these hidden deep in dark corners. I bought a second train for parts, etc. for $50, that was a deal! When I asked about the controller, they were like, "yeah, we just threw that stuff away because we didn't think anyone would want it..."

And now I know how rare collectibles are made!

Discussion about DCC control for this train

It can be done

Rob-

That's a pretty good size temporary/movable layout. If you're going to build something that large I would consider it being a permanent layout. Then no worries of it needing to be stored. When it comes to building the layout there are many options, it all depends on the climate you live in and what materials would be best suited. 

Like building a layout in HO scale, there are many ways to approach it for G scale. For building a raised garden railroad lots of people use either green treated boards or composite decking material. Here's two pictures of what I built for my first layout. It's a temp one for me, we plan on building on acreage in the next year or two. You can always turn the temp layout into a permanent layout. 

As for track, if you're going to be using track power I recommend brass or stainless steel. The aluminum track is a poor conductor. Feel free to mix and match brand names of track. I've heard of people mixing stainless steel and brass track with great success. Like HO scale, you can even mix code sizes. Split Jaw rail joiners makes code conversion pieces.

On my current layout I use USA Trains and Aristocraft Code 332 brass track. It's a little bigger than scale track (think along the lines of code 100 in HO). Code 250 is correct scale (like code 83). But it all depends on your likes. In the future I'll be using code 250 stainless steel. 

I have the same New bright set. I have never tried hooking up the control unit to something else, but it sounds like you have the knowledge of how to do it. I like the DPDT switch idea to switch from the New Bright control system to a different control system.

My loop of track runs only about 94'. I only have one set of pickup wires and it works just fine. I'm running DCC with my stuff. 

One last thing, are there any Garden RR clubs in your area? If so get out and see what the club or members have. That will give you ideas. I belong to the Minnesota Garden Railway Society. I have seen members run New Bright stuff before for something fun and different. I think their stuff was battery operated and radio controlled. 

Hope this helps, and have fun!

Aluminum is the 4th best conductor for electricty

i don't know why anyone would say aluminum is a poor conductor. It's rated number 4 on the list of conductors. That's why they use it for house wiring, it's much cheaper than copper.

The top conductors are:

1 - Pure Silver, 2 - Copper, 3 - Pure Gold, 4 - Aluminum, followed by brass, zinc, nickle, iron and so on. Stainless Steel is number 11, not really good for trains outside.

I couldn't afford to use pure silver or gold on my outdoor layout so I used the next best thing cost wise, aluminum. 

Aluminum -- good conductor, but poor surface contact resistance

Aluminum is a great conductor, but aluminum oxide (the black stuff on the surface) is essentially an insulator, making for lousy electrical pickup from the rails to the wheels. And it oxidizes much faster than brass, which makes cleaning brass rail a picnic by comparison.

I'm using aluminum rail outdoors, but all my locos have on-board batteries.