Douglas Meyer

So I model the C&O in HO in the late summer early fall of 1943, in the New River Gorge.  As part of this I model Quinnimont WV.  As such i have a lot of C&O buildings most of which are laser cut kits  (thanks BTS) the issue is they all need to be painted in the C&O triple grey paint scheme.  Featuring three grey colors all in the green grey range.  I have back burnered the paint for a while now but it is holding me up.  And it has become more of an urgent issue as my Father volunteered to host an open house for his Division during a regional convention this fall.  So I have to actually make up my mind in the next week or two....

Like most railroads C&O folks have argued about the exact color(s) in question for years with out arriving at any particular agreement.  Now with the passing of Floquil and Polyscale this has just gotten worse.  So here I sit with a bunch of buildings that need to be painted.  Because of the paint scheme that the C&O used it will require airbrushing on color masking off and painting a second color and then brush painting a third color as it would take way to much masking.

The question is what color and brand of paint to use.  As I am building a,rather large layout I would like a paint that I will hopefully be able to get again in the future.  I have spent a fair amount of time lately looking at my options locally (Detroit area) and Testors MM acrylic is the only thing available around here for the most part with on store about a half hour away selling Vallejo.  But when I looked at the MM paint it appears that the color in the bottle is,not even close to the color on the chip.  I know paints dry different then they look wet but these are not even close.  This could be a problem as I expected that I will need to mix up a paint to come close as they need a hint of green in them.  It is one thing to mix paint to a formula that doesn't look much like the final dry color but it is harder to invent the formula this way.  I would have to guess and try a sample and then after it dries try a new sample as you can only judge the color when dry.  This could take a lot of tries and a whole lot of time.  Does anyone know if another brand such as Vallejo is closer to the color when wet?

Anyway I am disinclined to go with Testor. MM for this and other various reasons such as Vallejo using an eye dropper bottle.  so I am leaning towards Vallejo the question is where to get it.  I can get it about 30 miles away for about $3.30 each.  I looked online and Amazon is nuts they want about $6 each as they seam to Jake up the price for Prime eligible items to include the shipping cost that you pay a membership to get "free".  

So for those of you that have made the transition to non Floquil paint what is your practical experience?   How do you mix colors to match what you want,  what brand do you actually use (and why) and where do you get it.  And if you happen to model the C&O what the heck color do you use for your buildings?

Note I started a separate thread as I don't think this directly ties into Joe's topic about his paint guide and I don't want to mess up his topic.

-Doug M

Reply 0
TomO

Paint color

Paint unless you have an actual paint chip is a personal choice, IMO. I use the Vallejo Air and since they have no "dedicated" RR colors, I mix and match, to my satisfaction. I kept track of each mix on a card and when I was satisfied I added the formula  to the computer. Where to purchase? Try sponsors her at MRH 1st. I paid a year ago  under $2.50 a bottle from Scalehobbist.com as they were the least expensive product and shipping. I am just a happy consumer as the service was excellent. My LHS does not want more paint lines (and no Vallejo) so I need to use the on-line services. I gave up on Amazon Prime as I agree with you, IMO  they jacked up the prices to pay for the free shipping.

Enjoy the day

Tom

 

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Reply 0
joef

MRH Post-Floquil Acrylic Painting Guide?

I assume you have seen and read the MRH Post-Floquil Acrylic Painting Guide? It has a conversion mapping of 72 Floquil/Pollyscale colors to Testors Model Master, Vallejo ModelAir/GameAir, and Badger MODELflex colors. Plus you're always welcome to ask for some paint matching on some colors we did not list and we will give you an official answer of a matching formula.

Also, if you check out the links in the front of the book, you will get a list of links for places that sell these paints at a good discount.

In case you missed the links, here they are again ...

MRH Post-Floquil Acrylic Painting Guide

Links to places that sell these paints online at a discount ...

Places to purchase model paint online
 

ONLINE PRICING ANALYSIS

I've done some pricing analysis and here's the cost of these paints.

Model Master - list price: 3.69 per 0.5oz (14.8ml) - 25 cents/ml

  • ScaleHobbyist.com - 2.59 (30% off) - 18 cents/ml

Vallejo ModelAir/GameAir - list price 3.30 per 17ml (0.6oz) - 19 cents/ml

  • ScaleHobbyist.com - 2.69 (28% off) - 16 cents/ml

MicroLux (Micro-Mark repackaged Vallejo) - list price $7.35 per 2oz  (59ml) - 12 cents/ml

  • Note: Micro-Mark MicroLux only has 10 colors in the 2oz bottles, but they're a superb deal

Badger MODELflex - List price $4.25 per 1oz (29.6ml) - 15 cents/ml

  • MegaHobby.com - $3.83 (10% off) - 13 cents/ml

So the cheapest overall paint is MODELflex, but to brush paint it well, I recommend the Acrylic Varnish thickening trick in the MRH Acrylic Painting Guide.

I personally really like the Vallejo dropper bottles as a superb way to administer the paint. It avoids waste and the paint keeps forever since you never really open the paint to the air that much. The MRH guide tells how you can get inexpensive dropper bottles to repackage all your paint in dropper bottles if you wish.

Finally Testors Model Master is the easiest paint to find since it's available virtually everywhere.

Joe Fugate​
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Reply 0
Stottman

One thing that people miss

One thing that people miss when they go on the "The paint doesn't match" tirade is that prototype paint fades over time, and different brands, applied at different times will fade differently. 

That ignores that color photography (even modern digital) doesn't always show the real color. Old fashioned, manual camera with  negative/slide film? Even worse . 

Reply 0
Virginian and Lake Erie

Doug I would say unless you

Doug I would say unless you are color blind like me take a photo of one of the items and use that to match your paint to it. Also realize that paint will fade and weather over time and that in the 1940s lots of soot from coal stoves to locomotives would be coating most things. Also railroad structures would get a fair amount of dust applied from passing trains. One reason gray was chosen for a color was to minimize the effect of soot on the structure at least as far as houses were concerned. There were lots of gray houses in the 40s according to my wife's grandmother. Now to put it in perspective the area in question was northern WVa and the town had several rail lines and 13 different steel mills of various types and sizes that I can remember in the immediate vicinity, as well as lots of coal mines that produced high quality bituminous.

Reply 0
joef

Yes, match to photos

Color matching to photos is the key. Yes, all photo color varies, but then so does color with distance, color with time of day, color with overcast or sunlight, color with atmospheric conditions, color with age ... the list goes on and on. My contention has always been to get a photo taken outdoors that has the color nicely rendered in a way you like and feel looks natural. Then take that reference photo into your layout room under your layout lighting and match paint colors to the photo UNDER YOUR LAYOUT LIGHTING. The result will be colors that LOOK like they are from the outdoor photo you like when viewed under your layout lighting. The purists will say even that isn't "perfect" but to that I say - how else will you get something that LOOKS right on your layout under your layout lighting without actual paint chips to match to and a ton of expensive color and light rendering equipment? And once you have a photo with color you like, matching to it is insanely easy if you just match to it under your layout lighting because it will LOOK very similar to that photo. Besides, if you like the color, then who is to say you shouldn't do what you like? (Rule #1, It's my layout ...) The one major caveat to this is if you're colorblind ... I know of one modeler where all his colors had an unnatural green tint - only to learn he was colorblind and all green tones looked gray to him.

Joe Fugate​
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Reply 0
HN1951

C&O Wood Structure Colors

Doug....

We both know the furor that can be caused by yelling 'color' at any COHS meeting.  I generally paint with acrylics (mostly custom craft paint mixes) for wood structures and use photos under layout lighting when mixing up a color.  Now color photos from the 1940's are few and far between, but there is an option.  Supposedly the buildings at the C&O Heritage Center at Clifton Forge are painted to match paint chips. So you could use these to come close to something real.  There is also a house at Cass that is painted in the C&O color scheme, but finding photos might be tough. Finally, there is also a replica station along the Greenbrier (WV) rail-trail (I've forgotten where) that is painted to match the scheme as well but may not be entirely accurate.

Rick Gartrell

Rick G.
​C&O Hawks Nest Sub-division c. 1951

Reply 0
Douglas Meyer

Well the issue is after

Well the issue is after looking at MM by Testors all the various grey colors were radically lighter in the bottle then the chip on the rack indicates.  So the question is not how to know what color I want but how to get the paint to match.  I can mix paint reasonable well but the color in those bottles was so different then the dry color is supposed to be that I would have to just try a bunch of formulas and see what the results are when they dry.  As you can't look at the liquid paint and say that is to light or to dark or needs more green or whatever as the liquid looked nothing like the finished color is supposed to be.

I know paints dry different then they look when wet but these were radically different.  So much so that the light grey and the dark grey looked virtually the same and this is after shaking the daylights out of the bottle.  Is this "normal" for MM by Testors?  It was not that bad for Polyscale.  

So I guess the issue is how to tell what color you are going to end up with.

Any suggestions on how to work out the formula would be useful. As while I don't need to make every building identical they do need to look sorta close so I will need to be able to reproduce the color in the future for additional buildings.  

Of course with the huge number of grey paint options that Vallejo has (about 40 in Model Air not counting the other lines) there is a good chance I could find colors that work.  But that is an issue with determining what color is what as that would be over $150 in paint.  Is the color chart that Vallejo sells reasonable accurate?  

As for the color at the C&O as far as I know those are based upon the chips that were used to create the model paints the society used to sell and according to what was said a couple years ago at the conference they are not the correct color for the standard Grey's used in the 40's and 50's. So we still don't really know.... Still it could be worse I could model the Pennsy and have to figure out there black... er I mean green.

-Doug M

 

Reply 0
HN1951

Possible Vallejo Matches

Doug..

I found on another forum these ideas for possible matches for the C&O grey's:

C&O Dark Grey

Vallejo Game Color Cold Grey (Gris Frio) #72.050

 

C&O Medium Grey

Vallejo Game Color Stonewall Grey  (Gris Muralla)# 72.049

 

C&O Light Grey (2 possibilities)

Vallejo Game Color Ghost grey (Gris Fantasma) # 72.046

Vallejo Game Color Wolf Grey (Gris Lobo) # 72.047

Might be worth looking into.

Rick

 

Rick G.
​C&O Hawks Nest Sub-division c. 1951

Reply 0
joef

Do not recommend Vallejo Game Color

I would not recommend Vallejo Game Color - that's an extremely thick brush-only paint designed for hand-painting metal miniature figures. The pigment is more coarsely ground and Vallejo does not recommend them for airbrushing. Vallejo ModelAir/GameAir are much preferred since they're both airbrush AND hand-brush paints. Let me find the proper ModelAir/GameAir colors for you. I can also recommend the equivalents in Model Master and MODELflex.

Joe Fugate​
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Reply 0
joef

My recommendations for C&O depot colors

I think you can mostly use other colors from the existing MRH Acrylic Painting Guide book - but make sure and check the updates because there have been some errors in the original book.

C&O Depot dark grey (use SP Lark Lt Grey)

 

Model Master: MM 4886
     Vallejo: VMA 71.048
   MODELflex: 16-35

 

C&O Depot medium grey (Use Primer Gray)

 

Model Master: MM 4762
     
Vallejo: VMA 71.050
   
MODELflex: 16-12

 

C&O Depot light grey (equal parts MoPac Grey + Reefer White)

 

So the C&O Depot light grey is a new custom mix ...

Model Master
     Mix ...
1pt MM 4762
1pt MM 4873

Vallejo
     Mix ...
1pt VMA
71.046
1pt VMA 71.001

MODELflex
     Mix ...
1pt 16-12
1pt 16-02

Joe Fugate​
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Reply 0
Douglas Meyer

Thanks Joe I will give this a

Thanks Joe I will give this a try.  At worst that will give me a place to start.

-Doug M

Reply 0
ashcreek

Your saying that . . .

the downloaded  MRH Acrylic Painting Guide book  has mistakes also?

I already printed it out!!

Damn!!

Drew Toner

Chief / Sawyer, Ash Creek Lumber Co.

Reply 0
joef

The color charts have a few mistakes

The color charts have a few mistakes ... check the updates link in the front of the book against your print out to see what mistakes may remain in your copy. Printed it out? Obviously don't have a tablet do you? With a tablet, you don't need paper and you can mark up the pages on the tablet if you wish with notes, too. One couple hundred dollar tablet saves a ton of paper and ink, and you can search your doc library on your tablet too. Printing out a few eBooks and you'll pay for that tablet.

Joe Fugate​
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Douglas Meyer

Joe once again thank you.

Joe once again thank you.  Your colors are a very good match to the paint colors that BTS used.  That being said on my layout with my lighting and in my opinion based on various color photos in my possession those colors look a bit dark.  With the exception of the "dark grey" used for Windows and doors.   So I am currently experimenting with various Vallejo paint colors and mixes.

Obviously this is a subjective thing as noted elsewhere color is dependent on many things including the lighting and the eyes of the person viewing it.  And in this case we don't really have a good baseline to match the color two.  

I spent a couple hours going over all the color photos I have of the color in question. I recorded the page or source. And the date of the photo if known and the general appearance of the build (if the paint looked aged or in shadow or what have you) I then took all the grays I had and made a sample stick by priming a couple plastic strips about a foot long and an inch wide.  I painted an area about 3/4 x 1/2 " with each color along the edge of the strip leaving a 1/4" gape .  Writing the name below the color. I took these strips and compared them to each photo.  Recording the results.  I then had someone else's do the same thing.  I did this at my bench which is set up with the exact type of lightning my layout uses.  I compared them in the standard light and with my work light adding more light.  Recorded the whole mess.

I then took a couple of the best photos and asked a couple of other folks there opinion.  Included in this mess was a designer who picks colors on a regular basis and a retired syndicated cartoonist.

The conclusions while interesting where almost useless.  First off a couple of the photos where the same exact photo but from more than one book and they where so radically different that they where not even in the same general area many many shades darker.  But what was interesting is that many of the times the colors chosen where the same for the same photo.  But different between different photos.  And we are talking pretty radical differences.  The other thing is that the buildings aged and weathered but that didn't mean that the necessarily got lighter.  Some got older and darker but they all got more random.  To the point that a wall in good sunlight would match two to 4 different colors over the wall and even more in obvious weathered or shadowed locations. 

There was a small trend in that one of three different colors where pretty much the match for 80% of all the photos. 

So basically it is impossible to determine the "correct" color of a C&O station as we do not have a proven correct sample to match it to.  But at the same time I can pretty much choose the color I want as I can find a photo that will support almost any gray I choose.  So the rivet counters won't be a problem. 

Not I was just trying for a match to the medium gray.  The trim colors being a bit variable as they are contrasted against the body of the building.  A darker body color appeared to use a darker trim for instance.  

The only real observation I came away with was that in general the darker color was newer paint or the bottom of the building where water would effect the wood siding more or some areas that may have had mold.  Wood siding in the Appalachian mountains tends to develop water staining and or mold a lot.  The other observation is that in the older better photos the color was a lot more green then I expected.  And in some photos the building looked green or greenish brown more than grey.

That being said I painted an old Walthers station that looks like a C&O station in my best guess color (a mix) and was happy with it until I got it on the layout.  Looking at it on the layout in position I now think it is too dark.  I then placed it in location of various buildings that will be this color and concluded that it looks to dark.  This has me wondering if my layout is. Two dark.  It is lighted with CFLs spaced 24 to 32" on center (varies with the height above the bench work of the light fixture the higher the light the closer together).  I think I w try two more experiments I will add in some white to create  lighter color and paint a shed and I will take both buildings to a friend's layout (or two) and look at them in there light and see if they look to dark.  That will help me decide if my room is two dark.  I will be judging the light/darkness of the paint not the actual color as the lighting type will effect that.

Another experiment I may try if this continues long enough is to take the three best color photos (or the three I like best) and three or four color samples to the local division meeting and print out a simple form and conduct a survey.  The division usually has about 60 folks at it so I should be able to get 30+ votes.  I don't expect this to prove anything but I think it may be interesting.

Well I am still working on this and I am just about as confused as when I started but it has been interesting.  Kind of like it is interesting what a tornado does....

Maybe I should write this up as an article explaining to folks why they don't want to try and match a real world prototype color.  

-Doug M

Reply 0
JerryRGS

MRH Post-Floquil Acrylic Painting Guide Updates

Joe.

When you post these new recommendation colors, are they added to the Painting Guide?

If so, how often will the guide be updated?

 

Jerry

Reply 0
joef

Updating the guide

Keep in mind we also have a paperback version of the guide and we are trying to keep them in sync. I can envision a second edition once we have another 18 colors (enough to add an entire new spread). However, adding pages to the paperback guide will raise its cost slightly. In the meantime, if you find colors you want to recall in the updates, you can use Adobe Reader (PC and Mac), GoodReader (iPad / iPhone) or EasyPDF Reader (Android) to add annotations to the PDF. Kind of like margin notes in a hardcopy book.

Joe Fugate​
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JerryRGS

Updating the Guide

I should have been more clear. I don't expect the printed version to be updated. At least not until there are many pages to add. But I was asking about the digital version. Will it be updated with the recommendations you give in posts like this one. I know I can add notes. But only if I see the posts where you give new recommendations. Like maybe an update every 6-12 months.

Jerry

Reply 0
joef

Need a full spread

Quote:

I should have been more clear. I don't expect the printed version to be updated. At least not until there are many pages to add. But I was asking about the digital version. Will it be updated with the recommendations you give in posts like this one. I know I can add notes. But only if I see the posts where you give new recommendations. Like maybe an update every 6-12 months.

We need a full spread of new colors, and that's 18 more colors. Prior to that, we will rely on the updates links to give the additions. Once we get 18 more colors collected, then we will update both the PDF and the paperback. The intention is to keep them in sync. The PDF matches the print book for the most part at all times, otherwise everybody gets really confused really fast.

Just because you can change a PDF on a whim doesn't mean you should keep updating it over and over creating a version nightmare. We've found its better to just lock things down for a while, release updates, and then at some future point once enough updates have been collected, release a new edition. When we do that, both the PDF and the paper book will get a new edition.

Joe Fugate​
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joef

Oh yes ...

Oh yes, and any "rogue" update threads like this one that result in new colors added to the 72 already in the book, we will also copy those over to the update thread or official Q&A thread for the book so you don't need to go looking all over for them.

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Reply 0
JerryRGS

Thanks Joe.

Thanks Joe. That clarifies it much better.

 

Jerry

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