Advice needed on spraying Scalecoat II - I'm getting a slight grain effect vs a mirror finish

C , Fellows

There are some people who do not like Scale coat . I am among them , that said , I have used it and it is seeming a bit thick . Some fellows like the idea of a paint covering very well . Perhaps the use of primer would negate the need for a thick sort of paint.

I use about 25-30 pounds pressure for airbrushing . I do not think that is your problem. I suspect Scale coat is thick and pigmented enough that one coat will cover ,  sometimes more than enough. I suggest thinning the paint even more and doing a light dry coat . It may need done in two coats . This is a neat method as the effect may be changed by changing the colour a bit between coats. usually hood sides and shaded bits are a bit brighter than the sun exposed areas.

I recently saw a  foto in a PRINT magazine , okokokok I am busted . {the railroad press }.which had quite nice paint on a moderate aged deisel unit. The trucks and undercarrage were a rusty wash colour , the paint itself was quite clean .

I prefer Floquil for oil base paint . It seems to flatten out quite well and does not seem to gum up around details.

The next detail is decalling , I have learned { was taught ! } that decalling is done by painting  the area to be decalled with gloss paint , then decaling with water , then solvaset to allow the decal to snuggle details , repainting over the whole with gloss paint to hide the silvering of the decals , then finally painting over the whole with dullcoat.

Further in the days of yore , decals needed cut on angle at edges to hide the thickness of the decal a bit better. Whew , I don't do much of that anymore..

The number one thing you have to do when you paint Metals and Plastics is Clean and or wash the project first  because all Models have eighter mold release or oil on the surface even if you can't see it ! ! !

(1) Metal

Before painting a metal project you must clean it. If you soldered anything or there is any flux on the model you need to neutralize it. Another problem is oil from the gears or your fingers which need removing. To do this wash the metal with warm water and liquid detergent (Dawn Dish soap works best) scrub the fine details with an old tooth brush then rinse with clean water then blot dry with a lint free towel or cloth.

Next Prime metal Models to prevent the surface from Oxidation and to allow finish coat Paints to adhere to the surface or 6 months later the top coat will start peeling and chipping .

Non-ferrous metals needs a chromate primer and cellulose acetate or polyurethane varnish are good for white metal. For steel or tin plate use a general metal primer.

If you don’t clean and prime your model before painting the paint will not find an even surface to adhere to and the paint will ripple, crack, shrink and give an orange peel effect as well as not want to stick at all.

Never paint top coat paint on un-primed metal you will pretty much ruin a great looking model and turn a $500 Brass engine into a 50 cent piece of junk

Dan

Scale Coat I is for brass and other metals.  Scale Coat II is for plastics.  This might be the answer as I have only used II. I know there are folks who use either interchangeably though.  Have you sent Weaver an e mail? I know they are good at getting back to folks.  I do like Scale Coat as in gives me the best looking factory finish but is a real bear to strip once it is on.  The other thing I found is that once you starting using it, especially when you thin it, it starts to dry even with the lid on. 

Steve

in the can or jar is to turn the container upside down with the lid on tight for storage after use.  The air in the jar will go to the top (bottom) and whne you turn it over, you will find nice fresh paint unless the air in the jar hamanaged to dry it all the way through.

Dan's prep comments are very good.

A slightly grainy finish -- does it look like an orange peel? -- suggests to me you might have used too much air, too much paint, and had some paint dry before it hit the surface of the model. Can you post a photo?

Scalecoat and Scalecoat II, when fresh, can thin as much as 50/50 paint/thinner and should spray well around 15 to 20 psi, so it sounds like you used extra pressure to push a thick mixture through the airbrush.

Humidity can throw off the thinning ratios and pressure needed, so you might want to practice on scrap brass to see what works before spraying the locomotive.

I agree with Joe.  You should thin at least 60/40, and spray at 20psi or less.  My experience with Scalecoat II is it usually needs two light to moderate coats vs one heavy coat.  Red is always tricky, especially with SC.  I mostly use Scalecoat for my models because of the gloss finish (ready to decal).  SC is definitely finikier to use than Floquill.  I'm going to experiment with SC drying additive next time.  One gripe with SC is it takes at least 24 hours to dry enough to handle, preferably 48, whereas floquill or the enamels can be handled the same day.

Mike

Mike some guys I know of actually baked SCII - you have to bake SCI for those that don't know. They do it at lower temps 130-140 for about 90 minutes or better and swear buy it.  Two reasons I never tried it 1) Terrified of putting plastic in the oven even at those temps (I know someone from Phoenix is going to time chime in here) and 2) I would never put in the house oven (even if could get away with it).

Steve

Try putting it in your attic if you have one.  Mine gets damn hot when the sun's out, but not hot enough to damadge a plastic model (at least my skin doesn't melt off).  Perhaps try your car with the windows up?  I don't bother with that, as I've never felt it necessary.  As far as SC1, That's the paint I use for my SP locos.  Everything else is SCII.  Never had a problem so far.  My procedure is to flash coat the model (a real light dusting)  then two heavier recoats spaced 24 hours apart.  SC1 will craze the plastic if you apply it too thick, but the etching that the paint does which leads to the crazing is beneficial for adhesion, thus the light coats.

Mike

FWIW, I found a link to Scalecaot application tips

www.weavermodels.com/page12.html