Pirosko

I had purchased a used Athearn Dash 9 with a digitrax DS104k1 sound decoder drop in board some time ago and it has run ok.  I needed to do some maintenance on the unit and took the opprtunity to replace the HARDWIRED LED with two 1.5V 15 milliamp bulbs, and also adding ditch lights. Why the LED was hard wired I assume is that it is not a drop in board for this model. My question is, I believe I DO NOT need to add resistors between the bulbs and the board as the circuit board takes care of reducing the voltage. Correct? The LED worked hard wired just fine. II have not been able to find any info regarding this from any searches I have done.  Thanks for any help. 

Steve

 

     

Reply 0
lexon

Resistors

The resistor values may be a little high for the 1.5 volt bulbs. Usually 1,000 ohms is used for an LED.

I looked up the manual for this decoder. It is a SDH104K1. According to the manual, it comes with the LED. The resistors would be on the board. Get an ohm meter and check what values are used.

Rich

Reply 0
Pirosko

Dont try this at home!!

Thanks for the info Rich. I beleive you are correct. The LED works and the bulbs don't. So what I would need to do is find out how to hard wire the bulb with a smaller resistor. That is what I was really looking for. But all for nothing now. READ ON.........

I had to work on this engine as it was a bit stubborn. What I found after doing a normal tune up was that the brass?? casing around the motor windings was dented and was actually causing interference. That it is the good tip of the day. Since I knew I was going to have the engine apart I wanted to add llight bulbs and ditch lights. So I started.  Well, did you ever have on of those days where things just happen and you know you should stop, but don't? OK, so the lights did not work, tested the lights with an old MRC power pack and slowly added voltage. They worked, but got distracted, increased the voltage and bamm, they burnt out. OK, get two more lights and set them up,  heat shrink and solder to the board. Now the train did not run??? What I did was bridge the solder to another component. I did save it by gently removing the excess solder and the engine ran again. So the head lights worked, the engine ran, so I added the ditch light, put the endine together , did a test run, the lights did not work! OK, back to the bench, now to problem solving, I guessed that the four lights required more voltage than the board could provide, so that is when I posted the question on this forum. So in the meantime I just assembled the engine, again, and everytime you do this you need to remove and reinstall the couplers. And about half the time the screw popped of my screw driver and either fell into the engine cab or on the floor. Sheesh. OK, shoved all of the wires in again, reassembled, go to the track, I have sound but no movement!! Now what did I do??!! Back to the bench, open it up again, and I notice that with all of the handling truck feed wire came loose. Ok, resoldered that, back to the layout and test. She ran, but was noisy. Must be a wire interfereing with the drive train. Open it up at the layout, lift the body and check it while running. During this test the engine took off, for about half a second and then DEAD stopped. Yep, I think I fried her this morning by the board making contact with the engine clip. @$#%^&!, and then some more ^%&$%#.  She is now on the back bench waiting for a decison about what the next step is for my roster. But for now I am think of taking up golf again!  No not really, but some days..................

.......thanks for listening, I feel better already. 

Steve        

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