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Delaware & Hudson Consol Scratch-Bashes

Thu, 2010-05-20 18:35 — nbrodar
My friend Greg has a wonderful talent for taking Spectrum Consols and turning them into Delaware & Hudson heavy Consols.
E5 build 1:

E5 with switching tender:

E6 build 1:

E6 build 2:

And his current project, a Camelback:

Following the completion of his D&H projects, Greg is thinking of doing a Reading I9 or I10 super consol.
Nick
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Beautiful Anthracite Steam
That is great some great work! Accurate Anthracite RR steam is all but impossible to have unless you scratchbash or go brass (neither is an option for me). I'm a LVRR modeler, so I know!
I'd love to see more of the Camelback project as it progresses. Has your friend ever thought about writing an article for RR Model Craftsman?
RAH
Ralph Heiss, South Plainfield, NJ
Modeling the LVRR and CNJ in Jersey City, NJ circa 1951
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Gorgeous
Your friend Greg does nice work! I too want to see that camelback when it's finished. I admire the folks out there that have the talent and patience to do this kind of work.
Kevin Klettke CEO, Washington Northern Railroad wnrr@comcast.net
http://wnrr.net
Camelback Update
Here's an update on Greg's Camelback, from the fireman's side:
Greg, redid the earlier punched tender rivets with Archer O scale decal rivets.
Nick
Visit the Penn Lake Railway Blog at Model Railroad Hobbyist
D&H 2-8-0 Consolidations! Archer rivet decals!
Thank you all for the wonderful comments regarding my locomotives!
Here is a look at the second E6a project locomotive #1201 all painted just waiting on the marker light jewels and a crew in the cab then it will be ready to pull some coal trains on my railroad!
Delaware & Hudson 2-8-0 Consolidations scratch bash
Here is a photo showing the D&H E5a locomotive #1114 This locomotive like the E6a was waiting for marker light jewels and a crew! The coal loads are made using the clay that you bake in the oven that can be found at craft stores! I then use white glue and apply real crushed coal! The headlights in all the steamers are the mini white LED's. I core out the castings with a Dremel grinding bit paint the insides with silver paint and add the LED with Walthers Goo! To keep the light from shining out the back of the casting I use a few good coats of black paint over the Goo.
I would like to thank ( Nick) for sharing the first few photos of my projects and prompting me to share thoughts and ideas with everybody!
Consolidations Incorporated?
Greg, you not only do superb work, but you also give lie to the base canard that craftsmanship is dead. Every time I look at these pics, I think of the two part article in Trains in 1967 that detailed D&H's love of the 2-8-0. I can imagine the spirit of L.F. Loree smiling down on you from railroader's heaven.
Mind sharing the technique used for rolling the boilers?
Mike
When the going gets tough, the tough play trains
P.S.
Would you mind if I shared the pics with other forums?
Mike
When the going gets tough, the tough play trains
help
Can someone enlighten me? What are those things hanging down from the rear drivers ? I've never seen a locomotive like that. A very interested engine.
Nick Biangel
Thingies over the rear drivers
They are ash pans. Instead of dumping between the rails...they dump outside the rail.
Nick
Visit the Penn Lake Railway Blog at Model Railroad Hobbyist
Consolidation boilers!
I would first like to thank you for the Great comments!
I had wanted for a long time to keep the Spirit of L.F Loree alive by creating as accurate as possible D&H steam! It has taken me a couple years to figure out how to build the models do it as accurately as possible and how to even start! I have other ideas and plans for building 4-6-0 and possibly the big H class 0-8-8-0. It was very frustrating for a lone time being a D&H steam era modeler with no good representation of its steam power! My other interest is the Rutland!
The boilers are made to look fatter by stripping down the Spectrum boiler sanding it smooth and wrapping it in .015 Evergreen Styrene! I use Super Jet Or Zap A Gap glue and evenly spread that on the styrene! The trick was how to hold the styrene tight while the glue totally dried! I was looking at the stuff hanging around the workbench and had some plastic tie wraps that work as a perfect vice! I use the large reusable plastic ties! I use as many as I can fit next to one another making sure that air pockets don't form! The Styrene sometimes gets soft and an area needs to be fixed by lightly sanding the bubbled up sheet and using Squadron Green Putty to smooth it out!
The basis for the wide Wooten fire box is slicing the Spectrum boiler right ahead of the firebox using the boiler ring as a guide! I used the Plans from the June 2003 MR magazine to create patterns for the shape of the Wooten fatter curved firebox! One curved piece is then inserted between the two boiler pieces that had been sliced apart! The second one is then sanded slightly smaller and fitted against the back head detail found in the cab! I discovered the slant of the back of the firebox detail is just about perfect compared to the scale drawings that allow for the slanted cab and back end of the firebox. Both pieces of styrene are fitted so the tops of the cut out patterns are aligned straight and flush with the top of the boiler. I fill the back head detail in after sanding it as flush as can be with the green putty! To make the back piece fit the original cab mounting that has the draw bar screw must be sliced off as flush as possible from the rest of the boiler. Both cut outs once glued in place are notched to allow the boiler to fit back in place on the running gear of the locomotive! The picture below shows the skeleton work that is then created to allow the styrene sheet to take the new shape! The framework is then filled in with green putty built up between this skeleton work and sanded until smooth. it is a lengthy process and I have been able to obtain other drawings with measurements to make it all as exact as possible!