Here's a start

I think you will find this discussion to be a good starting point.

pqe

Done any models before?

Have you done any models before?  And what medium are you used to working in?

If you haven't selected an era, build something generic, that could work in almost any timeframe.

If you haven't built much, look for a relatively simple kit, and especially one with the doors and windows molded as separate pieces; they're much easier to paint.

Bar Mills

a couple of small and easy kits from Bar Mills if you want to work with wood. Basic tools needed, hobby knife, small files...finger nail files work great, white or yellow glue, and some paint.

They have great finishing instructions with the kits.

http://www.barmillsmodels.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=23&category_id=19&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=999123

http://www.barmillsmodels.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=31&category_id=19&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=999

My most used tools

Everyone has an opinion

Legos!

Believe it or not, many of us find a selection of Lego blocks indispensable. They can be assembled into vertical and corner jigs to keep things square. I use hair clips to clamp parts to them.

So raid the kids toy box and your wife's bath set.

pqe

Thanks for the great tips

To answer some of the questions: 

i have never built a kit before and have zero tools/supplies.

i do want build something I can use later.  My plan is to model a small local shoreline that operates near my house. (The Cleveland Commercial Railroad.)

Thanks,

John

What kits are you considering?

What kits do you have or are considering?  Tools and methods are a bit different for plastics than for wood models, especially glues and painting/finishing supplies.

Here is my "get started" tool list that applies to both plastic and wood.

• Xacto knife with a good supply of #11 blades.  I go through them fast.
• Thin hobby razer saw with fine teeth
• Fine files and sandpaper/sanding blocks
• Metal ruler
• Assorted straight edges and right angles
• Perfectly flat, smooth surface to work on
• Wax paper- helps to keep from gluing the structure to the work surface
• Painters tape- to attach the wax paper to the work surface

I have found Walthers kits a

I have found Walthers kits a good starting point, the bare minimum  i have found for those is: File set, Tweezers, Plastic Cement and a good set of sprue cutters,

Keeping It Simple

All of the above suggestions are great and, yes, it depends on what material you are using as to the tools and supplies you'll need, but for now, let's keep it simple. 

If you have a local hobby shop, especially one that carries model trains, go there. Tell them you're just starting out and they'll be happy to help you, but remember, you want to keep it basic and simple. If you don't have a local hobby shop, you'll find everything, except maybe the kits, at Michaels or Hobby Lobby.  

Kit: For the very beginner I'd suggest getting either a Walthers or DPM basic plastic structure kit- four walls and a roof- can't get much simpler than that.

Tools: X-Acto #2 knife and some #11 blades, a sanding stick (fine grit) and liquid styrene glue with a brush in the lid. You'll also want something to help keep the walls square- a small block or wood, metal, combination square, etc- just as long as it has a 90 degree angle you'll be fine.

Paint Brushes:  #1 fine tip brush and a #2 or 1/4" flat brush- get a decent quality but, again, nothing fancy.

Paint: Two, maybe three bottles of acrylic paint- one for the base color and the others for trim. For a beginner I'd recommend Testors, but you can also use acrylic craft paints.  

Building Notes:  

1- Be sure to wash the plastic parts before you start- just use dish soap, to remove the mold release coating- you can't see it but it's there, rinse well and let the parts dry.

2- Take your time- it's not a race.

3- Read the instructions all the way through before you start. (Yeah, I know, guys in general and old modelers in particular, never read the instructions, but do it just this once.)

4- Search this website and the web in general for tutorials- look for the basics first and as your skills improve, you'll be amazed at what you can accomplish.

3- Most importantly- HAVE FUN!  It's your first kit and if it doesn't turn out perfect, that's fine.  Don't get frustrated, just keep moving forward. It's a great hobby and the main purpose, for me at least, is to relax and enjoy it.

A couple of household items

I find useful are single edge razor blades for scraping plastic and wood, fingernail sanding sticks for smoothing edges,  and straight pins for applying glue to small areas( put a drop of glue on the point then touch  it to the item). ..........DaveB

Yes, looking at Walthers

I have the giant Walthers catalog and was looking at some of the simple structures...like a small house, etc.  

I plan on starting simple and taking my time...I am ok with making mistakes.  

With my job, I don't have much time, but I want to get started doing something  related to model railroading.  

Thanks again for the helpful tips...I love the idea of using Legos to help brace things for gluing.  Gives me an excuse to get some..or I can try stealing some from my nephew.  

Looking at Walthers

If you are looking at Walthers brand (plastic) structures, the houses may be even too simple.  "Aunt Lucy's House" is essentially snap together.  Not a bad structure, but not much to learn from.  I'd recommend something like 933-4020 Industry Office (kit).  Formerly known as 933-2830 Yard Office (built up)  It will fit almost anywhere and within the last 60 years.  It's no more expensive than any of the simple houses (on sale at Walthers under $17)

If you live in an area that has model railroad swap meets, go and see what the venders have.  You can usually get a real bargain, but get sealed boxed items.  Sometimes you get shorted on the open boxes.

Glue

For plastic structures be sure to use liquid styrene glue with a brush in the lid, as already mentioned.  Something like Tamiya extra thin cement.  Stay away from the stringy glue that comes in a tube, the kind that we all built models with when we were kids.  It tends to make a mess.

Buy two of the same kit

If you're flush enough to buy two of the same kit it can really take the pressure off. First run through is where you find out what can go wrong, second time around you're more prepared.

A plastic kit is probably the best place to start, as the polystyrene cement glue bonds 'unlikely joins' together fairly quickly, but still gives you time to move things around. Whereas superglue dries a lot faster, and PVA or white glue much more slowly.

As a material, wood is obviously much better at representing wood than plastic, hence why people love their wooden kits. Brass and other metals can hold sharper detail than the styrene plastic. The logic behind these thing is they improve on styrene kits. That's all to come though, plastic kits give an easy start and these days do not look bad at all.   

The first structure kit I made (as in, first as an adult modeler) was the infamous DPM corner turret building, which I found to be nice and simple with well-written instructions and giving just enough challenge without being frustrating. If you want something that could find a place on a future layout, a good tip when scanning the many options is to check out the windows - do they have the ugly oversize frames or are they in scale? Also anything with a gantry or girder element is going to be tricky and perhaps best avoided first time round.  

Two cents on equipment here would be: I don't actually use special modeler's acrylic paint very often. It tends to come in small bottles with fairly large price tags. Using a colour chart you can just use the big bottles of cheap acrylic paint in primary colours to start with. Mix up the colours you need on a palate (ice cream box lid etc). 

There are all manner of tricks to play with but a couple of useful ones right from the start. Paint the inside of the building black if you can see into it. Paint small parts before cutting them from the sprue because the sprue is easier to hold than the part, go back and touch up the cut mark afterwards. If your building has brick textured walls, water down grey paint and run it over the red so it sinks into the cracks and looks like mortar. 

A clothes peg or as the gentleman above says a hairclip is a good investment for clamping parts while they set up. 

Finally if you want to enter the wonderful world of weathering, two easy ways to start are Tamiya Weathering Powder (dirt coloured pastel that you feather on with a special brush they give you) and, if you want to do streaks of rust on a corrugated metal roof (which I hold to be one of the most beautiful sights in the hobby) thinned-down dark brown paint applied at the top and allowed to run down will get you a rough and ready rusty look.   

Good Suggestions

Trent is spot on in his suggestions.

(One clarification for those who speak American instead of English

Looks like that comment got cut off

but let me guess - what I'm calling superglue is more likely to be called CA glue in America? 

CA Glue

Yes- superglue is CA; an abbreviation for Cyanoacrylate glue.  Both terms are used interchangeably in the US, but CA is more often used in print to avoid potential copyright issues with Super Glue which is a trade name.