Very nice Jason you have come

Very nice Jason you have come along way since that first track plan you posted months ago.  The building of the modules may be the best Idea so far (mini Chain saws). The building of Mods will be a great learning stage and will hone your skills while you wait for your railroad building to be constructed. If you don't like the Mods you can salvage the reusable and throw away the rest and not lose really anything but a little time.

Remember to take your time and don't rush your work and you and your young son will have a fantastic railroad that will last for years.

After this first module I would suggest you build an end Module with a loop in it. Build some tempory legs on both mods and hook them together to have some operating room to give you some run time. That is if you have the room in the house.

Good luck and keep us posted.

One last thing! were you able to find a Thomas Railroad town for your son that will not cost you an arm and a leg?

Dan

Looks good, Jason.

With a size of 23" x35", I would estimate that the distance between the cross members is about 12".  Plywood gets more expensive based on thickness and finish on one side (2 sides finished even higher, but a knotfree finish on the bottom probably serves no purpose at all).  If you were to test luan door skin with cross members on 12" centers, you probably could lean all of your weight on it and not get any deflection.  That would also make the benchwork much lighter, which might not be an issue once finished and installed, but could be an issue while still moving it about before permanent installation.

Hey Dan thanks for the

Hey Dan thanks for the positive comments, we have come along way!  I was actually looking at some designs I'd come up with pre MRH & pre actually having some idea about how a real/prototype RR works.  And I must say my idea of what constituted a RR was seriously off the mark!

The mods will be good and will allow me to try out some ideas that I have and get a basic hold of some of the starting principles from Joe's DVD's.  The next module after the first one will be using Joe's cardboard, tape & latex paint contour scenery.   I'm also going to look into making my own turnouts using FT as I really like the look of them, and will see if the initial cost is a worthwhile investment.

I like your idea of the looped module, but I think the minister for Warfare & Finance would have serious issues if I created this in the garage, when I have claimed most of the shed once it's built!

I haven't found a Thomas Table, but.......  We did find an alternative table set up like a RR looks the same and Lachlan won't be able to tell the difference.  He has already began his collection of Thomas trains and is beating his Dad (not fair).

Cheers,

Jas...

Hey Russ, The distance

Hey Russ,

The distance between the cross members is around the 17-3/4" mark (450mm), the module is 900 x 600mm.  The plywood is 17mm and was cut from a sheet 2400 x 1200mm (8' x 4') this has yielded 4 tops for modules.  The entire cost for frame (4"x1") and plywood was around $60 AU.  Not bad really.

I will look into the luan door skins here, not heard of them but sounds like a good alternative.  I did pick up that there was some weight to the module as is (without any scenery, structures or track) so it may be beneficial to look into reducing the weight.

Cheers,

Jason...

If you use luan, add extra cross members.

The cross members should be adot 12" on center to keep the luan from sagging or deflecting under the weight of the locomotives.  Luan is 1/8 inch plywood made with Phillipine mahogany.  Here in the U.S. it is commonly used for skins on hollow core doors, hence the term "door skins."

New arrivals to the J&L

Hi All,

As an early birthday present to myself and as CEO of this future RR, I took it upon myself today with the blessing of the financial advisor to purchase some motive power and rolling stock.

Motive Power:  Proto 2000 GP7 (Pennsylvania #8546)

Rolling Stock:  Proto 2000 Mather 40' Box Car x 2 - ACY (#1195, 1163)

                    :  Proto 2000 10,000 Gallon Type 21 Insulated Tank Car.

I absolutely love the detail on these and cannot wait to have finished our first module, so they can take pride and place where they rightly belong!  Anyhow photos below......

Bonus to Financial Adviser

Make sure the Financial Adviser gets a bonus. The detail on these models is great/ Well done.

*SIGH*

You have one of those "Financial Advisors" too huh?    Really good-looking stuff Jason!

re: Sigh...

Don't we all?  Though in some cases they are called financial dictators not advisers... [grin]

Nice additions to the roster!

Hey Geared, The financial

Kevin yes I do have one as

Kevin yes I do have one as well, however she also can have a dual role and at times is also known as

"The Minister for Warfare" too......

Thanks for the comments, now all I have to do is get my structures and scenery upto your standard and I will be a very happy man....

Jas...

Thanks Kevin, I have also got

Thanks Kevin,

I have also got a Proto 2000 GP30 (Reading Lines) & Caboose (Reading) on order as well, and have ordered another Bachmann - GP7 (Pennsylvania) from Walthers today, as an early B'Day present to myself...

Jason...

Flux & Solder

Hi again all,

Progress today on our first module, have laid out the cork roadbed and set out some mainline track with a #6 turnout.  I'm ready to solder the track joiners, and drop in some track feeds.  Was wondering what type of solder and flux most use for their layouts?  Also how do most secure their track?  Is it latex silicone or track pins and the ballast/white glue mix?

Will post some photos tomorrow...

Cheers,

Jason...

Flux & Solder

Jason wrote:

You should get resin core solder with a small diameter and a tin/lead composition of 60/40 or even better, 63/37.  MRH sponsor, Fast Tracks stocks a small diameter solder that will work well. I don't recommend lead free solder.

For flux, don't use Acid Flux!  Get some liquid or paste resin flux.  This is all you will need for soldering track or any electrical electronic soldering.  MRH sponsor Micro-Mark carries Tix brand resin flux.  You can also find resin flux at electronics suppliers and maybe Radio Shack.

The problem with Acid flux is the potential for corrosion after the solder is made.  Some advise using acid flux but I strongly disagree.

Plain old paint-able latex caulk works great!  If you use track nails be careful not to spike the track to tightly.  I think most use caulk with pins etc. to hold the track until the caulk sets.

Thanks for the advice

Thanks for the advice Kevin...

Jas.

All of the soft solders I've seen are marked with numbers.

The numbers give you the percentage of the metals used to make up the alloy.  Kevin gave good advice, but here in California, and perhaps elsewhere, the big box stores are dropping lead based products.  I noticed a while back that my local Home Depot carried only 95/5.  I used to use 95/5 in transport refrigeration equipment until the new units from Carrier switched over to R-22 for refrigerant.   Then we went to silver solder on both sides of the system.  95/5 melts at a much higher temperature and is much stronger than 40/60 or the other soft solders (except for Stay-Brite which is silver bearing).  If you get 95/5 you probably won't be able to melt it with a small hobby sized sodlering iron or solderiong pencil.  I mention all of this, because I don't know what stores you have in Australia or what you laws and practices are concerning lead in solder.  I think the number designations are standard world wide.

Hey Russ & Kevin, I managed

Hey Russ & Kevin, I managed to locate an electronics wholesaler online yesterday and purchased some 63/37 rosin core solder, and a couple of rosin flux pens.  Happy Days...

Russ your right about the silver solder, we use it here in Australia in the plumbing industry (I'm a plumber, not practicing though) and your right about it, having a much higher melting point.  And yes it is extremely strong, to the point that the copper will break long before the actual silver soldered joint will.  

Our stores are clearly heading down the same line as yours, I had trouble finding it anywhere in any local retail or commercial hardware/electrical stores.  Even our Radioshack equivalent "Dick Smith" didn't stock it.

Cheers,

Jason...

Out here you just about have to go to an industrial hardware

store to get anything but lead free solder.  Fortunately I know where most of the industrial hardware dealers are in my area.

Track Laying Day

Hi All,

Had a few hours today to lay some track and attach feeder wires while Lachlan was in childcare, all went reasonable well and I'm happy with how it turned out.  Anyhow here's some photos and comments.

Peco - Code 83 Flextrack & #6 RH Turnout laid onto caulk road bed, joiners soldered, straightened and pinned.

Bending & crimping the solid core wire (track feeder) making a small tab to be soldered onto the inside rail.

The track feeders bent, crimped and ready to be soldered.

Holes drilled through the cork roadbed & plywood base.

The track feeder soldered in place (this was the best one...)

Checking clearances between feeder and rolling stock wheels, all good!

Feeders installed...

All finished, soldered, feeders installed, ties replaced and ready for ballasting...

The next project......

Interesting feeder location

Can't say as I've seen many feeders soldered to the inside of the track, but with small enough wire in HO it obviously works.  Good on ya for getting started!

Hello Jason         Your

Hello Jason        

Your there!!                                                                                      

The Pike Has Rails and the new rolling stock is very nice.

I have only one suggestion and that is--- Get some smaller gauge wire for your track leaders. That leader you're using is way too big! and unnecessary

It's a good size for your main Bus line as it looks to be 12 gauge wire but for the leader wire that you actually attach to the track and then runs down through the table an drops down to the Main Bus line it should be closer to 18-22 gauge wire for the leaders. That way you will not have a large lump attached to the rail and the leader wire should have a little more flex. Even with crimping and flattening the end of the wire it is still way to thick and could be a source point for derailments. Remember your only running under 20 volts through your wires and you'll find smaller gauge a lot easier to work with also, you should attach the wire leaders to the outside of the rails to keep the wheel flanges from bouncing on the inside solder joint. You do appear to have outstanding soldering skills but go with the smaller leaders it makes life along the railroad much easier.

Using 22 gauge wire for the leaders if you strip about 7mm of insulation off the end of the wire and bend the wire at 90 degrees with 4mm of wire to run along the outside edge of the rail you won't need to crimp and flatten the wire as it will set snugly inside the the grove along the bottom edge of the rail. Then when you solder it it will have 4mm of the wire soldered snugly to the rail and the leader being of a much smaller gauge will have a lot more flex so that you can then feed the wire through the hole in the table and pull it down snugly without effecting the rail or causing the rail to flex in any way.

That's my only suggestion for you for now otherwise your pike has a great start.

Keep going your doing good and have fun with the new pike.

Dan

Hey Phillip, I can't remember

Hey Phillip,

I can't remember exactly where I saw it either, but thought I would give it a go seeing as this module is a chainsaw of sought's anyhow.  These are all about learning the craft, trying ideas and making mistakes now......

Cheers,

Jason...

Hey Dan, well sought of

Hey Dan, well sought of there...  It's coming up out of the ground (well plywood) at a nice rate.  I lucked out big time with the rolling stock, I really wanted a couple of GP7's and this one (Proto2000) and the one I have on order from Walthers (Bachmann) where very hard to find!

After doing some more work tonight I must agree that the feeder wires are too big, I wanted a solid core cable and this was the only one I could get today.  But as I mentioned to Philip as this is chainsaw/learning module I'm not to fussed.  I like your idea about the cable on the outside with a smaller gauge, I will give that a go on the next module.  

I just remembered where I saw the inside rail soldering on, it was on Joe's Siskiyou line DVD.  Although Joe put the the other feeder on the back side of the inner rail when facing the layout, so that you cannot see either of the feeders from the front unless looking directly over the track.

Cheers and thanks Dan,

Jason...

Module Scene

Hi again all,

Have done some more work tonight on the structure for our beginner module, it is a Cornerstone Modular Kit.  The basic outside has been made, and I will start on the roads, and concrete areas within the business next.  Have taken a few set-up photos of what the scene will look like when completed.  Enjoy...

Pennsylvania GP7 #8546 reverses a boxcar and tank into the spur for unloading...

An aerial shot of the factory and spur...

Some more new editions for our little pike...

Another shot of the factory, and tank car ready for unloading...

Thats all for now, next update will hopefully include some ballasting and road and sidewalk detail...

Cheers,

Jason...