Matt Goodman

My layout is on a self-guided tour this weekend in conjunction with my NMRA Region's convention ("Rails to the Capital" - MCR).  Like most people, an event like this can lead to a flurry of work; in my case that involved rushing some mock-ups of some of the industries in Circleville, the current focus of the layout.  One thing, of course, always leads to another; the mockup work, specifically some reasonably precise plan-drawing and foamboard-cutting that requires good light, made the known weak lighting spots very obvious and somewhat problematic.  I.e., I needed more light.

As background, I hung a bunch of T12 shop lights in the joist spaces of the basement about twelve-fifteen years ago when it was largely a play/gaming area.  It wasn't (and isn't) the best-looking installation, but it is very functional with lots of light.  Two spots didn't receive fixtures at that time; one was over an area that had housed shelving and a TV - i.e., the video gaming area - and the other had a ceiling heat duct in the way.  Those two areas are not poorly lit in isolation - but are noticeably darker relative to the rest of the space.  In addition, time has taken its toll on the remaining fixtures and their lamps; some have had one of the two lamps go bad, and all have suffered light output degradation - I'm fairly certain some of the tubes are original.

In short, the tour prompted me to do something that was long needed.  Since this wasn't intended as a permanent solution, the plan was to keep it simple and reuse where possible to keep costs down:

  • Move two of the "one-eyed" fixtures (one lamp bad) to new locations over the former TV area.  This space wasn't large enough to warrant double-tubed fixtures from a light output standpoint; a good reuse candidate.
  • Move one of the one-eyed lamps to the opposite side of the basement over staging (where all my one-eyed lamps go to live out their golden, flickering, buzzing years) until I develop a more permanent lighting plan for the area.
  • Purchase three new T8 shop lights to backfill the re-purposed fixtures and to install next to the heating duct (I ended up getting four).

The last point led to an interesting side trip.  I'd intended to purchase high-CRI fluorescent tubes similar to those that I have in my shop area. Unfortunately, they are no longer being sold - they don't meet newer efficiency regulations that require a specific lumens/watt output (called "efficacy").  Fluorescent lamps that can't meet that requirement can no longer be manufactured or imported.  High CRI lamps are, as far as I understand it, less efficient than standard lamps - typically because more fluorescing material/coatings are required to generate the missing colors, and those additional materials mean less light gets out of the lamp. As a result, the lamps I wanted are no longer in production. 

While researching options, I found a good blog post on LED T8 replacement lamps here:
http://www.designingwithleds.com/review-hands-cree-linear-led-t8-fluorescent-replacement-lamp/

That article made me aware of the LED T8 replacements by Cree.  The Cree lamp discussed therein has a beautiful color spectrum, I was specifically impressed with the red reproduction (R9) (note: even high CRI fluorescent lamps typically score poorly with reds).  That model discussed in the link above is no longer available, having since been replaced by a less expensive lamp, which is distributed by Home Depot.  I decided to give these a try.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cree-TW-Series-48-in-T8-18-5-Watt-Cool-White-Linear-Dimmable-LED-Light-Bulb-BT848-17040FLW-BDG13-2C100/206433387

I picked up and installed four new electronic-ballast T8 shop lights and four of the Cree TW lamps in 4000 Kelvin.  (I've been a fan of 3500 Kelvin ranged lamps since listening to the "Let There Be Light" episode of Model Rail Radio podcast - you can listen to it here: http://www.modelrailradio.com/archive.html#25). 4000 should give me more white, but based on the spectral charts discussed in the article above, I should get much better reds, in spite of the "cooler" temperature.

The following photos illustrate the results.

Before additional lighting.  Note the shadowing along the back wall (former TV area) and, less obvious, a slight dip in light along the right wall, towards the right side of the frame.  ISO 800, f4 @ 1/40
DSC_1186.JPG 

After.  This looks overly bright since the same camera settings were used (ISO 800, f4 @ 1/40) but with more light available. There are four additional lamps (not fixtures, individual tubes), and I replaced three of the dimmest remaining T12 lamps. The back wall is now gorgeously lit and the right side is a bit brighter. In real life, the hot spots aren't noticeable.
DSC_1195.JPG 

T8 Color Comparisons - After picking up the Cree T8 LED retrofit lamps, I was curious to see how they looked relative to the lamps (flourescent tubes) I had been using.  All photos were taken with the same ISO and aperture, but I allowed the shutter to pick it's own speed so that the relative brightness would be constant (the fluorescent tubes put out less light than the LED - probably due to age and the overstatement of their output as described in the article linked above).  I used one lamp in a two-lamp fixture for the following photos.

GE Ecolux w/Starcoat SPX35-ECO (3500 Kelvin, 2950 lumens, 86 CRI, 32 watts) - F5.6, 1/60. This is my current workbench lamp.  Pretty yellow, all the more noticeable since my workshop is the only location with this color temperature (the brain easily adjusts to color changes - if they're consistently employed).
DSC_1198.JPG 
GE Ecolux w/Starcoat SPX50-ECO (5000 Kelvin, 2800 lumens, ?? CRI (probably ~86), 32 watts) - F5.6, 1/60. Purchased at the same time as the 3500s, but beyond some early experiments, was unused until yesterday's lighting additions.  A bit washed out in my view.
DSC_1200.JPG 
Cree 32 Watt Replacement T8 Series (4000 Kelvin, 1700 lumens, 90 CRI, 18.5 watts) - F5.6, 1/100.  The lower lumens / higher shutter speed is an interesting illustration of the light output differences. Nice compromise; the wood is a natural color, reds still stand out.
DSC_1205.JPG 

What do you think?

I was already leaning toward whiter lights for the layout prior to this episode - not the least because lamps (all types) in the 5000 Kelvin range are easier to find that 3500 Kelvin.  5000 are a bit too blue for my taste, but not bad.  I'd wanted a good 4000 Kelvin lamp, and now Cree has provided one. This lamp will impact my lighting color choice when I get around to the "real" lighting plan.  When that happens, my garage - the final, final resting place for old fixtures - will be VERY well lit!

Matt

Matt Goodman
Columbus, OH, US
--------------------------
MRH Blog
VI Tower Blog - Along the tracks in pre-war Circleville, Ohio
Why I Model Steam - Why steam locomotion is in my blood

Reply 0
Chris Ellis

Cree T8 replacement bulbs

I've been very interested in the Cree 4K LED lights as well. I think in your application they look really great and your examples only prove to reinforce my desire to use them.

My issue with using the Cree replacement bulbs is I don't have enough existing fixtures and I wanted to avoid the additional expense of buying a complete fixtures. I've been trying to find a solution that uses those replacement bulbs as a low profile lighting source without the expense of buying fixtures or ballasts separately. I haven't found anything though searches for alternate examples of powering replacement T8 LED bulbs. Perhaps there's no other way but with a ballast. I guess I just wish Cree made a T8 style bulb that doesn't need a ballast.

For you Matt, I think they look awesome in your space. To me the color is a perfect middle ground between the two GE bulbs. Plus just think about the energy savings.

Thanks for sharing the photos and information.

Reply 0
barr_ceo

There are T8 LED florescent replacements now...

There are T8 LED florescent replacement. bulbs now that do not need a ballast - they can be directly connected to 120v power. They are commonly called "ballast bypass" or just "bypass" bulbs.

Full disclosure: I work at Batteries + Bulbs.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/led11664

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/led11665

I've installed the daylight (LED11665) bulbs in my sister's laundry room and closet, in existing florescent fixtures. It DOES require rewiring the fixture, and possibly replacing or modifying the "tombstones" that the bulb snaps into. If you're not confident doing that yourself, get a professional or use the "direct replacement" versions that need no rewiring (but do retain the ballast from the old lights).

There are some ways to "roll your own fixture" using the bypass bulbs and correctly wired tombstones. This is not for the faint of heart or timid, though, because you're playing with full 120v house current.

I won't post how to do it, and don't even think about doing it unless you're comfortable and knowledgeable about working with line-voltage wiring.

Read my Journal / Blog...

!BARR_LO.GIF Freelanced N scale Class I   Digitrax & JMRI

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Reply 0
Matt Goodman

My issue with using the Cree

Quote:

My issue with using the Cree replacement bulbs is I don't have enough existing fixtures and I wanted to avoid the additional expense of buying a complete fixtures.

 

I think that is actually the best situation in which to use them.  Not needing many means a relatively low cost outlay for the needed fixtures.  I think you're right to be exploring dedicated fixtures; these lamps are just stop gaps for me.

Thanks for the comment - one day I'm going to bug you to take a look at your layout.  You do thoughtful work.

Matt Goodman
Columbus, OH, US
--------------------------
MRH Blog
VI Tower Blog - Along the tracks in pre-war Circleville, Ohio
Why I Model Steam - Why steam locomotion is in my blood

Reply 0
wslco15

5000 Kelvin

Matt

Thank you for your YouTube videos of your layout build.

I found your spline roadbed info very helpful.

I have 5000K LED lighting. I used 3 small integrated tube lights for my

workbench. For the layout I converted T12 fixtures. When all the ballasts 

are removed the room was eerily quiet. The color of 5000k seems like 

mid day sun. The glow is from the iPad camera.

 

Steve

 

IMG_0268.JPG 

 

 

IMG_0230.JPG IMG_0295.JPG _0305(1).JPG _0306(1).JPG 

Reply 0
Matt Goodman

Lights and Spline

Hi Steve, thanks for the comments

Quote:

Thank you for your YouTube videos of your layout build.  I found your spline roadbed info very helpful.

I'm glad you found them useful - I just put another one up a day or two ago (a second time-lapse).  My spline building method is getting more stable, but I still learn something new every session. I bought my Homasote in two batches, and one was thicker than the other; as a result, the roadbed came out a bit too wide.  I've got a plan to adjust that, which is a good example of something that can best be learned by doing. 

From your photos, it appears you are using 1" spline?  I've followed the 2" depth that Jeff Otto recommends (and that Loren Casey from this forum has also adopted) and I've found that it is very strong.  As time has passed, the roadbed has occasionally taken on the role of a workbench and I have no qualms about leaning my entire upper body weight on it.  It certainly doesn't need to be that strong for it's intended role (holding up models).  If I were doing it again, I may consider slightly less depth (my staging level is 1 1/2") but it's hard to second guess the experience of someone who has been using it for decades.  What are your thoughts on your spline depth?

Quote:

For the layout I converted T12 fixtures. When all the ballasts are removed the room was eerily quiet.

I noticed the same thing when I installed a couple of electronic ballast fluorescent fixtures about five years ago.  Most of the fixtures above my head still buzz, which I don't notice unless I'm listening for it.  T12 shoplight type fixtures aren't the prettiest thing, but they can sure lay down the light.

Matt Goodman
Columbus, OH, US
--------------------------
MRH Blog
VI Tower Blog - Along the tracks in pre-war Circleville, Ohio
Why I Model Steam - Why steam locomotion is in my blood

Reply 0
wslco15

Spline Thickness

Matt

 

Visiting an old thread and saw you asked about spline thickness.

I purchased 10' by 4" homasote expansion strips and cut them in half.

They have worked out well with the weight of my 1/2" scale shays.

I just added some 3000k LED spotlights with a CRI of 95  to augment my

5000k LED T8's.

Steve

IMG_0585.JPG IMG_0586.JPG 

Reply 0
Matt Goodman

Thanks WSL

I think the strips you're talking about are manufactured to place between concrete slabs (I've heard Homasote is sometimes used for this)? Or are they for a different type of application?

Matt Goodman
Columbus, OH, US
--------------------------
MRH Blog
VI Tower Blog - Along the tracks in pre-war Circleville, Ohio
Why I Model Steam - Why steam locomotion is in my blood

Reply 0
peter-f

returning to lighting...

My basement ceiling was rebuilt this year because my 2ft fluorescents were dying, and replacements are few. So I used led 1x2 ft flat panels.. About 1 inch thick and below the ceiling tile. For 4ft fluorescent tubes, the options are greater... Direct replacement LED using electronic ballasts, LED tube ballast bypass, or LED panels. The bypass seem to be more efficient... But require rewiring. Also labeled "toggle" type. Rather simple, and as noted above, need careful installation. They're also less expensive. The direct replacement need GOOD condition electronic ballast. (mine were magnetic!) that means within the last 20 years' manufacture. Older = NG. Flat panel = about $80 each. Just wanted to offer some terms and comparisons from my shopping.
- regards

Peter

Reply 0
wslco15

Matt Home Depot sells the

Matt

Home Depot sells the expansion strips that are Homasote.

Years ago they sold 4X8 sheets.

 

Steve

Reply 0
Bob Dye

Homex 300

Matt- you are correct in that Homex 300 is used as expansion joint material, called concrete joint fillers.  If you can find a local concrete construction supplier, not only may they carry it, but if so, they should be able cut it into what depth you need.  My local supplier used a set of rotary knives to cut the sheets.

Reply 0
Matt Goodman

Thanks for the tips

Thanks Steve and Bob.  If I was in the market for more Homasote spline, I might look at the expansion strips to see if they're applicable (it sounds like they are).  I've got enough left over strips to serve my needs for awhile.

Peter, I'm getting close to renewing my general purpose ceiling lighting. As seen in the photos, all the fixtures are shoplight-based and from a lighting perspective, that worked well when the room was a playroom for the kids. It was also passable aesthetically since the fixture are in the joist space. But now that it's a playroom for dad, the lights really need to be turned ninety degrees to better follow the railroad - but that means they hang below the joists - and that isn't passable aesthetically.  Perhaps the panels you describe will be a good solution.

 

Matt Goodman
Columbus, OH, US
--------------------------
MRH Blog
VI Tower Blog - Along the tracks in pre-war Circleville, Ohio
Why I Model Steam - Why steam locomotion is in my blood

Reply 0
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