My layout is on a self-guided tour this weekend in conjunction with my NMRA Region's convention ("Rails to the Capital" - MCR). Like most people, an event like this can lead to a flurry of work; in my case that involved rushing some mock-ups of some of the industries in Circleville, the current focus of the layout. One thing, of course, always leads to another; the mockup work, specifically some reasonably precise plan-drawing and foamboard-cutting that requires good light, made the known weak lighting spots very obvious and somewhat problematic. I.e., I needed more light.
As background, I hung a bunch of T12 shop lights in the joist spaces of the basement about twelve-fifteen years ago when it was largely a play/gaming area. It wasn't (and isn't) the best-looking installation, but it is very functional with lots of light. Two spots didn't receive fixtures at that time; one was over an area that had housed shelving and a TV - i.e., the video gaming area - and the other had a ceiling heat duct in the way. Those two areas are not poorly lit in isolation - but are noticeably darker relative to the rest of the space. In addition, time has taken its toll on the remaining fixtures and their lamps; some have had one of the two lamps go bad, and all have suffered light output degradation - I'm fairly certain some of the tubes are original.
In short, the tour prompted me to do something that was long needed. Since this wasn't intended as a permanent solution, the plan was to keep it simple and reuse where possible to keep costs down:
- Move two of the "one-eyed" fixtures (one lamp bad) to new locations over the former TV area. This space wasn't large enough to warrant double-tubed fixtures from a light output standpoint; a good reuse candidate.
- Move one of the one-eyed lamps to the opposite side of the basement over staging (where all my one-eyed lamps go to live out their golden, flickering, buzzing years) until I develop a more permanent lighting plan for the area.
- Purchase three new T8 shop lights to backfill the re-purposed fixtures and to install next to the heating duct (I ended up getting four).
The last point led to an interesting side trip. I'd intended to purchase high-CRI fluorescent tubes similar to those that I have in my shop area. Unfortunately, they are no longer being sold - they don't meet newer efficiency regulations that require a specific lumens/watt output (called "efficacy"). Fluorescent lamps that can't meet that requirement can no longer be manufactured or imported. High CRI lamps are, as far as I understand it, less efficient than standard lamps - typically because more fluorescing material/coatings are required to generate the missing colors, and those additional materials mean less light gets out of the lamp. As a result, the lamps I wanted are no longer in production.
While researching options, I found a good blog post on LED T8 replacement lamps here:
http://www.designingwithleds.com/review-hands-cree-linear-led-t8-fluorescent-replacement-lamp/
That article made me aware of the LED T8 replacements by Cree. The Cree lamp discussed therein has a beautiful color spectrum, I was specifically impressed with the red reproduction (R9) (note: even high CRI fluorescent lamps typically score poorly with reds). That model discussed in the link above is no longer available, having since been replaced by a less expensive lamp, which is distributed by Home Depot. I decided to give these a try.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cree-TW-Series-48-in-T8-18-5-Watt-Cool-White-Linear-Dimmable-LED-Light-Bulb-BT848-17040FLW-BDG13-2C100/206433387
I picked up and installed four new electronic-ballast T8 shop lights and four of the Cree TW lamps in 4000 Kelvin. (I've been a fan of 3500 Kelvin ranged lamps since listening to the "Let There Be Light" episode of Model Rail Radio podcast - you can listen to it here: http://www.modelrailradio.com/archive.html#25). 4000 should give me more white, but based on the spectral charts discussed in the article above, I should get much better reds, in spite of the "cooler" temperature.
The following photos illustrate the results.
Before additional lighting. Note the shadowing along the back wall (former TV area) and, less obvious, a slight dip in light along the right wall, towards the right side of the frame. ISO 800, f4 @ 1/40
After. This looks overly bright since the same camera settings were used (ISO 800, f4 @ 1/40) but with more light available. There are four additional lamps (not fixtures, individual tubes), and I replaced three of the dimmest remaining T12 lamps. The back wall is now gorgeously lit and the right side is a bit brighter. In real life, the hot spots aren't noticeable.
T8 Color Comparisons - After picking up the Cree T8 LED retrofit lamps, I was curious to see how they looked relative to the lamps (flourescent tubes) I had been using. All photos were taken with the same ISO and aperture, but I allowed the shutter to pick it's own speed so that the relative brightness would be constant (the fluorescent tubes put out less light than the LED - probably due to age and the overstatement of their output as described in the article linked above). I used one lamp in a two-lamp fixture for the following photos.
GE Ecolux w/Starcoat SPX35-ECO (3500 Kelvin, 2950 lumens, 86 CRI, 32 watts) - F5.6, 1/60. This is my current workbench lamp. Pretty yellow, all the more noticeable since my workshop is the only location with this color temperature (the brain easily adjusts to color changes - if they're consistently employed).
GE Ecolux w/Starcoat SPX50-ECO (5000 Kelvin, 2800 lumens, ?? CRI (probably ~86), 32 watts) - F5.6, 1/60. Purchased at the same time as the 3500s, but beyond some early experiments, was unused until yesterday's lighting additions. A bit washed out in my view.
Cree 32 Watt Replacement T8 Series (4000 Kelvin, 1700 lumens, 90 CRI, 18.5 watts) - F5.6, 1/100. The lower lumens / higher shutter speed is an interesting illustration of the light output differences. Nice compromise; the wood is a natural color, reds still stand out.
What do you think?
I was already leaning toward whiter lights for the layout prior to this episode - not the least because lamps (all types) in the 5000 Kelvin range are easier to find that 3500 Kelvin. 5000 are a bit too blue for my taste, but not bad. I'd wanted a good 4000 Kelvin lamp, and now Cree has provided one. This lamp will impact my lighting color choice when I get around to the "real" lighting plan. When that happens, my garage - the final, final resting place for old fixtures - will be VERY well lit!
Matt