curious...

Mike,

I'm really enjoying this series and I have l been given the courage to try some new medias. Now if only I could be "given" the time!

In this video, you declared the car finished, saying it took about 30 minutes which is a bit misleading, since really that was only the one side and the roof. The car is shown at the end as "in service" but with unweathered ends.

I'm curious to know if you finished the other sides of these cars and could we see complete photos of the final in service models?

It seemed in the previous installment (the SCL hopper) that the 2nd side of the car may have been lost to experimentation. It was cleverly covered in masking tape for the presentation. Were you able to recover that side? If so, how did you handle that?

I think it's great that this series seeks to share the weathering experience "warts and all".

One side only

Bill,

For the purposes of the demo, I only did one side on each car, and one end. If I had done a complete car, it would have taken twice the time, and it would have been repetitive and all that.

So, yes 30 minutes per side for the GT hopper is probably more accurate since it was a rather light weathering job. 

Another factor in it taking a bit more time is the filming process which adds a lot of time. 

So, in general I'd say for any of these cars featured in the series, they would take ME about 60-90 minutes to complete the entire car. Now, I've been doing this a while, so it will take someone new to the process a bit longer.

Regarding the SCL car, it wasn't lost to experimentation, I just did a small test for color and effect and didn't want to wait several days for the oils to cure completely, so I protected it. I haven't revisited that car yet and to be honest, I'm trying to find a home for it because the weathering job reflects mid-90s and I'm modeling early 80s!

So, if you know someone......

Mike Confalone

You can always...

You can always send your homeless cars to me Mike... 

Box 354, Neche ND 58265

Keep up the good work!

Oils

Hey Mike.  First of all, great weathering.  Secondly, you don't have to wait days for oils to cure.  When you apply a decent coat of Dullcote after each layer of weathering, the Dullcote dries the oil washes and oil drybrushing almost immediately.  I have been weathering with oils for years and after spraying Dullcote over a layer of weathering, I can touch the car with no problem.  Just thought I'd throw this in.  Take care.

Tom Johnson

Dullcoat over oils

Hey Tom,

Yes, I use Dullcoat over oil washes but on the full strength straight oils that are applied heavily I like to let them set up for a couple days before coating with Dullcoat.

Mike Confalone

A Question for Mike:        

A Question for Mike:                  

In the previous cars you've mentioned not dullcoating the car until after the lettering was faded out with thinner, I assume the same is true for this car? Good timing on this one, I've just started to weather a MILW hopper of the same tye as the GTW car!

-Trevor

Problem with Oil Washes

Mike

I am having a problem with oil washes as described in your series.  I have followed your instructions to the letter regarding the ratio of Windsor and Newton oils with Odorless Solvent ("ideal for diluting oils" on the label) from DeSerres (a big Canadian artist supply store).  I stir it up in the bottle and then give it a vigorous shake.  Within 5 minutes of it sitting on my workbench the oils start to separate from the solvent and drop to the bottom of the jar.  Within 10 minutes it has totally separated.  I have tried a number of colours.  If I use it immediately after shaking it works fine.  Am I doing something wrong?  I have not tried turpentine.  I have had no problems with my Acrylic washes following Joe Fugate's minimalist weathering recipe of Vallejo Air or acrylic artist colours and Armorall Window Cleaner - they don't separate.

Thanks

I would try

a different solvent.  I think Mike mentioned he tried several solvents before settling on turpenoid.  Maybe give this one a try from DeSerres.

I've tried several solvents

and by far my favorite is Grumbacher artist's turpentine. It has never separated on me and flows much better than turpenoid etc.

https://www.dickblick.com/products/grumbacher-turpentine/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=01563-1005&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItMjZu87H3QIVxZ-zCh1_Ugo2EAQYASABEgLGgvD_BwE

Turpentine not turpenoid

I don't use turpenoid, always Grumbacher turpentine. It doesn't separate much, if at all. Costs more, works better!

Mike Confalone

Turpenoid Test

Dave, Rick and Mike

Thanks for your prompt and helpful responses.  I am going to try the Weber Turpenoid from DeSerres and if all else fails go to Grumbacher.  My principal reason is wanting to keep the odors to a minimum but with the clear understanding that Turpenoid is just as toxic and flammable as turpentine.  The mixture currently is sitting on my desk and there is separation but much slower.

Have any of you tried making washes with the Windsor and Newton Water Mixable Oils with de-ionized or distilled water?  I have mixed up a batch and will see what happens on some old blue box cars.

Thanks 

Hmm

I'm going to have to watch the videos again.  It's been probably a year and a half since I watched it.  Mike, I thought you said you used Turpenoid, but maybe you said you tried it and weren't satisfied with it.  Sorry for the confusion, Ian.  I was just using some oils thinner my wife had and planned to buy some Turpenoid when that ran out, but now I'll have to rewatch and see.  The thinner I have works for the most part, but I make small batches as it separates, too, after awhile.

Like you, Ian, I really prefer to avoid the smell if I can.  Certain strong odors really affect me, so I want to avoid that if I possibly can.