Swing bridges of Marion County....

My layout, in a rather convoluted fashion, describes a big loop. Basically I did this because:
1. I wanted continuous running for when I was showing it off; and
2. I didn't think I had enough room for staging at both ends of the layout... so both ends became the same end.
As a result, I have tracks that jump an aisle. The first version of these involved a major passing siding terminating in a curved switch, at which point the track continued across a rickety (1 layer plywood) side-hinged bridge spanning the aisle.
The problems with this included the curved switch (a Walthers Code 83) not being in gauge somewhere, so stuff derailed when it hit it from the siding, and the track ends on both sides of the bridge were starting to get really wobbly, hanging out like that (yes, I cut the ends in the wrong places).
Obviously an unacceptable situation. Plus I wanted to adjust the entire siding to get it closer to the main and leave me a little more room for other stuff.
So...the bridge was unscrewed from the benchwork, the turnout and siding were ripped up... and I stopped to look at it a bit.
I upgraded the benchwork and built a much stronger bridge out of some scrap 1x4 boards I had laying around from a shelving project, as well as some other odds and ends (there is a piece of 1x5 3/4 composite decking material as the "landing" on the far side from the hinges) I had sitting around.
First thought - it's a bridge, let's put a bridge on it! Um.... no, that didn't work out. I had the center section of the swing bridge all foamed in, ready for carving into a mini-gorge, when I finally faced an ugly truth: there was no way I was going to be able to fit a #6 switch into the area between the current end of my mainline and the edge of the benchwork - where the bridge would begin. The siding was going to have to go on, or all the way across, the bridge. Considering the trackwork goes into a nearly immediate 2% climb past the bridge, putting in the switch on the bridge seemed the best idea. Still does, actually. So I ripped out the foam and built a 1x4 bridge across the gap...in the bridge. Sigh.
Fast forward - I've got the mainline all the way across the bridge. The switch is in place, with a ground throw on it. The end pieces of the track have been soldered to brass screws that were screwed into the benchwork on both sides of both gaps to hold them in gauge. A system for making sure the bridge closes in the same place - and stays that way - is in place. The rails were cut with a motor-tool cutting disc.
It's time to start the test runs.... um, why are those cars derailing on one end of the bridge?
The culprit appears to be three-fold: really small flange wheels on the latest ExactRail cars, one of the rail gaps being big enough (and with just enough of a curve in it) that the flange pretty much goes into and over it instead of following the rail around, and a bit of wonkiness with vertical curves between that 2% slope and the rail ends where the bridge begins.
Older cars, or ones I've rewheeled with Kadee, P2K or Intermountain wheelsets appear to have no problems with it all.
The wonkiness has been worked out by cutting the caulk under the track between the slope and screws, allowing it to level itself, and I've just glued a very thin piece of styrene to one end of the slightly over-gapped track (it would be fine except for the curve - don't put curves where you are going to cut track... ) that when it dries I'll file down to a more rail-like shape. We'll see how that does.
Photos in a bit.
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Comments
You ever go to do something...
...and once you get started you just kinda roll with it? I just went out to take some photos and see if my styrene fix was ready for prime time. So I did that... and then realized I could lay some cork to the edge of the bridge for the siding... and then I decided to keep going. Thought I'd run out of cork a few inches short of my destination, but when cleaning up I found a few scraps that were long enough to finish it with.
So now I just have to lay the track for the siding after the cork dries.
You might notice a Z-scale loop in the middle of everything. That's my idea of adding a riding "amusement park" railroad to my layout, or, more accurately according to my wife, it's my excuse to buy Z Scale equipment. After I got done taking photos I cut all the foam out where the loop is - the turnouts really don't like uneven terrain.
Styrene patch on the near rail. Bridge is slightly open.
Did you know that Arizona Rock & Mineral Ballast makes a really good flexible weight to hold down drying cork?
The problem-free end of things.
My latching mechanism for the swing bridge. Composite decking is really a lot tougher material than pine, fir or hemlock.
One of the advantages to having a good hardware store in town is that the people working there can often find what you need... even if that isn't the purpose it was designed for. I'm not sure what this little sleeve was for, but it works great at very snugly holding the bolt.
The swing bridge from the inside in all it's current glory.
This end of the railroad... with the mainline in the background, the cork for Minto siding just inside it, and the Z Scale "Willow Creek RR" inside of it. Just a little more flextrack, some solder, and I think I'll be ready to run trains...
--
Jeff Shultz
http://www.shultzinfosystems.com
The Willamette & Pacific RR - Oregon Electric Branch
Model Railroad Hobbyist Technical Assistant
Testing the styrene fix
Not sure what that stuttering sound is - camera artifact I guess. Anyway, looks like putting that styrene patch in and manually "adjusting" the track height by a miniscule amount worked:
--
Jeff Shultz
http://www.shultzinfosystems.com
The Willamette & Pacific RR - Oregon Electric Branch
Model Railroad Hobbyist Technical Assistant
Jeff It looks like you have a
Jeff It looks like you have a winner and the cars seems very smooth crossing the small gap. I'm thinking about building a set of swing bridges or two levels on the same swing gate but as I'm completely rebuilding my railroad and the room is being expanded in fact I just finished tearing out a wall and putting in two other walls and still have a lot to do. But thanks for the inspiration on the bridge.
I like your "Z" gauge kiddy ride in progress and want to see it when completed
I would like to see the bridge in a video opening and closing and how it's aligned as well as your hinges in action. The dead bolt is cool I've never seen one with a loop handle where did you find it?
Dan
Rio Grande Dan
a suggestion
how bout some close clearance gaurd rails. ?
being narrower it should allow them to be staggered past the rails joing area and still allow the bridge to open.
Smooth
Nice work in solving the problem, Jeff. Some ballast and no one will know the difference.
Geared is the way to tight radii and steep grades. Ghost River Rwy. "The Misty Loggers"
http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e185/Grampy1dad/Ghost%20River/
Guard rails
That idea - or using bridge track, has occurred to me...
--
Jeff Shultz
http://www.shultzinfosystems.com
The Willamette & Pacific RR - Oregon Electric Branch
Model Railroad Hobbyist Technical Assistant
Looks like you fixed it and
Looks like you fixed it and some good ideas to make it better. How often do you have to open the bridge? If it is occasionally you could also try adding rail joiners that slide in and out to ensure proper alignment as well. I have this set up on a major bridge duck under to make the bridge removeable and it allows for proper alignment height wise and horizontally.
Steve
Nice job
Jeff,
Nice job on the bridge fix.
Regarding the broken outlet cover on the adjacent switch box. At your hardware store, look for flexible nylon outlet covers, instead of the more rigid regular plastic ones. The nylon ones can be cut/trimmed without shattering, and then will flex instead of breaking, if snagged.
Don
Rincon Pacific Rwy, 1960. HO scale std. gauge - interchange with SP.
DCC-NCE, CMRI, JMRI