sanchomurphy

Hello everyone,

I am in the process of remodeling a bedroom and I am looking at ways to remodel it for a layout with less lift outs and more straight runs along the walls. The room is a typical 12' x 14' box. A 4' x 4' slider window is centered on the north wall. A 5' wide x 7' tall closet sits on the south end of the east wall. The 3' wide x 7' tall door sits on the west end of the south wall. 

Are there any articles online that give advice pertaining to remodeling the room for a layout?

Advice in this forum would help as well.

 

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Reply 0
traintalk

Here is my blog

Attached is a link to my MRH Blog talking about the modules that I am working on in my spare bedroom. The bedroom is 12 x 16 feet and the modules are in an L shape 10 x 14 feet and 2 feet deep.

The layout breaks down into 4 modules, two modules are 5 feet long and one module is 6 feet long with a 4 x 4 foot corner module.

The modules have the backdrop and overhead integrated into each module with removable legs. Each module was measured to go up my stairs and through the bedroom door. The layout is designed to go with me when I move some day, so it is free standing self contained, nothing attached to the walls.

The design requires a little carpentry, but nothing extreme. 

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/free-standing-modules-12201979

--Bill B.

Reply 0
Jackh

A few Ideas

Take the closet doors off and hide them somewhere safe in case you move.

Put up a couple of shelves on some sort of brackets. Use these to test which is preferred height. Something close to eye level or somewhere around waist height.

The window...Plan for narrower bench work there in case you want to open it.

The door, don't use a lift out, use a lift bridge instead.

There is an article series in RMC, Sept -Dec 2005 by a Don Spiro? who converted his office into a layout space. He used a rail and bracket system. Rails are the type with 2 parallel holes. Makes it more stable for the shelves. He attached a styrene backdrop to the top of the rails. The brackets and rails make it pretty easy to allow for river beds. And the brackets I think come in a length up to 16 or 18 inches. His bench work was up to 24 inches in places. They also allow for a screw through the bracket from the bottom up to fasten the bench work to the bracket. It is very sturdy and I think he used 1x2's with foam on top of that. The rails come in a variety of lengths from 1ft to 5 or 6ft. You can add a lot of shelves for whatever under the layout.

Jack 

Reply 0
Benny

...

Cover the window in place with a 1" foam sheet plug.

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Benny's Index or Somewhere Chasing Rabbits

Reply 0
choops

Every situation is going to

Every situation is going to be different.  You will just need to sketch up what you have and try to roughly design some main line routes.  (use pencil and paper for this step)  don't try to squeeze too much into a space either.  If you find you need can get a longer main line or addition scene by changing the closet openings or block the window.  You need to decide if the change is worth it or not.

Start drawing and posting what you have done.  We are here to help.

Steve

Reply 0
prostreetamx

windows and doors

I was pretty lucky that the wife did not give me any restrictions about covering or removing doors or windows. My loft had 2 windows at one end that were an issue so I sheetrocked over them both and they will be going away soon with my attached garage addition. I removed and stored away the closet doors. I still have one remaining window but I put some foamboard in the hole and ran the backdrop over it. I also built a bridge over the stairway landing and cut a hole in the wall to add a second room for staging. I have no issue with patching the holes in the future since I can patch it pretty easy. I do not intend to ever move so it will probably be the next guys problem anyway. If having a pretty much permanent built-in layout is not an option, sectional is your best option. I use a swing away section in the only location where tracks are in the way. The rest of the layout is walk-around.

Reply 0
dantept

Window vs. Building Code

Before you block off the window or remove it, check the local code: it might require the window as an emergency exit (depending on location of room and possibly other factors).

Dante

Reply 0
Neil Erickson NeilEr

Building code

Dante has a point. I doubt you will ever use this as a bedroom while building the railroad but it may still be classified as a bedroom. My thoughts were more toward natural light and ventilation ... Maybe a supply fan for some fresh air?

Neil

Neil Erickson, Hawai’i 

My Blogs

Reply 0
Benny

...

This is why I cover with a foam plug.  The foam is cut to the shape of the window and then pressed into the edge behind the sill.  When you wan tto return the room back to its old use, you simply take the foam out.  I have also built boxes around windows, whereas I wanted to leave the curtains on the wall, and thus used foam sheet to build a box that was 4" deep around the curtains on the wall and then put a larger sheet across the window.  End result, my railroad was completely uninterrupted by the window.  My work further did nothing to reduce the quality of the window.

Natural light is your enemy.  It fades your paint, your scenery, and makes it difficult to take nice pictures.

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Benny's Index or Somewhere Chasing Rabbits

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