Comments?

I watched it

amd it made me salivate for more. I'd sign up for tmtv immediately based on what I saw but my internet access is slow and metered. If the download stream is similar to a YouTube video I might be able to handle it but if it is heavier it won't work here. I"d love to be able to make it happen for me.

Can you watch Vimeo videos easily?

TrainMasters backend is Vimeo. Can you watch Vimeo videos easily?

To find out, go to the free Scale Trains video on the TMTV site and select the alternate (Vimeo native) player. It defaults to SD (not HD) which is smaller than an HD video stream by about 4x.

I watched it!

I'm eagerly waiting for the next part.

I've used acrylics in a similar manner, but I see a bunch of new tricks here that I am looking forward to trying out!

And on a side note, I found it amusing that Joe's dining room shelf is kitsch is rolling stock

Cheers!

Gary brought those

Gary brought those as things to weather. I picked the SP caboose ... no bias, of course!

So we stuck a bunch of the other things Gary brought up on the nick-nack shelves in my dining room to give the background a bit more railroady feel. It was cheap and fast!

Excellent!

Very good tutorial; especially the seamingly real time step by step demonstration.  Gary's work speaks for itself; great to see the breakdown and steps required to achieve realistic results.  Also appreciate the questions and clarification seeking from you, Joe, on the techniques employed and the reasoning behind it.

5 stars, looking forward to the next installment!

James

One question I just thought of ...

One question I just thought of ...

I was wondering the same thing Joe.

Gary, what say you?

Green, Yellow, Orange Craft Paint

I read Gary's Color Transition Fades With Acrylic Paints Part 1 on the Rustbucket Forum. He uses green, yellow, and orange paints to fade a BN boxcar. It's an interesting process.

I've learned lots from Gary and others and the Rustbucket Forum. 

I just watched it...

I learned a lot just in this first part. Some of it I had kind of figured out (trial and ERROR). But now I know what I can do to get my basic fleet of cars to look used... Which is what I really want. Not sure I want to go full "rustbucket" but what a fantastic start! I'm going to have to check out the Transition Fades With Acrylic Paints Part 1 on the Rustbucket Forum! Thanks for that Eric!

Joe's dining room / hobby shop...

My swing shift work schedule keeps me sleeping during most of the day, rendering me "bright eyed and bushy tailed" for toil in the evening, otherwise I would have spotted this and responder sooner. My apologies.

Anyway,...It is interesting to view this from the other side of the room. I forgotten that I had shaved my face clean when we did this,..so I was shocked a bit when I clicked "play" and saw the clean shaven me and a bearded Joe sitting in his dining room,.(.converted "hobby shop") with models strategically displayed on the knick knack shelves behind us by Joe and Barry! lol.  To say it was merely fun doing the TMTV series that day is an extreme understatement. Salutations to Joe, / MRH  for having me there and to Barry for spending all that time behind the camera. Thank's fellas!

Okay, as to your inquiry Joe & Bill,...the answer is yes! I definitely will pre mix green and a golden yellow ochre (antique yellow) craft paint when addressing a fade for Burlington Northern equipment. If I can generate a reasonable color mix of the pastel powders, I will give the BN car the same overlay with the powders to even the colors to a less transparent base coat. I wrote an article a few years ago on the subject...

http://theweatheringshop.com/articlegcolor.html

I found it ironic that you tapped on Burlington Northern Joe! that made it a simple task of adding the link above to lend a more in depth explanation in how I go about fading and weathering cars colored other than "Tuscan" or "box car red". For all other colors, i.e. blue, yellow, orange, red, black pink...etc. I will always premix the fade color on a stand by pallet,  using this "Color Transition Fade" technique with diluted craft acrylics that I developed a few years back. I found that using just White acrylic whether brushed on or shot through an airbrush can render a noneffective look for realism. The "White Fade" techniques can generally be applied in some rare instances (mostly with Titanium white oil paint) to create faded hues without making the model look like it has spend a couple of days in a sub zero freezer. Although the Color Transition method with diluted acrylics might look unorthodox and downright a mess when  being applied, It can be reward through patience if the wet paint is delicately applied in discriminating layers and dried in between application with a hair dryer or more to my speed,..the space heater.

Gary Christensen

OK, I'm in

Having Gary on board was the hook you needed to catch me! 

I'm now a member of TMTV.

Excellent!

Ditto what james660660 said.

Art

Interesting - well, there's more coming

Interesting ... well, there's 2-3 more segments coming with Gary, then Mike Confalone's weathering videos (showing various cars and locos) will be coming in January I am expecting (plus to DVD/download if you prefer that over streaming internet video). We're also talking with the Weathering Shop guys about doing more of their methods on TMTV in 2016.

Also if you like weathering, check out Ralph Renzetti's segments on TMTV back in season 1. Ralph did that tunnel motor for me - the one that's coming on the cover of the January 2016 issue of MRH.

I'd prefer to see buildings

being weathered. Mike does all his own building weathering. I think that takes a gentle touch too as there are ways that buildings accumulate grime or moisture being soaked up from the bottom. He does a nice job with that. It's not about dusting it all over with pastels and calling it a day.

Charles

Just watched

I've read all of Gary's how-to's, but nothing is like a video for me.  It just shows the subtleties of things and puts the words in perspective.  This video series is worth the price of the TMTV membership all by itself, but then there are so many other good things on there.  Just a great resource.

Fantastic!

Joe,

Great stuff, I am fan of Gary's work ( and he's a fellow Oregonian.. ) I used some of his weathering techniques on one of my Motive Power AP locomotives. I don't think we can ever have too much on this subject.

Well done!

Ross A.

I loved it

I think most people learn better by watching it being done firsthand, this video was like I was sitting at Joe's dining room table with them, watching and learning. It now seems so simple, as in the past typically I would try to us powders alone to fade my rolling stock, which is better than leaving them shiny new, but this is that little extra kick I need to advance my weathering. And yes, I would like to see structures weathered as well, plastic and wood.

.

Watched last night..

Very good presentation of techniques.  Looking forward to more.

I did have to chuckle over Joe repeatedly remarking on the space heater concept.  You may need to get out and around more Joe!  MonsterRailroad first taught me about using hot air to speed drying time several years ago in his weathering videos.

This should be a good series!

Regards,

Feedback

Dear Joe,

You said you wanted feedback... 
Overall, a fantastic tutorial, definitely a caboose-load of tips to try on my next few cars,
can't wait for Pt 2.

Only real issues would be:

- Please save the "example prototype caboose JPG" you find online, and cut it into the video as required.
The trying-to-focus as the camera shoots a tablet displaying the image is a poor substitute for editing the image in properly.

Ditto when later on, a "look at this part of the car" leads to a shot of the tablet upside-down to the viewer's perspective at 3:17, or the significant glare at 20:26. The presentation has obviously been cut/edited,
and the difference between editing in a still JPG for demo purposes, and a cut-away to the upside-down tablet shot, is effectively no-different from a "how long it takes/hard it is to edit" standpoint.

- Take the 30 sec to get a "nice clean still shot" of the "factory fresh" model right at the beginning of the shoot,
then use it in either "split-screen" or "cross-fade" form to give a better/clearer "A/B comparison".
(The flipping-the-car-round kinda got there,
but again, if you're going to do post-production editing anyway,
it's only a few seconds more to give that added "pro polish" to the final presentation).

Apart from that, the lighting was good,
camera angles and general "follow the action" flow (both "in camera" and "in the edit") was good,
and audio was solid...

Again, can't wait for Pt 2...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Prototype photo

The reason for not showing the prototype photo was out of respect for the owner of the copyright.  It's fair use to show them looking at an image on the internet via tablet but to download it and show it full-screen would clearly violate the photographer's copyright.

This situation was "Hey, Gary's here.  What can we do to show folks how he does his craft?"  Had this been shot in-studio it would have looked a bit different.  It's difficult to get everything you want at the dining room table with what you have on hand.  Then in post-production one has to justify how many resources to invest in trying to make it perfect.  We added it as bonus material with the hope of being able to do more with The Weathering Shop crew down the road.

Awesome!

A video is definitely worth 10,000 words! Those Rustbucketeers are cutting edge and putting them on camera is a huge deal for the average modeler. Like someone said, seeing someone's technique in action is vastly superior to reading an article. More kudos to you Joe and Barry. Not only are you providing great content you are advancing the hobby more than any other media source. Thank you!

A big thumbs up

watched it on my IPad in the Vimeo mode and everything worked well. This segment really helped answer some issues I was having with removing the weathering from the lettering on the model. This tip alone was worth the price of admission. I'm a huge fan of Gary's work and really appreciate this series.

Are we going to get to see Gary apply his hand painted grafitti?

Link to the photo