Straight - No Chaser...

I've used it straight from the bottle in my airbrush with no problems.  I use it as a preliminary coat over weathering powders as it won't diminish / dissolve the powder the way Dullcoat tends to do so.  Once dry, then a layer of DC to knock down the shine. 

Jeff Youst  EL Marion 2nd Sub 1964

Days of Future passed.....

.... since they changed the name to Pledge.

I hope you can use it straight out of the bottle since I have been doing that for the last 6-8 years. 

I also mix it about 4-5 parts Future to 1 part Tamiya flat base paint to make a flat finish. 

I've never used it in a model

I've never used it in a model railroad application buy I used to use it straight from a plant sprayer bottle to put gloss on model rockets and protect decals. Literally drip dry. I'd do a test application though.

Michael

Future is the most durable

Future is the most durable and the most economical gloss coat you can get.  I've been using it forever on all my model projects.  Spray thin multiple coats and give it plenty of dry time, it's self leveling and will continue to settle downhill, even after you think its dry.

Cleaning

So what do you use to clean the Future out of your airbrush?

Settling downhill

It sure does! I've had to "chisel" it of of a couple of boxcar door tracks when I used too much and it flowed down the side of the car. 

I do like it now that I'm much more careful.

Cleaning airbrush

I use lacquer thinner.

THE GUIDE to Future

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

All you ever wanted to know, including what it's called around the world.

"So what do you use to clean

      Future is water based so a good cleaning with water or windshield washer fluid  will do it most of the time. If there's a buildup you need to remove the recommended solvent is ammonia household cleaner diluted with water. In practice I very rarely spray future , most of the time I just brush it under decals and apply them wet. If I want to spray a clear coat on a whole car I use a product designed for the job such as dullcoat.....DaveB

READ Matt's link

No wait, copy and paste to a word doc for "future" reference and then read it.   Literally everything you wanted to know about it and a worthy read (and keep for later)

Steve

I read it

But I still have a question. I am old school and use Walther's SolvaSet for my decals. It has never failed me. How does Future react with a strong decal setting solution?

SolvaSet

I've used SolvaSet over the Future without issues.

" I am old school and use

They are two different methods. If you set the decals in Future you don't need the Solvaset. Future fills all the microscopic voids that Solvaset tries to melt the decal into. However Future doesn't  work well on decals over ribs or large rivets as there is too much space under them to fill so in those cases it's best to apply the decal on glossy paint then Solvaset it down flat. If the decal is going on a flat surface I always use the wet Future method, if it's a surface with protrusions that the decal must bend around I use normal decal application and Solvaset ( Future only fills under decals, it doesn't soften them to snuggle down over rivets,etc.)  It takes some practice to learn which method will work best on a given model. The decision needs to be made in the painting stage as a car decaled with wet Future can be left in flat paint while a car to be decaled with water needs a glossy paint finish. Once a decal is applied with Future it's glued and set in place and Solvaset won't fix it if there's a problem so their compatibility is not really important. Future can be applied as a clear coat over decals set with Solvaset but I've found that  clear coats such as Dullcoat designed for hobby use work better in that application.......DaveB

Thanks DaveB for the

Thanks DaveB for the clarification of your methods. Much appreciated.

"Thanks for the

   You're very welcome, glad to share.  Since you already know how to decal with Solvaset you will probably find it interesting to try the Future method. The big advantage I've found for it is the ability to decal on a dull paint job which saves adding another coat to a car or adding gloss to the paint when spraying. Using acrylic paint and drying it with a heat gun it's possible to paint and decal a car in one session if it's a car suitable for the Future method of decal application. Cars with lots of rivets are better done with Solvaset as are cars with ribs that can  be done by melting the decals over the ribs.However  I do the modern cars with large ribs with Future by cutting the decal into segments that will fit between the ribs then after application I paint in the missing connection over the ribs, I've found this easier than trying to bend the decals over the ribs and get them to lay tight against the ribs....DaveB

Ok

Ok...you all have my interested peaked. I guess I am going to have to buy some and try it. Outside of the buildup, any other negative results ? I like the idea that you can also make it into a flat finish.

Michael

FWIW: trying latest Pledge floor care product

 Since running out of Future years ago, I've been using the Pledge product in the middle bottle.  Now I cannot find that anymore, and no longer see it listed on the S.C.Johnson & Sons website.  Apparently the name has changed again (just guessing).  The two flanking bottles seem to be exactly same stuff:  same viscosity, same smell, levels the same, and leaves a nice glossy surface.  YMMV  I got mine through walmart.com.

      Justin