David Calhoun

The wood craftsman caboose kit is coming along and, fortunately, I learned a few things before I got started:

1. Read the directions. That's what they're there for.

2;. Measure twice, then measure again. If it doesn't look right; it ain't.

3. Cut inside the pencil lines with a few small fine cuts first.

4. Cut well inside the pencil lines. You can always trim so windows fit snugly.

5. Paint before you assemble; and that includes the edges which the finished model instruction photos don't show.

6. Take your time. It's not a race; that's why it's called a "project" and your finished model will look that much better.

7. Let 24 hour glue set for 24 hours. (It's in the small print on the label.)

8. Test fit adjoining parts. Modify if necessary. If it doesn't fit right; it ain't right - fix it!

9. If you are colorblind, ask your wife; they paint the ends of those "little sticks" for a reason and always cut from the other end so the color remains.

10. PATIENCE. The railroad will still be there when you get done, whether it takes you a week or a month to finish your project.

More photos to come as progress is made. - - with  Peggy Peckworth Jennings at home in Carlisle, PA.

11_05_55.jpg 

13_22_34.jpg 

Chief Operating Officer

The Greater Nickel Plate

Reply 0
Pelsea

Good start

How did you do the paint job?

pqe

Reply 0
Mycroft

I've been told

You want to paint the back side to prevent warpage.

James Eager

City of Miami, Panama Limited, and Illinois Central - Mainline of Mid-America

Plant City MRR Club, Home to the Mineral Valley Railroad

NMRA, author, photographer, speaker, scouter (ask about Railroading Merit Badge)

 

Reply 0
David Calhoun

Paint

Brush work after sealing and sanding - first coat. Will lightly sand with oo steel wool and second light coat. Will coat reverse side. Planning on adding a seated "conductor" in the  cupola and a standing one on the rear platform. Have used sealer and sanding on all wood pieces.

Chief Operating Officer

The Greater Nickel Plate

Reply 0
Pelsea

Brushwork

Do you mind sharing what type of brush and what type of paint? Getting a nice even coat without resorting to an airbrush is one of my current challenges. Tips on technique would be much appreciated.

pqe

Reply 0
ray schofield

Wood and water based paints

PQE

Great start and great list. 

I am curious about something that bothers me with model building as well as home projects alike. The issue which also haunted me during my years in construction. When wood of any kind, but especially wood doors came to a jobsite especially wood had to be sealed with a solvent based paint (Never water based) or the warranty was voided. The least that happens with water based paint is it raises the grain, the worst is it warps the wood, and I have no idea how you sand anything but a flat surface and not destroy the detail. In fact one thing I like about wood because it has  some grain, it looks like WOOD. I always used Floquil, and still do. Not sure what I will do when I run out. Maybe try Scalecoat. A couple of photos of wood cabooses I built rter_opp.jpg awnings.JPG 

Reply 0
David Calhoun

Supplies

First off is a list of supplies: oo steel wool for sanding; spray can of sanding sealer; packet of variety brushes from Michaels and bright red Testors enamel paint from there; Xacto #11 blades; white and gel-type super glue.

A fine brush with sparse paint and full, even strokes along the grain was used after coats of sealer and sanding. Enamel is also used on white metal parts like stairs etc. Fine very pointed tip (from art store) brush is being used on small parts, especially those with crevices. 

Chief Operating Officer

The Greater Nickel Plate

Reply 0
ray schofield

Progress

David I was wondering how the caboose was coming? I still don't know how you avoid breaking small parts while sanding./ Here are my finished caboosese%20good.JPG w%281%29.JPG  

Reply 0
Reply