Mantua remotor

Cruizer

  I would consider using the "Helix Humper". Without using a  gearbox (a lot of  work) the new motor needs to be mounted so you can adjust the gear mesh depth to get good performance and low noise. You also may consider changing the existing motor magnets. I have not done this but super magnets are suppose to dramatically improve open frame motor performance.

                                                                                    Ray Schofield

Like existing motor

the worm and motor shaft are on an angle with the chassis.  The location of the worm on the shaft and the motor location ensure the proper contact with the gear.  The metal frame that holds the motor is held by a bolt.  This can be moved back or forward as required for the proper contact.

i have done several magnet upgrades on this style open frame motor.  They significantly reduce the current draw at voltage.  The maximum draw bar remains respectable.  

Since you have the NWSL motor, you should use it.

Motor Mount

Cruizer,

I did a decoder install on a Manuta 0-4-0 for a friend a couple of years ago. He had already installed a can motor in his engine. From your attached picture I see you have used an open motor frame with the can motor inside. That would work. The angle should be the same as the original motor or close to it. The only thing that is neccssary is that you have proper backlash between the worm and worm wheel.

Here's a link to my write up on that Mantua engine. Scroll down. In the last picture is sort of shows the motor mount, plus the video shows the way the motor is mounted.

https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/lenz-decoder-install-in-a-mantua-040-switcher-engine-12195238

Bernd

Nicely done

That gives me hope of saving some brass locos that now only add gravity to my shelves. The video is the proof in the pudding and shows that neat work and install. I'm glad that your hiatus didn't last long as I am glad as your posts and comments are still relevant.

The prices quoted for re-power kits noted above seem really high. Other forums discuss this and excellent motors seem available for $30-$40. Decoder prices seem to be drooping all the time and with battery power along with Bluetooth controllers it seems as though the hobby is going to be changing again - for the better? 

One thing for sure is that older kits and models may not have to worry about track power or isolation from the chassis if battery powered. 

Neil

Thank You Neil

A bit of mechanical tinkering on some of these older engines improves them to a point of being able to install DCC. I use R/C with track power. BTW, this was my first conversion for such an engine. I have a roundhouse full of Mantuas I want to upgrade with wheel wipers and can motors. I have two Mantua open frame motors that I'm going to experiment on and try to install ball bearings on the armature shaft and use a neodymium magnet. I'm betting these motors would then be able to be used with decoders. We'll see when I get the first motor converted.

Bernd

Consider a new motor mount

I have re-motored a few of the old HOn3 brass engines. The method there is to fabricate a new motor mount out of a thin piece of folded brass. The motor is then attached to the brass mount with Silicon caulking adhesive.

The Silicon caulking adhesive isolates the motor, which then allows DCC to be installed. If you use the original metal mount, it would be difficult to isolate the motor which is required for DCC.

The Loco Doc website has several examples and pictures of how this is done.

http://locodoc.com/SuperGlideDriveHOn3.html

--Bill B.

Motors for DCC

Todays can motors have two terminals that are electrically isolated from the can itself. Even some of the older open frame motors had both brushes insulted from the frame. The motors such as used In Athearns were built so the frame could be used as one side of the electrical circuit. So you don't have to use silicone sealant. You can use the screw mounts giving a greater option for mounting the motor.

Bernd