Defines, Coloring Siding, Door, Roof

Additional Sandbox Build Threads:
Small Miner's Cabin: (HO Scale)
https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/small-miners-shack-harriman-plans-12200893
-- Base hues for wood coloring
-- Carving Plaster Castings
-- Coloring Plaster Castings for Colorado Clear Creek area.
-- Mortar line coloring in plaster cast stone walls.
-- Faded/worn paint on individual boards

Colin's Cabin: (HO Scale)
http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/23082
/> -- Base Yellow-Orange Hues for Wood Coloring.
-- Verifying Coloring Plaster Castings for Colorado Clear Creek area.
-- Simulated Concrete Using Stripwood and Mortar Line Coloring Mix.
-- Leadville, Colorado: pictures of Scandinavian Influence on Structures
-- Dry-Brushing with Builders-in-Square Yellow Wood Stain.
-- Coloring and Install of Laser-Cut window Products vs. Styrene Window Castings.

Seth's Cabin (HO Scale)
https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/seths-cabin-harriman-plans-12200912
-- Board and batten siding how to.
-- Coloring stripwood with Prismacolor markers including evaluation.
-- Using Sandable Hard Gesso to represent concrete texture in HO scale.
-- Testing of colored graphite pencils to color rolled paper roofing paper stock edges.

As I'm using the build to test/play with techniques, I will not be constructing the structure as suggested in Harriman's book.

I will attempt to show/describe:
-- The effect or technique which I want to achieve or try out.
-- How I approached the effect/technique(s), what tools I used and in what order so that others may be able to reproduce the effect(s) should one wish to capture the effect or try out the technique.
-- The results of the various attempts, and what I think I may want to consider for the future.

My overall goal is to create a notebook for future reference. I hope the notebook will also contain your thoughts and suggestions as that will only add perspective to the notes.

I will not be building the structure to my usual standards as these builds will be in the sandbox. As such, I'll be building the models only to layout or front of layout quality. I probably will not keep any of the models, but will donate the completed structures or mini-dioramas to a few local clubs.

Build Goals:
1) Peeling paint using board-by-board clapboard siding.
2) Carved crumbling stone foundation(??)
3) Corrugated metal roofing with two different stages of weathering/coloring on opposite sides of the metal sheet.
4) Continue the study of laser cut window products in scratch building. Determine if over-sized sill looks strange.
5) Additional texture on individual stones in a carved stone foundation.
6) New documentation format.

Defines:
In the past two threads, the documentation format has made it difficult visually and I have restated various techniques multiple times. I will now only refer to a given technique by name and define the technique only once in the 'Defines'.

Tools and Techniques
This will become a subset of steps within the general construction sequence. The "Tools and Technique" header will indicate a new process or technique for future reference. The new or modified process will be denoted by using a letter following the general construction sequence number. For example:
Roof
1) Color sub-roof material with marker.
2) Measure and cut sub-roof.
Tools and Techniques
3a) Use new ACME corner cutter to cut sub-roof template.
4b) Squash coyote with roof underside to avoid coloring of top side.
5) Draw shingle row guidelines.

Lid Stain
1) Wire brush cut wood ends on both surfaces.
2) Stain stripwood cut ends with only minor wicking of stain solution.
3) Control the volume of stain applied by using only the stain remaining in the lid after shaking the solution bottle. It may be necessary to tilt the lid to obtain some of the solution.
4) Dip the wood into the stain and then pull the piece of wood between the forefinger and thumb, applying moderate pressure. Pull the wood with the fingers pinching the wood from the middle of the wood piece towards the end. This will pull the stain to the end of the wood piece.

For the following two techniques apply wash using brush hairs by ferrule to control volume of wash applied. (Use brush hairs between lines in drawing below.)
 

Brush Top - Pull
1) Use the brush hairs by the ferrule to control the amount of stain applied.
2) Load the brush with wash.
3) Lightly tap on paper towel to unload excessive stain.
4) Lightly touch brush hairs just below ferrule to wood piece and pull brush placing stain on the edge with extra stain going onto the surface opposite of pull.

Brush Top - Roll
1) Load brush with stain.
2) Lightly tap on paper towel to unload excessive stain.
3) Lightly lay brush hairs just below ferrule on wood edge and roll the brush to deposit the stain.
4) This allows some control of with amount of wicking by length of time in contact with the wood, the amount of brush pressure and the amount of wash loaded in the brush.

e-sand
Use emery board to sand object. Emery board may be cut to fit sanding need.

GP-sand
Use green paint and varnish stripper pad or kitchen scrub pad to sand surface. Fold or cut pad as needed.

sand
Standard sanding techniques using a sanding block, Northwest Shortline Tru-Sander, sanding wand or small 4-inch power sander such as a Jarmac.

Grain wood
1) Apply following to both surfaces of wood pieces.
2) Use file card or stiff welders wire brush (wire bristles stiffer than wire paint scraping brush) to add grain to wood. Draw, never push, the wood under the tool with medium pressure.
3) Use a brass or steel wire brush to add additional grain texture.
4) Scribe a few longer grain lines with tip of #11 blade.
5) Sand with green abrasive pad.

Polish wood
Use photo copy paper or emery board for baby finger nails to sand object lightly.

Brush ends
1)All stripwood surfaces or both sides of stripwood are held on flat surface.
2) Hold piece(s) flat on surface to to the cut end.
3) Use medium pressure and 6-8 strokes of a wire brush.
4) Brush needs to go from all bristles on flat surface onto wood end, going about 1/4 inch past the cut wood end.
5) Lid stain ends with light A-I wash or Silverwood unless otherwise noted.

BUILD NOTE:

Well, I decided to try a different approach to the siding and came up with a method of using Silverwood & Yellow Wood stains along with some Prismacolor markers to create lots of color variation within individual 1x8 scale clapboards.

I'll let those of you who are interested carefully study the results pictured below. Note the multiple colors in the individual boards. This build will focus on easily obtaining  the colors within individual clapboards using colored markers as the main tool to color the stripwood.  I'll include detailed instructions on the use of the various stains, brush types and another dirty trick I've used to easily obtain the multicolored boards shown.

Tools & Technique: Templates
Material:
A) Mat-board: Cresent Mfg.# 948. Two sides colored; beige/white.

1) Cut one long strip of mat board 56 scale foot long by 16 scale foot wide.
2) Cut long strip into two strips; 32 foot long and 24 foot long.
3) Square cut edges with True Sander.
4) Cut the 32 foot long strip into two 8 foot wide strips.
5) Square cut edges on True Sander.
6) Cut 6 inches off the two end pieces.
7) Cut the 24 foot long (short piece) into two 12 foot long pieces. These will be the end walls.
8) Mark the end walls with a line at 8 foot height. Use the side walls as a template to obtain the correct 8' height. This will insure that all walls are the same height.
9) Note on both sides the "top" and "Bottom" sections of the walls.
10) Cut one (or both) of the 32 foot by 8 foot walls in half. This will produce the two 16 foot by 8 foot walls for the structure sides. Note that there is also one (or two if cut earlier) practice walls.
11) Square all sides of walls with True Sander.
12) Measure and cut door and window openings. Cut window openings to fit Laser-Art Structures four pane window #BRA-727 with additional 2 scale inches in the vertical and horizontal for lining mat-board opening with 1x stripwood.
13) Measure and cut roof angles on end walls.
14) Color all edges, openings and both sides of the mat-board with Prismacolor French Grey 90%, PM-163.

Tools & Technique: Siding - Wood Grain, Base coloring and Knot Holes
Material: Kappler 12 inch lengths scale strip wood:
A) 1x8 (15)
b) 1x2 (1)
C) 1x10 (1)
D) 6x6 (scrap piece - used for marking clapboard spacing.)
E) Silverwood Stain ( http://www.builders-in-scale.com/bis/parts-weather.html )
F) Prismacolor marker French Grey 60% #PM-160
G) Prismacolor marker French Grey 40% #PM-111
H) Prismacolor marker Cool Grey 50% #PM-112
I) Prismacolor marker Warm Grey 50% #PM-103
J) Prismacolor marker Parchment #PM-205
K) Prismacolor marker Sienna Brown #PM-65
L) Prismacolor marker Eggplant #PM-213
M) Yellow Wood Stain #132 ( http://www.builders-in-scale.com/bis/parts-weather.html )
N) Fan Brush 20/0 ( http://www.hancockfabrics.com/Soft-Grip-Golden-Taklon-Fan-Brush-Size-20-0_stcVVproductId47603436VVviewprod.htm )
O) Light brown stain mix. 30:70 Noodler's non-waterproof ink Kiowa Pecan and ETOH. ( http://www.refillfinder.com/catalog/bottled-ink/noodlers-ink-kiowa-pecan-bottled-ink-3oz-541.html )
P) Fine powered dirt. (Dirt sifted through 2 layers of woman's panty hose.)
Q) Delta Ceramcoat Paint, Charcoal #02136.

15) Grain both sides strip wood.
16) Add knot holes at random using a #64 wire bit in pin vice. I drilled a total of 17 holes.
17) GP-sand.
18) Stain all stripwood with one coat of Silverwood applied with dabber.
19) Color three 1x8 wood strips with PM-160, both sides.
20) Color both sides of remaining wood strips with PM-111.
21) GP-sand.
Note: When applying siding, cut individual siding into 8 foot lengths as needed and lid-stain prior to gluing to sub-wall. Some random boards with end brushing prior to lid-stain and applied to butt-joint will enhance weathered siding look, but do not brush ends on majority of siding.
22) Mark wall sides with vertical lines where structure frame would be. The lines will become cutting guides for the clapboard butt-joints.
23) Glue 1x2 kick board flush with bottom of wall edge. Allow to dry.
24) Cut a few strips of 1x8 into 8-foot lengths.
lid-stain all cut ends. Use light A-I wash for lid-stain.
25) Glue bottom 1x8's clapboard row flush with wall bottom. A small part of the boards will be over the 1x2 kicker applied earlier. Allow to dry.
26) Using a 6x6 square piece of stripwood held against the top edge of the first row of clapboards, mark the sub-wall at 6 inches.
27) Use a square or triangle and draw a guideline on the sub-wall for placement of the next clapboard row. This will provide about a 2 inch overlay on the clapboard siding, providing about a scale 6 inch exposed clapboard face. Make sure to keep guidelines horizontal on the wall by using a square or triangle flush with the vertical wall edge to draw the horizontal guidelines for applying the clapboards.
28) Add nail holes (if desired) to clapboard butt joints as the siding is being applied.
29) Cut siding to size and trim overhang edges flush with wall template edges and window/door openings as each siding board is glued into position.
30) On walls with all clapboards applied, color all mat-board, wood edges and openings with Prismacolor PM-112 using the fine tip.
Tools and Techniques: Weathering Siding
(31a) Using a 20/0 fan brush and diluted Yellow Wood Stain (dilute 50:50 with ETOH), lightly brush the siding horizontally using a semi-dry brush.
(32b) With wall still damp, repeat above process with diluted Yellow Wood/Silverwood (50:50).
(33c) With wall still damp, apply light A-I wash horizontally across siding.
(34d) With wall damp, apply light wash of light brown stain horizontally across wall.
(35e) With wall still damp, drybrush light A-I wash vertically, bottom to top of wall.
(36f) With wall still damp, using medium pressure and broad tip, draw PM-112 across wall vertically bottom to top of wall.
(37g) With wall still damp, repeat at random with PM-103, vertically bottom to top of wall.
(38h) With wall still damp, repeat at random with PM-205, vertically bottom to top of wall.
(39i) With wall still damp, repeat at random with PM-65, vertically bottom to top of wall. This will remove the green hues.
(40j) With wall still damp, repeat at random with PM-213, vertically bottom to top of wall.
(41k) Rub wall sides with fine powdered dirt using moderate pressure. This will remove the gloss/sheen from the walls.
(42l) Remove as much dirt as possible using a large soft brush, such as a #10 bright.
(43m) Using same brush, flood wall with clear ETOH, wiping brush horizontally.
(44n) Wipe off excess ETOH with paper towel or soft rag. Use light to moderate pressure and wipe horizontally with clapboard siding.
(45) Color wall interior with Delta Ceramcoat Charcoal #02136.

Window
Materials:
A) 1x10
b) 1x6
C) Light brown stain
D) Light A-I wash
E) Branchline Laser-Art 4-pane window #BRA-727 ( http://www.branchline-trains.com/laserart_structures/parts/windows/windows.html )
F) Prismacolor marker Cocoa Bean #PM-214

(46) Grain and stain 1x10 sill piece with Silverwood followed with light brown A-I stain.
(47) Cut sill to fit and glue into place.
(48) Grain and stain 1x6. Cut to fit and frame the remaining three edges. Add header piece first.
(49) Color window parts with PM-214.
(50) Install window per window kit instructions.

Door
Materials:
A) 1x8 stained with light brown stain.

51) Line door opening with 1x8. (I used a 1x6 in error and will not have lip to cover clapboard siding. This may show up in the pictures.)
(52) Cut, end brush and lid-stain the three pieces to line the door. Instal the header first. Make sure all wood is flush with inside wall providing a lip for the siding.

Brace Walls
Materials:
A) Scrap 10x10
b) Delta Ceramcoat Paint, Charcoal #02136.

 

(53) Use 10x10 stripwood to brace walls.
(54) Paint all bracing the same dark color as used before on the interior walls. Allow to cure dry.

NOTE: Now is a good time to review scrap box/parts box for parts or possible mini-scenes to be added to build for extra detail. Widow shades??

Glue Walls Together
(55) Glue the walls together. Use squares to keep the walls vertical and structure square.
(56) Use 6-inch and 12-inch mill files and sanding blocks to match the long wall sides to the end roof angles.
(57) Touch up filed/sanded edges as needed with Prismacolor markers.

Add Corner Trim
Material: Kappler 12 inch lengths scale strip wood:
A) 1x8 (1)
b) Light Brown wash
C) Light A-I wash
D) Silverwood
E) Prismacolor marker Cool Grey 60% #PM-113
F) Prismacolor marker Parchment #PM-205
G) Prismacolor marker Sienna Brown #PM-65

NOTE: Stain and color both sides of 1x8 to allow greater selection of wood colors to match siding.

(58) Grain 1x8 and then stain with Silverwood.
(59) Apply light brown wash to 1x8 with #2 soft filbert.
(60) Add random short lines using fine tip on PM-113.
(61) Repeat using fine tip on PM-205.
(62) Repeat using fine tip on PM-65.
(63) Cut stripwood into eight 10 scale foot lengths.
(64) Add corner trim, cutting trim flush with wall edges as trim is added.
(65) Use emery board nail file to sand trim edges flush with wall edges as needed.
(66) Brush Top-Roll light A-I wash on cut trim ends. Use a soft #2 round brush to apply the wash.
(67) Using the soft #2 round brush, dry-brush face and edges of trim with light A-I wash.

Sub Roof and Prime Roofing Material
Material:
A).015 Bristol Board. I use Borden & Riley #120 Bristol Plate.
b) Campbell Corrugated Aluminum #804.
C) Rust-Oleum Light Grey Auto Primer (Spray Can) #2081.
D) Prismacolor marker Cocoa Bean #PM-214.
E) Prismacolor marker French Grey 70% #PM-161.

(68) Mark and cut out sub-roof.
(69) Mark and score peak center line.
(70) Color Bottom side of roof with PM-214.
(71) Color Top Side of roof with PM-161.
(72) Cut corrugated aluminum to size. I cut my panels to 3 foot lengths.
(73) Stick cut panels to doubled sided tape mounted on scrap cardboard.
(74) Lightly spray panels with primer #2081.

Door
Material:
A) 1x4 colored with Prismacolor Parchment #205.
b) Prismacolor marker Cool Grey 60% #PM-113 - Fine tip end used to color accents to stripwood.
C) Red Wood Stain #129 ( http://www.builders-in-scale.com/bis/parts-weather.html )
(75) Color 1x4 stripwood with PM-205.
(76) Add grey accents to 1x4 with PM-113.
(77) Flood 1x4 with light A-I wash and wipe dry with paper towel.
(78) Flood 1x4 stripwood with wash of Redwood:Alcohol in 1:10 solution. (Keep mixing was as it breaks out in to chromatic hues.)
(79) Grain 1x4 with file card.
(80) Measure door height opening and cut 1x4 into strips to fit.
(81) Assemble door from cut stripwood. Use double-sided scotch tape to hold door boards in place while adding frame. Remove door assembly from tape and allow to dry.
(82) Place door assembly face down on a paper towel. Flood the backside of the door assembly with Silverwood followed with a wash of full strength Redwood.
(83) Sand door assembly as need to obtain fit into door opening in structure.
(84) Using scrap wood, glue top door brace to inside of wall. Note that the interior wall bracing acts as bottom door brace.)
(85) Glue door into place. Door will fit recessed into door frame when viewed from front.
(86) Add door handle. I used a small piece of brass wire bent to form handle. This was painted with dark gunmetal Vallejo acrylic paint. The handle was then dusted with a dark brown and light tan weathering powders to reflect handling.

Roof
Material:
A) Primed Corrugated Roofing Panels.
b) 3-M Double Sided Transfer Tape #465.
C) Scrap 3x3.
D) Aleene's Tacky Glue

(87) Draw horizontal guidelines onto roof for assistance in placement of corrugated panels.
---- Make sure to allow for overlapping of panels when drawing guidelines.
(88) Starting at the bottom of roof side, apply 1 strip of transfer tape. Remove overhang excess tape prior to removing tape backing.
(89) Apply bottom row of panels, using scale 3x3 to establish overhang. Note that there will be a 2x10 fascia board added later resulting in a 1 inch metal overhang.
(90) Apply a second strip of transfer tape and cut to size for the second row of metal panels.
(91) Apply the second row of panels, overlapping the bottom row panels. Make sure that the panel seams do not match-up.
(92) Do the opposite side of the roof, adding the bottom and second row of panels.
---- Note: Add transfer tape for the roof peak after the tape for the 2nd panel row. Overlap the transfer tape as needed onto the 2nd row tape. Add the peak transfer tape prior to adding the second row of panels.
(93) Add the roof peak panels.
---- Form middle fold using a round toothpick placed in the middle of the panel and bend panel around toothpick.
---- Apply Aleene's Tacky Glue to underside of peak panels as the panels are added to the structure.
---- Allow to fully dry prior to proceeding with roof coloring.

The first picture is from the HO Silverado Mine build and I have lot's of documentation in the thread on how the coloring was done. ( http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=25712&whichpage=21 )

The second picture is where I'm trying to go with this cabin roof. The mine has more red/rust tones than the second picture. The second picture has a roof with more blue-grey over a violet tone, and this is what this practice roof is about, those blue-grey tones.

Just kind of a heads up on where I'm trying to go with this roof. I'm currently in the process of doing a few test panels to understand the dilution factors of the paint.

NOTE: The second picture is used with permission from:
http://members.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=nofrillsphotocds
 

Here is a pic of lots of different metal siding in various weathering stages here in the high country. Hope this can give you some additional ideas.

NOTE: This picture is used with permission from:
http://members.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=nofrillsphotocds
 

Color Roof

Color Roof
Materials:
A) Vallejo Burnt Cad. Red #034
b) Vallejo Grey Blue #061
C) Vallejo Black Red #035
D) Vallejo Violet Red #043
E) Vallejo Periscopes #309 - optional(Panzer Aces paint line)
F) FA-Water. (This is a solution of water with a Flow Aid added to assist in the acrylic paint to flow. The Flow Aid will help in providing a very thin wash, allowing base colors to show through.)

(94) Using a soft short mop brush (I'm using a 3/16th Wee Mop #5319S made by Silver) and a light stipple, color the roof with a wash of the Vallejo #034 and water in a 1:4 ratio. Allow to cure dry.
----NOTE: In the pictures below you can see the roof example being used as a color guide. In the close-up picture, note the roof panel on the ground, and the hue of the unexposed rust. This is the base color which I'm trying to capture in this step. You can see this in the deeply colored edges of the roof. I know it's scary now, but I have been known to post pictures of fuchsia colored water tanks in the past, so please bear with me.

Picture under cabin is used with permission from:
http://members.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=nofrillsphotocds

(95) Using a soft #5 round, color the roof with a stipple technique. Use Vallejo #061 in a light wash. The wash solution is 1:8 paint:FA-water.
(96) Immediately after applying the grey-blue wash, hold the structure so the roof is vertical and touch the long roof edge to a paper towel to draw off any excess wash. Do this for both sides of the roof. Allow to dry for approximately 20 minutes.
(97) Using a 12/0 fan brush mini ( http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/brushes-and-palette-knives/micro-mini-brushes.htm ) and using a moderate dry-brush, apply a light wash of Vallejo #35, brushing from the roof bottom to the top. The wash is 1:6 paint:FA-water.
(98) Immediately after applying the wash, remove excess wash as in step #96. Allow the roof to fully dry.

OK... final step for coloring the roof.

(99) Using a soft round #5 and a stippling technique, color the roof with a wash of Vallejo #813, Vallejo #043 and FA-water. The mix is 2:1:12.
(100) Lightly touch the long edges and roof peak ends to a paper towel to remove excess wash.
Tools and Technique: Roof Seam Shadows
(101a) Note: This is an optional step, but it will darken the roof panel seams to a natural shadow for the colors being used on the roof. Allow the roof to dry for about 20 minutes from the prior step before using the Vallejo Panzer Aces #309 in a wash. Using a soft #5 round brush, apply the wash from the bottom of the roof up to the roof peak. Stipple the wash as needed to get into any seams. The wash mix is 1:20, paint:FA-water.
(102b) Immediately remove any excess wash by lightly touching the roof edges to a paper towel. Allow the roof to dry.
(103) With the roof cured dry, apply the final wash with a #5 soft round and a stippling technique. The wash is Vallejo #061, Vallejo #043 and FA-water, 2:1:18.
(104) Immediately remove excess wash by touching the edges of the roof to a paper towel. Allow to dry.

Note: In the picture below the real maroon-violet color really does not show under the high lighting. Same with the blue-grey 'film'. When the structure is under less lighting, the roof gets very violet very quickly and the blue-grey stands out a bit more. Sorry... A photographer I am not, so this is the best I can show.

Final Pictures of this build.

The full sun pictures really misguide one as to the color of the roof. Here are a couple pictures in indirect sunlight which better show how the roof and wall coloring really appears.

A few items which I forgot to discuss, but you may want to know about.

Fascia
Materials:
A) 2x10 stripwood x1
b) SS Ltd. Pitched Roof Smokejack with Rain Cap #SS2452

(99) Grain and color the 2x10 to match corner trim boards.
(100) Using dividers, ( http://www.dickblick.com/products/alvin-academic-divider ) set the distance from the roof center line to the edge of the cardstock on roof end.
(101) Using the roof angle template, cut the fascia end boards to size/angle.
(102) Lid stain with light A-I both ends of the cut fascia boards.
(103) Use Aleene's Tacky glue to attach the fascia boards to the foil-cardstock edge.
(104) Repeat process for all edges of roof.

Add Smokejack
Materials:
A) SS Ltd. Pitched Roof Smokejack with Rain Cap #SS2452 ( http://scale-structures.com/pitched-roof-smokejack-with-rain-cap/ )
b) Master Series Paint Blackened Steel #09205 ( http://paizo.com/store/byCompany/r/reaperMiniatures/byProductType/paints/byColor/metal )
C)Tensocrom Lifecolor Smoke Paint #LC-DCS03 ( http://www.art-paints.com/Paints/Airbrush/Lifecolor/Tensocrom/Smoke/Smoke.html )
D) Delta CermaCoat Charcoal # 024360202W ( http://www.plaidonline.com/delta-ceramcoat-acrylic-paint-charcoal-2-oz/158/024360202W/product.htm )
E) Bragdon Weathering Powder Soot Black #FF-64 ( http://www.bragdonent.com/smpic/item4.htm )
F) Bragdon Weathering Grimy Grey #FF-67

(105) Prep and clean casting for painting.
(106) Paint casting with with MSP #09205. Allow to dry.
(107) Paint upper third of casting with Lifecolor Smoke.
(108) Determine where smokejack is to be placed. Adjust casting foot angle if needed.
(109) Drill a small hole for casting pin to fit into at proper roof location.
(110) Mix small amount of 5-minute epoxy with 1 drop of CermaCoat charcoal paint.
(111) Apply enough epoxy to obtain a small fillet of epoxy when casting is in place of roof.
(112) Add casting to roof making sure casting is vertical .
(113) When epoxy is mostly dry, lightly dust with Bragdon Grimy Grey weathering powder. Use a soft #5 mop brush to pull weathering powder down roof and to feather powder onto roof surface.
(114) Dust the upper part of the smoke jack with the Soot Black powder.
(115)Lightly dust small amount of Bragdon Soot on roof around smoke jack and feather onto roof.
(116) Using a #2 soft round, add a very light dusting of Grimy Gray to fascia board and down wall directly below casting. Feather powder as needed.

Touch-up Roof
Materials:
A) Vallejo paints used to color roof.
b) Yellow-Orange Rust colored soft pastels scraped to form a powder.
(117) Using light wash (you want the paint somewhat thick, like milk) of Vallejo #061 Grey blue, #043 Violet Red, #034 Burnt Cad. Red and water, color any spots on roof where the roof foil may be showing. Include all foil edges around roof. Use a small liner brush to do touch-ups. (I used a 5/0 liner.) Lightly flood with water if needed to assist in the feathering of the touch-up paint.
(118) Use a #1 soft round to apply very light streaks of light yellow-gold rust colored soft pastels to roof and smoke jack casting. Note: I recommend not to use weathering powders for this step. Soft pastel powders are much more forgiving and you will have more control of the coloring with soft pastels than with weathering powders.

Wood Foundation
Materials:
A) 8x8 stripwood x1
b) Dark brown stain

(119) Grain 8x8 and stain with dark brown stain.
(120) Cut 8x8 pieces to fit structure base/footprint.
(121) Grain (twist in circular motion with a file card) all ends of foundation pieces.
(122) Stain all cut ends with dark brown stain.
(123) Attach to structure.

Porch
Materials:
A) 6x6 stripwood x1
b) Leftover pieces from siding

(124) Grain and stain 6x6 with dark brown wash.
(125) Cut 6x6 into pieces need for frame.
(126) Color cut ends with dark brown wash.
(127) Glue frame together.
(128) Use leftover wood scraps from siding process to create decking.
(129) Cut porch decking to size and attach to porch frame. Make sure to keep one long edge of porch deck flush with frame. This edge will be attached to front wall.
(130) Add score lines to decking with #11 X-acto blade, straight pin or scriber.
(131) Place porch deck down on paper towel. Flood decking from backside with Silverwood.
(132) Brush top - Roll Silverwood stain onto decking board edges.
(133) Attach porch to structure front wall.

BUILD SUMMARY
A)Huge Success with technique to color walls. The process is very quick and simple. The technique produces a multitude of color hues on clapboard siding. If this structure had been made of sheet stock clapboard siding, I could have colored the walls in less time than needed to cut the walls from the sheet stock.

I do need to warn however, that this wall coloring technique, as described, will only work on wood clapboard siding. The technique takes advantage of the clapboard edges during the coloring process.

With some small modifications to the technique, I believe that the coloring technique can be applied to standard siding and even to styrene structures.
-- For standard board siding, one may need to use the fine tips of the markers and quick short strokes on the individual boards.
-- For styrene, one will probably need to paint a light yellow hue undercoat prior to using the markers to color. A very light touch during the application of the dirt will be required to make sure not to lift the paint from the styrene and styrene edges. A dusting of Rottenwood, may in fact, be a better choice than use of the finely sifted dirt.

b) The use of Laser-Cut windows continues to improve the look of the windows over the use of traditional window castings. (Now what to do with the all of the window castings I have acquired over the years?) Coloring of the laser-cut casting appears to be easier and more controllable with the color hues than with traditional castings.

C) The smoke jack casting shape was not available for use to totally follow the plans used. The SS Ltd. casting was substituted.

D) A plaster foundation was carved and glued together for this structure. There was a mishap during the carving of the final corner after the corner seams had been patched. This resulted in the entire plaster foundation falling apart.
LESSON LEARNED: I need to make sure to wait for the POP to fully dry from patching the corner seams prior to trying to carve in the corner stones.
-- I did determine that I WAS able to add more texture to the stone face of the casting by pouring the POP over a sponge foam placed inside the foundation form.

E) A wood foundation was substituted for the stone foundation due to time constraints. I could have painted the wood foundation 8x8's with a concrete paint as directed in the plans but selected a wood foundation to add variety to the cabins being constructed.

F) Corrugated metal roofing with two different stages of weathering/coloring on opposite sides of the metal sheet goal was not attempted.

--Items to consider for future builds--
a) Need to determine an easy way to color the foil roof edges on the roof underside.
b) Need to allow additional roof covering overhangs to allow for the addition of a 'shingle starter strip' along the top edge of the fascia boards.
c) Allow patched POP to fully dry prior to carving. This, for me, is different than when using hydrocal.

As always, comments on the good, bad and ugly are always welcome.


 

Where'd you get the tin?

Source of these structure plans

 You can find the source of these structure plans in this book shown here.

This book has 44 plans in all. These plans are drawn by Architect and model railroader Pat Harriman, MMR. Pat designed these structures deliberately to fit the space constraints of a model railroad, but they're also designed to be architecturally correct as if they were real prototypes.

Available from the MRH Store for $9.99. You can get the hardcopy version (printed on demand by Lulu) for $25.49. The hardcopy version is high-quality spiral-bound so the plans lay open flat.

There's a volume 2 releasing next week, so watch for it!

Very nice work!  I'd be leery

Very nice work! 

I'd be leery of using markers, though. In my experience even the "permanent" markers are not light-fast, and will fade. Have you had any trouble with fading on your models?

Thanks Guys for the Feedback

Joe, I noted under the "Sub Roof and Prime Roofing Material" section that the "tin" stock is Campbell, product #804, and that I cut the sections to 3 foot lengths.   This is where I primed the metal roofing and colored the cardstock sub-roof.  In the "Roof" section the primed metal roofing was attached to the cardstock using 3-M double sided transfer tape.

I will say that I'm pleased that you are taking the time to read this construction series so carefully and that you are following along at such a detailed level.  That's great to see and thank you.

Ray, Thanks for the feedback.  You are correct in that markers are not totally lightfast.  I believe that the higher quality markers have  better lightfast characteristics than the cheaper brands and that the solvent based markers may outlast the water based products, but I don't know this for a fact.  All I can say is that I'm unaware of any brand of markers which are 'colorfast'.

I've only had the models for a couple of years, and have not noticed any fading. I have  taken the models to many railroad shows and clinics where they are handled by the public a lot, and again, I'm unable to detect any loss of coloring due to the handling.  I know that a fellow modeler has not had any issues with fading colors in his models which are much older.  But, his models are not in any sunlight.  I believe that most folks will not experience any significant fading if the model(s) are on a layout and the model is kept out of direct sunlight. 
 

Thanks, KP