February 2010 Car Shop Report

Between dodging snowflakes, shoveling snow, and other snow-related issues, I've been progressing on several model projects. These three are the first out the door and now ready for service. Each one was upgraded in different ways and all are HO scale models.

Before getting underway it is important to understand a point or two. How a freight car is weathered can be dependent upon the era modeled. My focus on two of these projects is geared toward the late 1940s when steam locomotives were used. Freight cars used later in the 1960s and 1970s would exhibit different weathering characteristics, even down to the color on the wheels. Carefully review images of freight cars representative of your intended modeling era to determine your processes.

Atlas 1932 ARA Erie Box Car

No additional details were added to this car. Only a coupler change to Kadee #58 semi-scale versions was done. A few layers of weathering have been applied. Here's the car fresh from the packaging and after a change in couplers. The Atlas model does a good job in capturing unique hardware on these Erie freight cars. The roof represents a Viking radial arched roof and the car ends represent a Buckeye corrugated end. Neither of these components were widely used so one of these Erie cars adds flavor to a freight car fleet. Additionally, the factory paint and lettering represents the as-built appearance from the late 1930s and early 1940s.

I first apply a general wash using burnt umber oil paint thinned using mineral spirits. A small dab of paint on the brush then a soaking of thinner goes a long way. Even a small amount of paint with a liberal application of thinner will cut the new look sheen on a model. The pigment will highlight seams, joints and crevices. The brownish color creates a mottled appearance on the roof, representative of steam locomotive soot and cinder deposits. Oil paint do take some time to dry. I leave a project sit for a day or two before applying another weathering layer. If you are like many model railroaders, there are plenty more projects to work upon while this dries.

The wheels can be painted during this waiting period. Rail brown, railroad tie brown, or some sort of grimy color can be applied to the wheel face, axle and the backs of the wheels. I use a microbrush but many people airbrush the wheelsets. Be sure to wash the wheels in soapy water first to eliminate cutting oils from the manufacturing process. Do a bunch of these at the same time to make your efforts more efficient. If you get paint on the wheel tread, use a swab soaked with thinner to clean it off.

For the next weathering step, determine if more of the same wash is needed or if another shade should be applied. Sometimes I add a light wash of black, or I add more burnt umber. Use prototype images as inspiration. If the car looks good at this point, then I move to a drybrushing step. Using white acrylic paint, touch the end of a stiff bristled brush to the paint then whisk the brush on scrap cardboard to remove most of the paint. Quickly brush the car edges and small details to add a hint of the white as a highlight. This is easy to overdo, so try it out on a test freight car or other model. You don't want to add a layer of paint, just a hint of paint to highlight the details. Often the sill steps, grabs and even the running board can be lost in the surrounding color of the model. Drybrushing on a white or lighter highlight can bring definition to these details and make them stand out a little.

Once the model is complete, set it aside for a day to allow the drybrushing to set up. Coming back later with a fresh set of eyes will allow you to determine if more drybrushing is needed, if another step is needed, or if the model is done. I have been adding a step using fine powder to add a little texture. I use a product called Rottenstone that I picked up years ago after reading about it in the Narrow Gauge & Short Line Gazette. It is similar to a furniture finishing abrasive. I also use very fine dirt as it offers a slightly different shade. Not much is needed in this step. I use a soft wide brush and barely touch the material to load it onto the brush. I tap the brush onto the model to drop material into place then gently whisk the brush to spread it out. I tend to hit the lower part of a freight car where dust would collect. I also use a micro brush to add vertical stripes of this material to the ends. Box car ends often exhibit wheel spray stripes from the bottom of the end to a point near the base of the tackboard or brake platform. I use a microbrush dipped into the Rottenstone or dirt then brushed onto the car end. These stripes are more visible at the bottom and fade out towards the mid-point of the car end. I do not apply Dullcoat to seal the work. With careful handling the fine material stays in place.

Proto2000 Lehigh Valley Automobile Box Car

This kit was built years ago and suffered damage over the years. Some sill steps were broken, bracket grabs missing, and the hand brake wheel disappeared. The sill steps were replaced with A-Line wire versions. Bracket grabs and the hand brake wheel came from the spare parts box. Cut levers were also added. These parts were touched up using Delta Ceramcoat paints. Weathering was done similar to the previous project but the wash was lighter and fine dirt was used for the dusty effect.

Tichy Pennsylvania Railroad F41 GSC Flat Car

I bought a couple of these kits years ago and never finished them. The prototypes came into use in the late 1950s so these are beyond my period of modeling. I thought I'd do a few things to spruce these up. A-Line sill steps, wire grabs, cut levers, and air hoses were added to the models. The metal parts of the deck were masked with Scotch tape then the deck was brush painted with a Accuflex Erie Lackawanna Gray which was on hand. The other car was painted with Polly S Depot Buff. Once the paint was dry the masking was pulled. I let the cars sit for a week before starting the weathering steps.

Flat car decks were generally abused and rarely painted. As the Tichy model deck is one piece, the weathering is an important characteristic. A light wash of burnt umber was applied stroking the brush across the car with the direction of the deck boards. Once dry, a light wash of black was applied, followed by the drybrushing step. Lastly, I sprinkled some fine dirt onto the deck then rubbed this with my finger. Don't try for an overall application. Keep the material towards the car centerline and apply in a couple large spots. I worked towards an uneven coloration and texture for the deck. Brush off any excess back into a container so it can be used again.

For each of these models, the trucks and couplers were also weathered. Paint overspray on the prototype adds some color to these items. When details are being touched up, lightly apply some color to these parts. They don't need to be coated. When this is dry, dust a bit of the powder material onto the truck sideframe. As a final touch, use an orange colored pencil to give a hint of color to the springs.

There have been many different weathering techniques published over the decades and it is easy to be overwhelmed with the information. The best thing to do is find a cheap model to experiment with and get your hands dirty. You will quickly find what materials you enjoy working with most and how they work best on your test model. Nature does not weather all at once but in many applications over time. Work in steps and allow enough drying time between steps. Not all weathering is the same either, but you start noticing that once you have done several cars. Good luck on your next project.