I have limited experience with the Cricut Explore

You use a USB cable or a Bluetooth USB adaptor with the "standard Explore. The "new" Explore Air has the Bluetooth built in. (and you pay extra for it)

I use CADRail 10 to make dwg files which can be loaded to the Circut Design Space (web site). If you use dwg files you will have to scale the drawing as Miles did in the video. I printed mine on my Epson printer so I knew what it should be. You do need to "attach" the drawing pieces make the cuts the way you want. It would be more direct to use software that will output a svg file. I already had the CADRail.

I am using a Windows 7 laptop and a USB cable with the Explore. 

Miles could answer

But he's away in Australia attending a narrow-gauge meet there.  I would assume that because the image is delivered to the machine via the web browser that it does not matter if it is Mac or PC.  The file format is more important.  But I'm sure you'll have an answer here within a few hours.

There are so many ways to use this machine, and everyone's situation is different, so it was difficult to decide what to put in a 19-minute segment.

Operation unplugged

  I have not found a way to have the unit do anything while disconnected from the internet.  If that is a requirement, look at one of the other machines (Silhouette or Zing).  All your designs reside on the 'cloud' and at this time there appears to be no way to share your designs, either via Design Space or via file exchange directly with other modelers.  I have put these comments in every questionnaire I have filled out.  We'll see if they take the suggestion.

Miles H does "CriCut" at Aust NG Convention?

Dear Barry, MRHers,

Yes, we have a "Modeller's Guide to ScanNCut" clinic scheduled for the Australian Narrow Gauge Convention 2015. Our local presenter has been playing with both " ScanNCut" and " Sillouette" units and has a number of interesting examples and tips/tricks to share. Miles is indeed registered to attend the Convention, and the "ScanNCut" clinic has actually been tweaked to ensure Miles' can attend and share his experiences too...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Because of the cloud....

and the need to be connected to the internet I chose the Silhouette Cameo which does not have that requirement.

Read more about model railroad use at  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79025-a-guide-to-using-the-silhouette-cameo-cutter/

Dave

Scan 'n' Cut

I am the local presenter, at the Australian Narrow Gauge Convention, referred to in Prof's comment.

For info Brother Scan 'n' Cut does not have to be connected to the internet and has its own built in software so does not need .dxf, svg etc files.

Just scan the drawing. Save to the machine. Push the cut button.

regards

John L

John L

Thanks for the info on Scan n Cut. Can you successfully cut styrene with it? If so, what thickness does it cut?

Thanks,

 Rick

SCAN'n' CUT

Rick,

re succesfully cutting styrene.

Regular blade extends approx 1mm (40 thou)

Easily cuts 20 thou styrene.

Snap out above this to 40 thou.

There is a heavy cut blade extends approx 2mm but it has not yet been tried.  

regards

John L

Size of cut question

Hi jrbernier,

I've been considering Cricut for building construction.

Are there any limits about how small a square you can cut?

I'm an N scaler and thinking windows and doors 3/16 x 1/4 and 3/16x3/4.

smallest cuts

Thanks for the info in this

Thanks for the info in this thread. 

I can't imagine buying a machine that must be connected to the net to work. What a poor idea. 

The Silhouette looks interesting, but now I need to study the Scan n cut. 

I want to use my paper model patterns as a basis for the cutting machine to work on. I still have not figured out if that is a possibility with any of the machines. 

Cutting N scale trusses

  I am kitbashing a Rix Multi Purpose building into a pole building type structure for my module.  This involved cutting large opening on each end to represent the prototype structure.   The inside of the walls in this kit have deep scribe lines that allow you to make it in various heights and configurations, but it also is meant to be built as a "closed" structure without the interior walls being visible.

  I began experimenting with cutting 110lb cardstock to create a "liner" for the interior to camouflage those hideous scribe lines.  Once I got the sizing correct for the end and side walls, I began to think about what I could do for the roof.  While this is N scale and *most* people will not get down and look that closely, I will have stuff going on inside the building.  The real-life structure is used for assembling panel track sections.

  While I could not get close enough to get a shot of the actual trusses, I have seen enough pole constructed buildings to have a good idea what it would look like, and really, what are the chances that anyone will see it?  So I designed up some trusses and cut them out on the Cricut.  They turned out very consistent and pretty clean for a heavier paper.

  I used ACC to stiffen the paper trusses - weighting them between two sheets of wax paper to keep them straight.  They did require a bit of additional cleanup after this, but they are much stronger and resistant to warping.  Now how to align, hold all these parts in position to attach them to the roof parts?!?  My fat fingers were certainly not up to the task ....

  BRAINSTORM!  How about using the Cricut to make a jig/fixture?  I remember in kindergarten the teacher had a plank type building system that we kids used to create a fort.  It consisted of boards with interlocking notches ( think: flat 'Lincoln Logs' - if anyone remembers those ... )  So I came up with these parts:

  Each of these would be laminated 3 sheets thick, for a total thickness of .030".  The trusses are .010" thick, so I cut the skinny notches at .015" wide - kind of what I thought the limit that the Cricut could cut in this material.  They turned out amazingly well!  You can see that there is a bit of tear-out in the narrow notches, but that is all on the scrap side of the cut.  Originally I had planned to put some alignment holes to help while laminating, but using the slits with an Exacto blade worked pretty good too.  Here is the jig laminated and assembled:

  ... and here it is loaded with the trusses.

 I still need to do final clean up on them, but I couldn't resist sharing something that I think many of you could use a cutter like this for.  So let's see YOUR projects!

Ahhh

Toni I like the way you think ! Thank you for the informative tutorial. I was considering a Cricut to get me by until I pull the trigger for a desktop laser, and you have pushed me further into doing just that !

Michael

Great Trusses!

Toni,

Fantastic! If you can make the 2nd Division meeting next Saturday please bring this model for show and tell.

Ross

Paper

Check your local print shop for high gloss business card stock, I think you could use this paper for even greater results. I shouldn't leave any fur and will have a nice smooth finish.

Logo on fascia

While I still struggle with the learning curve on CAD programs and conversion to Cricuts DS. I have tried to use it as intended and cut out some signs and lettering. Here is a new logo for my fascia. 

Thomas Gasior

Very Nice

I saw that our craft store was now stocking these and it is very tempting. I've been drawing in various versions of cad since the 80's (did I just say I am old?) but not familiar with illustrator programs. Thomas is clearly very creative and mastered that app so would it not also be suited for structures? I only see scaling as the issue but not too hard to overcome. 

Neil Erickson 

Scaling and software

If you can hand draw it you can make it, and scale it even easier!

I'm not familiar with Cricut's software (all of us use Silhouette machines) but most of the software has the ability to take a jpg or other graphic file and "autotracing" it so that it creates a cut file for the machine to use.  Have something that needs scaled?  Flip it into a graphics program, reduce or expand it by XX%, re-save and cut.

Examples:   https://goo.gl/photos/w57UXHbQeggcByhU9

These are cardstock buildings printed from PDF.  Same building, same PDF file but scaled for 30 mm, "N" and "Z" scale.  They were hand-cut as it was an experiment, but had I been doing more than just playing I wold have made a cut file for them.....

kevin

New cricut user question

I am a MRR and a new cricut user.  Is there any forum where I can post questions?  Cricut has shut down their forum.  For instance, when I import a .png file it is not coming in at the dimensions I set in the .png file.  Any idea what to do?

When you upload your image

When you upload your image into design space, the dimensions of the image are ignored. You have to set the size in design space. 

Have you tried

an SVG file? I don't remember having problems with re-sizing them. You do have to "attach" them in the design space or they are wack when you cut them.

Cutting styrene -- not successfuk

Experience cutting .030 styrene. I tried it with a deep cut blade and custom setting at max with 7 passes but still had to do a lot of work with hobby knife. Anyone else had different experience?

Article for the beginner on the Cricut Cutter with video

I just wrote an article in this issue of The O Scale Resource Magazine. Using the article along with a video for the beginner.
http://oscale.uberflip.com/i/944796-march-april-2018/48?m4=

Thanks Dan

That's the second article in that magazine that I have been pointed to. I think I better start reading it regularly.