Cutting guide

Windows and other small parts often need to be cut with a straight edge as a guide. I use a square when I can, but when I can't I find the usual steel rule difficult to use-- the ole fingers don't bend and grip as well as they used to. So, today I discovered a better straight edge in with my painting tools. The palette knife has an offset handle that provides a very comfortable and secure grip. These things (also called painting knives) come in all sizes. I may experiment with adding a non-slip backing to one.

pqe

edit: I put some gaffer's tape on the bottom of the knife, and it became nicely non-slip.

If you cut from the back they

If you cut from the back they will drop out a lot easier. Use a new blade and just need light presser then peal the backing off. Do not cut the window frame out yet, that way the backing on the outside of the frame can be used to help locate the glazing. Just remember to pain the frames first. Great idea to use the drop as a sanding pad. A friend uses them to make jigs .

rich

window glazing pssibilities

For windows in lets say a caboose,for I have yet to try this yet,but try, using a microscope actual glass square~1/2."

The small glass square holds the small specimen on the glass slide.This item can be usually found at science

surplus stores. Good luck .Regards, tr1

Microscope cover glass

That seems like a good idea- they even crack protypically, as I remember from my biology class. As a matter of fact, I found some very nice Grafix plastic at my local art store. It measures 0.003. Then after making such a fuss, I found a piece of the stuff in the kit, already lasered into individual windows. It was hidden in an envelope with other parts. I have no idea what they included the thick plastic for.

pqe

shaky hands

It seems like you've got it all covered but I can sympathize with you over shaky hands as mine are getting worse over time.

As a kit manufacturer I have my kit windows cut from the same material you show, I have learned to make the assembly easier for my customers by cutting out everything possible.  There is no reason to leave the inside portions of those windows.  The kit maker should have the laser cut out all of those openings, leaving just the muntins.  (and thanks for using the correct terminology-muntin)

I know, they'll say the windows might get damaged in shipping.  We'll, if you package the kit correctly, they'll be just fine and the customer will be happier.  I do it all the time.  And I know you have to deal with the problem you received but maybe a kit maker will read this and get the hint.

Yes, paint the windows before removing them from the carrier sheet.  I also install the glazing before cutting the sash free.  And then assemble the sash to the frame while the frame is still in the carrier.  Aligning the sash to the frame while still in the carrier is much easier than trying to freehand each little part separately.  Then cut the entire frame and sash assembly free from the carrier.

Dave Mason

On30IMA

Future Floor Wax

This may sound pretty extreme and I've only used it on plastic windows, commercial, my own castings, or 3D printed.  I've never tried it on laser cut windows and it may not work because they are made with porous material - paper or wood. I maneuver a drop of Future so as to form a film in the window opening.  Once it dries you have an acrylic film mounted in the center of the mullions, not behind them.  These films are incredibly delicate and break just like the prototype so you don't want to put them in an environment where they would be handled - like a modeling contest.  You can reinforce them with an application of a gloss clear coat or another application of Future, but that usually does not dry evenly and you loose the uniformity of the original film.  The best reinforcement is an application of epoxy resin, but applying it without breaking the original film can be a challenge.

An approach I'm currently experimenting with on some 3D printed windows is to use a thin layer of epoxy resin coated on a food wrap film.  This would work best on windows with a flat back.  Of course if the window has an adhesive backing, just stick them on the film.