JB WELD

JB Weld is a two part epoxy that take 24 hours to cure.  After that you can treat it as metal.  Any local hardware store should have it.

Vote 2 for JB Weld

Perfect for what you are trying to do

Vote 3 for JB Weld

I have seen JB Weld used to repair R/C model airplane gas engines.  It certainly can be drilled & tapped, sanded or filed down into whatever shape required.

JB Weld  contains teeny tiny bits of metal making it very strong once it is hardened.

G. T.

Vote #4

JB Weld.  Can't beat it!

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 Evergreen tube of the diameter that fits the coupler, the center only needs to be tapped so there's no drilling to be done. It's also self centering...

You may need a thin washer/plate to hold the coupler in place - an Athearn coupler plate might do.

Vote # 2 for styrene

I agree with Benny on using Evergreen tube.....I`ve done this many times for repairing coupler/truck bolsters on cars .

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I'd say the JB Weld would be good for securing the post once you have tapped it into the bolster, you could also tap in the post into the bolster, remove the backing plate/coupler, resecure the tube to the bolster with the screw from the opposite side [to hold it in place, square and true], wrap the coupler with thin shrink wrap [single layer, and then press it into the bolster.  Level the J.B Weld once done and you'll be able to remove and replace the coupler as needed, and when it's in place, it's in a form fitted impression on the bolster.

Thanks for all the quick suggestions...

I decided to just try a generic Bamboo skewer first since I have a number of them on hand.  A little CA and it seems to be pretty solid.  When I start on the rest of the Superliner Fleet, I'll give the Styrene tubing and JBWeld a go and see how they work...  I at least can now get a reliable couple up to the loco...

I'll also want to use the shorter Kadee couplers on the next attempt as the standard are too long...  Haven't painted it yet, so you can still see the sanding marks...

My Thoughts

Unless you have very sharp curves I would suggest getting rid of the swinging couplers and body mount the kadees. I have used the very long KD (can't remember the number mounted further back on the floor of the coach to get a bit more swing then with the shorter versions.

Just my 2 cents worth as I had a lot of trouble with these swing type couplers stickin in place.

Unfortunately we DO have

Unfortunately we DO have tight curves, and the swinging couplers have worked well so far...  I hated the standard Kato couplers, so I now have Kadee's on the Loco and the front of the MHC.

I contacted Kadee directly and they said they didn't have anything that was long enough for the superliners standard coupler box.  I thought about putting on a Kadee coupler box, but decided I'd try something else before  going down that road..

-Stephen

Oh well...

Sorry for the tight curves....Good luck

Thanks...

This "layout" and the tight curves are temporary, so once we have something semi-permanent with proper curves, I'll revisit the couplers...  Luckily we haven't had any issue with the swinging couplers and they do allow the superliners to navigate 18" and 15" curves without uncoupling themselves every 5 minutes like the original Kato couplers...  Yeah, the overhang looks horrible, but it gets us by for now...

-Stephen