Nice diagram, Art.

I have found that using the Fast Tracks point filing jigs makes this job into something really simple and fast. You don't need the reinforcing brass strip at all - the point filing jig supports the point and makes holding it for filing into a piece of cake.

I just chuck the rail into the point filing jig - make several swipes with a 10 inch mill file until the rail is flush with the face of the filing tool - remove the point and touch up slightly with a needle file - done! Takes 2-3 minutes at most per point.

Hi Joe -

I agree the brass strip is not needed but how do you avoid filing away the web?  If your rail point is on the outside edge of the railhead the end won't be sharp enough and if it is on the inside edge of the railhead then the web will be gone and the end will be unstable.

I agree that thousands of points have been filed without this problem but it hit me on the first two turnouts in n scale and several times on larger gauge turnouts and has been a topic on the Fast-tracks n-forum as well. 

The suggested cure on the Fasttracks forum was to cut off the unusable end and then file the inside edge of the railhead.  This probably does the job but it seems to be brute-force rather than clean fabrication.

Art

Art:

Once you pull the rail out of the jig, you push on the end of the new point to get to the part of the point with good web support. Then I just nip off the flimsy rail section and touch up the end of the point on with a needle file, and then file down the inside railhead with a few passes of the file.

Pretty easy, and you get a solid, dependable point that comes to a nice sharp "point".

With a bit more practice, you can learn to insert the rail just the right amount to not get the flimsy excess. Once you learn that trick, then a couple of quick passes on the inside railhead with a needle file and you're done!

But even if you do overshoot, it's not THAT much harder to just push on the end of the point with your fingernail until you get to rail with good web support. A quick snip with the flush cutters and then a bit more dressing with the file and you're in business.

Art

I'm useing the point form tool from Fast Tracks for code 70 & 55 rail and the points are so clean and sharp you could sew silk without tearing threads. Just follow the How to Videos on the Fast Tracks site and you can't do it wrong.

From the very first time I tried to make a set of points they have come out perfect every time.

They also make a point soldering tool that helps you to align the points perfect if you don't use their Switch building Jigs which simplifies making Crossings they don't make in Duel Gauge and for custom or hand laid without their Jigs. You can whip out a dozen Points in 30 min and everyone is exactally what you want.

Dan

I spent quite a lot of time filing the points in N scale with code 55 rail to get it "just right."  Joe describes it well, but as he also says, it doesn't take much to touch it up anyway.  However, a good quality file makes the job much easier, but I'm sure you have one. 

Thanks for the comments.  Hands-on experience carries the day every time.  I see now that, although my geometry was correct, the slight over-hang is insignificant and is easily fixed.   Onward to N scale and Fast-tracks.

Art

Hi Art,

The diagram you posted is from an article writen for the P87SIG.  The discription of how to make points using this method is almost exactly what real railroads do to make real switch points! THe other thing is that making switch points using this method negates the need to file the base off of the stock rails. That being said, I have used the point form tool from Fastracks and it does work as described, however, don't let that deter you from trying the method you posted. I have done it and it works just as well!

Donnell

The diagram you posted is from an article writen for the P87SIG. 

Hi Donnell - Thanks for the identification.

Full credit should be given to Andy Reichert for his pioneering effort in Proto 87 and other fine-scale innovations.  The Proto87 movement combined with Fast-tracks has already brought great changes in track modeling and construction.

Do we have a Model Railroad Hall of Fame?  With our historic innovators we should add Andy Reichert, Tim Warris, and Joe Fugate for advancing the hobby.

Artarms

Having spent the majority of my working life in the engineering industry, my files were my main tools of trade.

I had files that I would use on specific metals such as brass, copper, steel etc.

I also use Fast Tracks jigs and have nothing but praise for this system and only wish that it was around in the years that I was constructing code 55 turnouts with nothing more that a few home made rail gauges.

The one thing that Fast Tracks say at the begining is that you should buy a new 10" mill file and use it exclusively with the filing jig.

The one thing that I don't think they tell you is that it is imperative that the file teeth be kept clear of any filings. It is a simple task to do but make sure that you use the correct tool and this is called a file card.

This is a small wooden spoon shaped item that is similar to a wire brush but the wire is very short.  It should be used by simply brushing across the file slowly to clean out the teeth.

A word of warning.  To prolong the life of the file, make sure that you brush towards the front of the file because if you brush the way that the file moves to cut the metal you will maybe break the top off the teeth.  Remember that wire brushes are made from spring wire and this is very hard material.

The easiest way of stopping this clogging of the teeth is to get a piece of chalk and give the file a single pass over it to fill the teeth of the file.  This then has the affect of allowing the brass filings to drop out with the vibrations which are formed when filing.

Clean the chalk out at the end of the building session though because chalk is excellent at absorbing the moisture from the atmosphere and will soon start rust forming.

I have built several turnouts in several scales but am not really proficient. One of my major problems is maintaining track gauge at the end of the points. I located a picture in Andy Reichert's P87 site http://www.proto87.com/old-style-turnouts.html that has helped me with this problem and It thought might be useful for others who are strugggling as I am.

This turnout is an old prototype - they may be different now. The rail does not curve continuously from the point end but has a sharp bend and a length of straight rail to allow the tapered point to fit smoothly against the stock rail. I remember hearing about a jog in the rail - even mentioned on one of FastTracks videos - but I have not seen it illustrated as clearly as this. This is something I have not been doing but will experiment with tomorrow. It looks like a simple way to take care of the gauge change.

added 1/30/10  Now that I am paying more attention - I notice on the Fast Tracks printed template for a #7 in N scale that they show the straight section with a jog in the rail - just like the prototype.  I should have known they would have this - it's just too small for me to see without a special focus.

Art