First thoughts

Steve,

The first thing that comes to mind is that I've rarely (read - almost never) seen a folding table which didn't eventually sag, warp, or otherwise become unsuitable as a layout surface.  With that in mind, I strongly suggest building your modules in such a way that they are self-supporting, and then use the tables only as a platform on which to arrange your rigid modules.  I might even go as far as adding some extra bracing to the tables, depending on their construction.  Aluminum angles are inexpensive, light, and strong, and will go a long way toward keeping the tables straight in the long run.

The next thing that comes to mind is that you're going to have issues with the module joints.  I am assuming HO or On30 scale.  In that case, you're not going to be able to keep the module joints under straight track - they'll have to fall under curves, unless you put a short straight section at each joint.  You may be limited in the track plans you can use, although it may not be an issue for your purposes.  If you're using some form of sectional track, you could leave a section out over the module joints.  I would not suggest bringing rails right up to the module joint unless you're SUPREMELY confident in your ability to make an absolutely perfect connection.  It can be done, but there are no shortcuts.

I have done a few temporary holiday displays, and I learned a lot.  Reliability is paramount - everything else is secondary.  The trains are likely to run unattended for long periods, and need to keep running for months.  Every module joint is a potential source of problems, so take that into account as you plan your new layout.

Ken - thanks so much for the

Ken - thanks so much for the thoughful and quick reply.  Now that I'm on the computer I can add a couple more details.  I should have said, I'm running O Gauge trains - pretty big for a small display, I know, but what I grew up with

The folding tables that I intend on using, aren't really folding.  No seam down the middle, just the legs.  Here's what I found:

So, as you said, the table would just be a base for the rigid modules.  2" Foam board on 1/2" plywood:

Then some sort of small maybe 2"x2" framework under each square to allow for wiring under.

 I'm using Lionel Fastrac for now, maybe down the road, embed the track, but one step at a time.

When you say, trouble with module joints, what exactly do you mean?  I'm not totally sure how I would get the 6 modules to stay together on top of a flat table, maybe some sort of kitchen cabinet hook or even magnet.

Thanks again!

The trouble with modules..

If you attach the track to the structure of the module, then it becomes critical that the modules are assembled and aligned perfectly, or you have to have some way of dealing with a little misalignment.  I have seen a variety of methods:

• Leave room for a short piece of track to be inserted between the ends (stop the track short of the edge)
• Same as above, but take the ties and ballast all the way to the edge, and just insert loose rails.
• Use PC ties across the joint (so that rails are soldered rigidly on either side of the joint), lay track across the joint, and then cut it in half afterward.

All of the methods have been shown to work reliably, when implemented properly and when reasonable care has been taken to align the modules during assembly.

In your case, since you're not attaching the track to the modules, you have a little more flexibility.  To connect them, you might consider putting holes through the vertical 1x3 (or 1x2, which would probably be sufficient) about 1-2" in from the outside edges, then bolt them together.  For a layout which will not be moved once it's assembled, and for which the tables underneath will provide support, all you need is to keep the modules from sliding around relative to each other.

Another idea you might want to consider, depending on your plans.  I have seen some very nice holiday displays where the "layout" was just whatever flat surface was convenient, with a white sheet or blanket (to represent snow, of course) laid over that.  If various elevations are wanted, use 2" foam stacked up beneath the sheet.  While you can't get into as much detail, the layout is a lot cheaper and easier to modify, and honestly most people will be just as impressed as if you were a master model railroader.

@ Ken

Do you think Steve could do this on hollow core doors?  I would be a lot lighter than what he has been using.  Then all he needs is a way to connect the doors together?

Den

Using Fastrak in O...

Using Fastrac in O scale is basically re-inventing N scale T-Trak (we use Kato UniTrack) . You certainly don't need 2x2 bracing under it, 1x2 would be more than sufficient and half the weight. You might want to take a look at some of the T-Trak web sites and get some ideas from them. An O scale train won't even notice track misalignments that would scatter an N scale train all over the table.