Ken Glover kfglover

I have a Athearn Genesis GP15-1 (DCC with sound) that sounds like it  has something rattling around in the speaker. The bad sound is still there if I have the speaker out of the loco. I have used 3 different speakers and get the same scratchy sound. I am beginning to think it is in the sound files. 

Anybody else have this problem? And, of course, any solutions?

I have another Genesis GP15-1 that was a non-sound, DC version. I installed a Tsunami GN1000 decoder, the install was easy and the sound is good.

Prof_Klyzir? Have any suggestions?

Ken Glover,

HO, Digitrax, Soundtraxx PTB-100, JMRI (LocoBuffer-USB), ProtoThrottle (WiThrottle server)

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pschmidt700

Don't mean to usurp the good

Don't mean to usurp the good Professor. Wonder if it could be driver on the decoder? Sounds to me as if the output is "clipping," i.e., overdriving the speaker. Putting the decoder's speaker outputs on an oscilloscope or Picoscope would probably reveal that's the case. Having offered this, I defer to the Professor. ...
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Ken Glover kfglover

@ Paul

I don't have access to ether an oscilloscope or Picoscope. In fact, I dont know what a Picoscope is. The decoder in the problem loco is an OEM. I have assumed it was a Tsunami.

I am considering resetting the decoder to defaults to see if I confused it somehow. I do use JMRI DecoderPro 3 to setup my decoders so I have the current settings saved.

Ken Glover,

HO, Digitrax, Soundtraxx PTB-100, JMRI (LocoBuffer-USB), ProtoThrottle (WiThrottle server)

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pschmidt700

Ken, you wouldn't be the

Ken, you wouldn't be the first guy to confuse a decoder! But yeah, when all else fails, hit reset. A Picoscope is a digital o'scope that interfaces with a laptop. The model I have is about the size of a small hardback book and weighs about 12 ounces. I use it out in the field and in my shop at work. It's actually easier to read than traditional o'scope.
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Ken Glover kfglover

No other thoughts or experience?

Really guys, nobody but Paul even has a wiseass comment? Surely this isn't a unique occurance.

Ken Glover,

HO, Digitrax, Soundtraxx PTB-100, JMRI (LocoBuffer-USB), ProtoThrottle (WiThrottle server)

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Reply 0
Joe Brugger

My guess

I'm pig-ignorant about electronics and sound, but the issue you describe could be an intermittent ground. Have you opened up the engine to look at the physical connections? Would not be the first time a factory-fresh model had a bad solder joint.

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ctxmf74

"Ken, you wouldn't be the

"Ken, you wouldn't be the first guy to confuse a decoder!"

  or the first guy to be confused by a decoder. 

I've had stereos sound like that from bad pots( remember them?)  for a DCC loco I'd probably pull it out and check the connections? .......DaveB

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Ken Glover kfglover

Up to this point...

... I have soldered the speaker connections to the decoder. I may have to go back and solder the track power to the decoder. This board has the plastic slip over connections which seem to work well most of the time.

I began by thinking something was touching the speaker cone. so I opened things up and discovered the power pickup wiring runs through the speaker enclosure. I thought that was asking for trouble. So I tried using Goo to hold the wires away from the speaker. Didn't help. Wired in a different speaker using different enclosure. Didn't help. Put yet another speaker on the wires I had soldered in. Didn't help. I no longer think it has anything to do with the speaker. 

Just before I started typing this reply, I was about to try putting the loco on the programming track and reset the decoder. I will solder the track power to the decoder before I do that. 

Ken Glover,

HO, Digitrax, Soundtraxx PTB-100, JMRI (LocoBuffer-USB), ProtoThrottle (WiThrottle server)

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Reply 0
pschmidt700

@Ken, well, you've cut the

@Ken, well, you've cut the problem in half, in terms of troubleshooting. Hope the reset works. I'm sticking to my suspicion of the decoder overdriving the speaker. @Dave: Bad pots are legal now in Washington State!
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Ken Glover kfglover

Pots also legal in Colorado!

The reset made the crazy sound disappear. That being the case I reloaded the settings from DecoderPro3. Sounded bad again. I went into the sound settings and turned off the reverb and set the equalizer for the correct size speaker. Good sound once again. I am going to tweek the sound to try and match my other GP15-1. Then I get to try and speed match them for consisting. More fun ahead

Ken Glover,

HO, Digitrax, Soundtraxx PTB-100, JMRI (LocoBuffer-USB), ProtoThrottle (WiThrottle server)

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Reply 0
Prof_Klyzlr

Reverb + EQ + raw "Direct" dry signal = overload/distortion

Dear Ken,

Sorry for the lag, work's been crazy...

Quote:

The reset made the crazy sound disappear.

Which tells us a few things:
- soldering the pickup wires etc helps from a reliability standpoint, but is not directly related to this issue.
(If the decoder was not showing any other symtoms of bad pickup,
such as flickering lights or stuttering motion, I would tend to focus on the decoder settings for expediency)
- virtually confirms a decoder setting issue as the culprint

​It also points to a question that needed to be asked very early on,
"...has the unit always sounded bad from Day 1 out-of-box, or did it go bad at a given point-in-time?..."

Quote:

That being the case I reloaded the settings from DecoderPro3. Sounded bad again.

Great, "bad settings" captured live in time and space. If you can get at the Decoder Definition (Roster?) file for the loco-in-question, anyone with a compatible version of JMRI should be able to open it, and inspect the questionable values.

Quote:

I went into the sound settings and turned off the reverb and set the equalizer for the correct size speaker. 

Did you turn off Reverb,

Retest

then reset the EQ

and Retest again?

IE did you seperate out these 2 settings to isolate if either one was "more involved" than the other?

From an Audio P.O.V.
(Skip if not deeply interested... )

- you start with an audio signal
- that audio signal is at a given digital/electrical/physical dB level
- Summing 2 or more signals together gives a cumulative dB output level higher than a single signal on it's own (logical)
- the resulting "sum of the signals" has to pass thru a D/A stage, a power amp, and to the speaker,
where each of those elements in the signal path have a limited (max) dB signal they can pass cleanly
(IE without audible distortion).

If we add excessive "Reverb" to the source signal (raw prime mover + horn + whatever else),
it is entirely possible that
- we can overload the Input to the Reverb process, creating "distorted Reverb"
- we may be feeding clean signal to the Input of the Reverb process,
and may even be getting a clean Reverb signal Out,
but the SUM of the Reverb effect PLUS the non-effected "Direct Sound" could create a Cumulative distorted result.

EQ is a powerful audio processing tool, and if you turn any significant number of the frequency band settings (CV 153-160) UP to their maximum (255), you are actually adding a significant ammount of dB boost to the overall signal.

Some numbers (I don't expect anyone to remember them) to give context:

- 0dB is considered "Unity" (what comes in, goes out again exactly the same)
- a dB value with a - in front is a lowering or "cutting" of the level
- understandably, a dB value with a + in front is a raising or "boosting" of the level
- +/- 3dB is considered the minimum change of level that the average human ear can reliably detect
- +6dB is a doubling of percieved volume (literally "twice as much signal" or aurally "twice as loud")

Now that we know what the correct terms are, you'll appreciate that each EQ CV in a TSU has
- CV value 128 = 0dB in audio processing terms
- CV Value 0 = -12dB (a Drop in audio level, resulting in 25% of "normal")
- CV Value 255 = +12dB (a Raising of the level, equivalent to 4x the "normal" signal level/volume)

Given that the Master Volume of a TSU is factory default set at "near maximum" (CV128 = 250 IIRC), 
and just has enough enough "headroom" (spare signal range) to cleanly pass the Prime mover and horn without overloading (IE audibly distorting thru the D/A and power-amp stages),

adding the extra Reverb signal

OR

boosting a few EQ bands

is certainly enough to create a cumulative signal larger/louder than the restricted range of the D/A converter and Power amp can handle...
(NB that AFAIK, NO DCC Decoder Manufacturer has Ever Publicly Released the Real Audio Specs of their signal paths/circuitry. As such, we have No Idea what the actual Dynamic Range or Signal/Noise specs of the digital mixer, DSP, D/A, and power amp stages are).

I'm glad you got it sorted in "brute force" mode,
but I think that some consequent playing and "interaction observation" of:
- the Master Volume CV 128
- the EQ settings
- The Reverb Setting
- and possibly the discrete sound volume settings

would pay off in nailing down exactly what was happening...

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

PS Hopefully the astute and observant will have also deduced that by cutting the EQ bands in the mid frequencies, you get the aural equivalent of turning up the Bass and Treble bands,
(the "graphic EQ" shape still looks like a smile),

but with the benefit of actually increasing the available total headroom.
(Instead of boosting the frequencies you do want,
and threatening to punch into Overload/distortion territory,

you're cutting the frequencies you do not want,
freeing up headroom to reproduce the remaining wanted sounds).

This was discussed in DuckDogger's "SD40 sound" thread from a month or so ago...
(search "scoop the mids").

Reply 0
pschmidt700

Wow!

This is great. I learned so much in just the first read, Prof. Thanks! Wonder if Joe might consider thus as the peg for an MRH story. ...
Reply 0
pschmidt700

Ken

Glad to hear all is better. Makes me want to get JMRI for my British layout, ESU decoders, and just play around with all the settings and configs the Prof touched on.
Reply 0
stevelton

@ the Prof.

It's amazing the similarities between audio frequency and radio frequency (my other hobby), as far as gain and loss go. 

Im no audio specialist, but I have Athearn Genesis locos also with factory Tsunami sound, and I usually turn the master volume down right from the get-go, but manage to still always get a "crackle" from the stock speaker after a length of time. I just wonder if I have a similar issue, and will tweek some settings after reading here.

 

Steven

(Male Voice) UP Detector, Mile Post 2 8 0, No defects, axle count 2 0, train speed 3 5 m p h,  temperature 73 degrees, detector out.

Reply 0
Prof_Klyzlr

What is a dB?

Dear Steven,

That's no surprise, both disciplines rely on basic physics.
+6dB is a doubling of whatever it is we are measuring...  

...Although, without stating from the outset that we are talking dB SPL, dBu, dBFS, dB LKFS, dBv, dBV, dBm, etc etc,

you could well be talking the power of a radio transmitter (dBm),
and I think you are talking about aural sound pressure of a noise in air (dB SPL)...

(we'd both be talking "dB", but would not be talking about the same "dB"s.... :-( ).

NB that deciBel (without context letters after the "dB"), is simply/only a mathematical scale,
not an actual physical measurement like Miles or Kilometres are.
(Make note of this next time "quiet roadbed", "setting volume levels for home or club use",
or "onboard DCC speaker performance" comes up onlist... ).

That you've heard "speaker cracking" could be a number of things.
Ken was right to immediately/instinctively suspect something loose in the shell rubbing/bumping up against the speaker cone, (Willy Occum was onto something),

but if you've eliminated that as a possibility, the next-most-possible reasons are likely:
- Cone flexing/"popping" of Mylar speaker cones
- Literal cracking (visible stress lines or actual tearing) of the cone, particularly around the frame
- Coil/cone interference (damaged driver, can be felt as "grinding" if you manually move the cone)
- Excessive cone movement/maximum-excursion limit
(the speaker driver is not being damped enough, or is just simply being driven too hard.
Do this for too long and literal Cracking due to repeated-flexing fatigue will likely result).

That you've identified that this occured "over time" and "it wasn't like that originally" suggests to me a fatigue-related issue.

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Reply 0
pschmidt700

dB calculator

I keep this handy on my work laptop: http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Decibels-Calculator.phtml It helps me when I need to convert dBm values into watts for voltage standing wave ratios. Play around with the dB and dBm calculators.
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Ken Glover kfglover

Some observations

@ Paul - Thanks for sticking with me here! I really appreciate it.

@ Steve - I too have made my first adjustment on a sound decoder turning down the master volume. Way too loud as far as I am concerned. The GP15-1 I In which I put the TSU GN1000 has it's master volume set at 30 in DecoderPro 3. I'd like to know what you find by tweeking the settings in your Genesis locos.

@ Prof - Thank you for the detailed explanation. I always learn something from your posts. I had thought I would try "scooping" the EQ settings when I got back to working with the sound in this loco. 

As I noted above, the master volume in the TSU GN1000 is set at 30. To get close to that level the Genesis is set at 60. Why such a difference when they are both (I think) Tsunamis? At this point both locos have the identical speakers in similar enclosures. It would seem most of the difference must be in the decoders. That really doesn't make sense to me. Would SoundTraxx go to the trouble to make them different in that way?

Work on this loco will continue now that I have handle on what I need to do.

 

Ken Glover,

HO, Digitrax, Soundtraxx PTB-100, JMRI (LocoBuffer-USB), ProtoThrottle (WiThrottle server)

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Reply 0
pschmidt700

You're welcome, Ken

I learned some things via your tribulations.
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