differences...

As I start working, I'm realizing a major difference from my previous scratch builds:  Previous ones were using an existing frame--in once case, the chassis of an n-scale caboose to provide the base for a dummy 2 foot Climax, the other using a KATO mechanism to but a small 2 foot diesel critter on.  This one is all wood; I'll have to be sure that it's strong enough to withstand the pressures of pulling and pushing like the prototype.

Unlike in the article, which suggests using a variety of widths of boards, I'll be using all 2 x 12's, since that's what I have on hand.

...

You'll be better off ordering the right sizes of wood.  The variety of board widths corresponds directly to each board size using in a car's construction.  Beams are not the same size or width as deck boards.

They only run about $2.00 a pack or so, another week and you'll have all you need [Northeastern Scale Lumber is one good company]

Wood...

I have the right size wood for the frame and stringers; I'm just using all the same width boards for the deck, on contrast to the article--some flat cars have uniform deck board width, others don't.

First steps...

Flat Car Build…Truss rod flatcar 1

Color:  Frame:  Floquil CNW green over basswood strips weathered with “Weather-It”

I’m taking notes as I go, including thoughts for future steps; I’ll include those thoughts, even if obsolete, so my thought process shows.

Materials used for this blog entry:  Northeastern Scale Lumber Company HO scale 12 x 6’s for the frame, and Northeastern Scale Lumber Company HO scale 2 x 12’s for the deck.

After building the frame per the article, it was off some, so I had to pull the ends off. I then cut the deck boards to the right length and used them to line up the side sills.  I have no idea how well it will work.  But, at least, if the decking doesn’t come out to the right length with regards to the boards, I can sand the sills down a wee bit.  (Next time, I’ll have more wood, so I can vary the widths randomly, as some flat cars did.)

Before attaching the deck boards, I first applied “Weather-It” to the end and side boards.  After a few dabs of rubber cement, I painted the sides and ends with Floquil CNW green—there’s enough boxcar red around already.  When dry, I rubbed off the rubber cement—instant peeling paint effect.

Actually, using the deck boards to hold the sides together, then adding the end pieces, worked nicelu—though the car is VERY slightly askew.  I used Locktite Super Glue for some of the boards, and carpetner’s glue for others—carpenter’s glue costs less.  I’m going to continue building the car for practice, and see if it looks askew later on.  (Right now, it’s fine—if nothing else, I’ll use it for an improvised bridge or loading platform.  My scrap gondola is loaded with pieces that weren’t quite good enough, but now are serving a useful purpose as a freight car load.  I had to sand the main sills slightly.

I applied “Weather-It” to the deck boards, and that’s where I am now.

Skewed

I had that issue with a car I built a few years back. Made me realize that jigs are worth their weight in gold or maybe I should say the time to build them in gold. I write the size of each piece with an arrow pointing to it's location in the jig on the base. Wood models use styrene for the jig. Styrene models use wood for the jig.

Once the jig is made you can crank out a lot of different cars with the same basic jig even if you only use it for the outside frame of the car.

Looks good by the way.

Jack

...

A thick flat metal square is a pretty good building jig.

Jigs next time

I now have two flat car bodies--the first one was not askew my a noticeable amount; I measured it carefully.

More pics as time permits--both for construction and for posting.

Flatcar Build

Have you given any thought to building the flatcar body around a piece of flat brass?  The brass could be used to keep construction square, adds weight for dependable operation and would help insure that the car body does not warp.  Just food for thought for your good looking efforts.  

Good plan...

I've used LEGO bricks to keep things square, but building around flat brass or a piece of plastic cut to the dimensions of the interior of the frame seems like a better plan.  Thanks all for the thoughts and ideas--this is my first project where the frame is scratchbuilt.

Truss rods and other parts

Now that I got the rest of my parts from Colonial, I'm working on the car.  Photos tomorrow, in decent light...

I put Tichy bolsters on the ends--much easier than trying to make wooden ones come out right. The queenposts are in place, and truss rods are 3/4 in.  I made my first jig, out of plastic, to make sure all the truss rods are identical.  The truss rods are .015 music wire, since that's what I have on hand--next car, I'm using brass!  I love music wire for handrails that can be easily damaged--but truss rods are safer.  On the other hand, Blacken-It works on steel, but not on brass.

Tichy arch-bar trucks are ready for installation, and I have a Tichy K-brake set.  Next time, I get the Accurail one--much easier to manage, and, being under the car, not as noticeable.

My goal is to have the car ready by Tuesday, and show it to people at the club.

Finished...

Regrettably, I neglected to take pictures after the ones I posted.  I ran the car last Tuesday, to favorable comments.  So, here it is!

It wasn't at all hard to build, and I'm pleased with it, though the next one will come out better.