The Details

Here's the installation from underneath (the fascia is at the bottom of the picture):

The basic idea is that one Bullfrog is thrown by the fascia control as usual, but it drives a second control rod that loops around and throws the second Bullfrog (note that the second BullFrog is mounted facing backwards). Since I want the crossover route activated by pulling the knob, the first control rod connects to the turnout on the rear track (think about which points get thrown which way, and you'll see why this is).

In the standard kit, the connection between the two control rods is done by using a Z-connector that's threaded at both ends. However, I have enough trouble screwing the yellow rod onto the Z-connector in the standard single-turnout installation (while lying on my back under the layout, and that @#$#$% wooden wrench thing keeps stripping, and....), and I found having to screw the second control rod onto two Z-connectors simultaneously, while also making it the right length, was just about impossible.

The control rod system sold by Fast-Tracks comes to us from the RC airplane hobby. The maker, Sullivan, also sells clevises for attaching their rods to the device being controlled. The way these are used is: you screw a 2-56 threaded stud into the end of the yellow rod, screw the clevis onto that, then clip the clevis to the BullFrog (the nicest part about this is you can do the hard bit – screwing the stud into the rod – at the workbench instead of under the layout).

I found Sullivan parts in stock at a local RC shop, so I threw away the Z-connectors and used clevises instead. As shown in the closeup below, the “incoming” rod clips into the hole where the Z-connector would normally go, while the “outgoing” rod uses one of the holes where the second micro-switch actuator would go (if you were using it, which I'm usually not).

There's nothing special about the wiring – install a micro-switch on each BullFrog and drop a feeder to each frog, just as with a single turnout.

I like the clevis pin method so much that I'm using it for most of my regular turnout installs as well. There is also a nylon version made by Du-Bro. They cost only about a dollar each and save more than that in frustration!

Nice install.

I have a similar installation for my crossover junction on two freemo modules representing the ATSF(BNSF) over the Santa Anna River in Colton Ca. Both crossovers have been in operation for about four years now and only needed a small adjustment early on. The BF operate Atlas #10 turnouts and they have proven reliable. The double ended Z bend would have been nice, but were not available when I built my modules. I also drilled a new hole and used the clevises, but that disabled my ability to use the second micro switch for signal indication. I am sure there is another way though I have not looked into it.

I do not like the spongy feel for of the flexible rods so have been using solid rods to actuate. These can be bought from RC stores all threaded or just one end.

Happy railroading Steve.

Very cool.  I'm currently

Very cool.  I'm currently switching over from Caboose throws to Blue Point.  I was hoping to do something like this but hadn't thought it through yet.  Thanks for posting!

Great timing, I was thinking

Great timing, I was thinking about ways to do this the other day in an effort to eliminate tortoise machines and have the mechanism connect to the outside of the turn outs (not between) the rails. Thanks for sharing.

Rob in Texas

I just finished a Freemo

I just finished a Freemo module with a cross-over and did things a little differently. I used 2 blue points and an aluminum bar between them with a center pivot on a screw.The bar is attached to one side of the first blue point using the RC control clevices and the control nobs are extended off each side this blue point. the bar then connects to the opposite side of the second blue point. Works very well and is quite robust.