Steam Engine Conversion

A while back I won a MDC HOn3 2-8-0 steamer.

It's going to be converted to a TT scale steamer when I get done with the GP38-2 project.

Bernd

Decided to clean up a CP

Decided to clean up a CP Pacific Pyke D4g 4-6-0 that I've finally had time to start working with. A previous owner installed a Sagami can motor, but they used caulking to mount the motor. Once the frame is cleaned up and repainted I plan on making a styrene ramp to cradle the motor. The boiler and cab only need minor touch-up paint. The WOW decoder is in the mail and will require some hidden coal deck modification to mount the speaker as it is impossible to mount it from below due to the manner that the tender was braced. There is lots of room in the tender from below for the decoder. Sure to be a fun project. 

A day on the beach

I’ve wanted a Sand House for Atherton Yard for some time. It completes the set of engine services so things look “right” but also provides another industry: – sand deliveries.

This is my first 100% scratch built project. I’ve just taken ideas from a number of structures and sized it to fit the location (very small!). The build is well through now and I just need to convert one of my wife’s icing nozzles into a sand hopper base.

A thought – Joe F mentioned the lack of scratch building articles in MRH being down to lack of supply.

I suspect that a lot of people scratch build things and when finished take a photograph and post it.

The item may generate a lot of interest and questions about how it was made.
Short of building another one, which is unlikely, we are never going to see a step by step guide.

This WOYW thread can often present an early view of ‘something to be’. If you are interested in an item why not ask if it’s possible for the builder to document their build. It can then appear on the forum pages – possible even as a magazine article if you catch the eye of Joe’s Team?

Rob
Cornhill & Atherton RR

Truck

Not strictly “on the workbench”, but it was and will be again by the time anybody reads this.

Delivery truck (Jordan) in the process of weathering and painting. Just temporarily placed in its final position to check track clearances, front wheel turn angle and flatbed height against loading dock.

Rob
Cornhill & Atherton RR

Lack of photos while building may indeed

be a big reason for lack of articles on scratch building.  I find that I only decided to do an article on one building as I build copy #2 of the building.  #1 is going to the club payout and #2 is going on my future layout.  And #2 has the added advantage of having "done it before".  But, the second building still has a ways to go.  (I had the first one judged for AP credit, and it was close, but the judges made some suggestions, which I am retro fitting to #1 and building into #2 from the begriming.)

I am also working a set of 4 scratch built cars, but haven't finished them yet, so the article isn't finished either.  (Just found the wire stirrups I want to use and am waiting on them.)  Also found some neat tie down chain for them as well.  Since they are wooden flat cars.

Lack of photos

James,

Looking forward to seeing your article. I can understand the lack of photos. Not easy to figure out how you're going to build something, then take photos only to find it didn't work as you planned. I've run in to that with my projects. Finally when something works you move right along and forget to take photo's of what you have done. And of course it takes a bit longer to writing up the details of what you have done.

Bernd

Bushes

 .

GP38 drive u-joints

Finally have the u-joints done for the TT GP38-2 drive.

Bernd

U-joints

Bernd, asking purely out of curiosity.... did you make your own u-joints because it was super cool to do or because readily available components couldn't adequately perform the function?

Why U-joints?

Two reasons actually. One was that the neoprene fuel line I've used on the eddy current transmission has an off center hole. When run at a high rpm would cause vibration. Not so noticeable on an HO heavy brass frame. The frame/chassis of the TT scale model is lighter, the vibration was worse. I was thinking of using the ball joints as used on the high production HO scale models, but figure they would be unobtainable. If you take a close look at any of the drives in todays products you can see that they are very loose in tolerances. Has to be that way for high production rates.

I've always wanted to try making u-joints that small to see just if i could do it. The prove will be when a motor and trucks get all assembled and the first test run is done whether it was worth all the work. So yes it was also a cool factor.

Bernd

Bachman's "Bethlehem Steel

Bachman's "Bethlehem Steel 100 Ton Hopper" stripped of it's D&RGW marks, painted Flat Black then sprayed with Clear Gloss in preparation to receive Norfolk & Western decals and weathering. 

Taskboard test strip

Here's a picture of Taskboard® glued down with Titebond® liquid hide glue. The Taskboard® was stained with indiaink and alcohol. The ballast I've had for umpteen years. It's not yet glued down.

Thank you Michael Rose for the inspiration to use Taskboard® and Pliobond® glue. Great stuff.

Bernd

What's on your Workbench this week?

Not much, just a repair job on my wife's necklace which shed a clasp somewhere so I made a wire replacement...DaveB

u-joints

Bernd, very impressed work!

And a question. Can you set a link of an enlarged view behind of your pictures, please? I would be lucky to study such detailed work in high resolution pictures. Thanks!

Bigger Pictures

Bernhard,

I have a website also where I post more detailed pictures of this project. I have not updated it to the point of the pictures I have posted here. If you are interested in such detailed work you can visit my website and see more.

http://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/index.html

Bernd

Just a few more details

I just keep adding more and more details to the interior of my machine shop, I think I am getting close to being done. I figure a couple of hundred more pieces and I can move onto lighting.

Machine Shop Memories

Greg,

I got so caught up with your machine shop, that I recalled a big project I had worked on years ago, and found nearly all the right equipment in your shop! Very nicely done. I really liked the raw stock area often missing in models. Now if you added a table saw and a broom and trash bin, I could "finish" my old project in my memories!

Thanks for sharing your work.

Best regards,

Geoff Bunza

The machine shop is looking

The machine shop is looking great.  The only think wrong with it... it is too clean.  I needs a grimy wash on it I think.

Machine Shop

This just shows the incredible depth of our hobby. With the machine shop you can see that as the construction pans out, there is a project within a project (probably within a project !).

This is brilliant.....

Rob
Cornhill & Atherton  RR

Donald and Mickey don't get a ride

Large Scale D&M hand car with bad pickup problems.

Not the best design as one has to unsolder the motor leads to disassemble the lower part of the chassis.

The culprit was another problem which I have seen on other pickup designs. The carbon brush is held against the back of the wheels by a small spring forcing the current to flow through the spring to brass strips which carry the current to the motor wiring. Where are the other three springs? Melted into the plastic brush housings. Lionel actually designed small heating elements into another car!

The fix is fairly simple if one has spare spring assemblies from the now defunct AristoCraft. The AC assemblies come with brass housing to hold the spring assemblies and conduct the motor current. Drill out the plastic housing to accept the brass tubes, trim the tubes to proper length, insert springs and brushes and finish reassembling. Now I just have to spend a few hours rummaging in the spare parts bins for the parts I use to have.

Got to get this one running for a club member's grandchildren.

Geoff: Some of the last

Geoff: Some of the last details I ma needing to add are the trash bins and brooms. I also still have some singage and other details before I would call it complete. The shop photos I have don't have a tablesaw, but I do have one so if I can find a good place I may stick one in for you. =)

TJR: I still have some weathering to add, I don't want it to be to dirty as people have to work here. I do have some debris I need to place in around and may hit the whole thing with a covering of dust to cut down glare.

Rob: Yeah, I think I may be a little obsessed with detailing, but it looks so darn cool when it is done.

Box Car Blues

36' Box in primer before final painting.

This is a very old Mainline Models basic kit and I must say I was most unimpressed with the overall quality.

Nevertheless, fun to build and useful "training". I have quite a few complex wood n' metal kits to build and I don't want to mess them up.

Rob
Cornhill & Atherton RR

Main Line Model kits

Nice looking box car Rob. I have a few of the older craftsman kits to assemble. Among them are Ambroid, Silver Streak, Qualitycraft, etc. Now all I have to do is build them.

Bernd

Craftsman Kits - Mountain to climb?

Bernd - your comment about having some kits to assemble prompted me to dig through my Kits n' Bits store since I've been eBay buying these for a while without doing an inventory.....

Mixed emotions here - anticipation of lots of fun, but need to dole out the fun in small chunks I think .

There's only 1 kit here that has me worried. When I opened the North Eastern Models Norfolk & Western Wooden Hopper Car I felt a stab of fear - seriously hard thing to assemble!

Rob
Cornhill & Atherton RR