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InterMountain 4750 18 rib covered hoppers Locos and rolling stock
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Active Member 74 posts Dr Dirt Active Member 74 posts
Dr Dirt

Hi all,

         I am building 4 of these kits.I find that the instructions are 'lacking' in what part goes where and how.Any tips from folks who have built them? Even prototype photos links?It's mostly the ends that I need.

 

Thanks for any help,Kev
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drolsen New member 4 posts
drolsen

PS 4750 Detail Shots

Hi Kev, I've taken a few detail shots of CSX PS 4750s for modeling purposes. Here are a few examples that might be helpful: CSXT 251012: http://drolsen.rrpicturearchives.net/rsPicture.aspx?id=671734 CSXT 251715: http://drolsen.rrpicturearchives.net/rsPicture.aspx?id=654468 This is a Trinity-built cars that followed the same PS 4750 design, so it might be useful also: CSXT 260961: http://drolsen.rrpicturearchives.net/rsPicture.aspx?id=815667 Lots more of my photos of CSX 4750s starting toward the bottom of this page: http://drolsen.rrpicturearchives.net/rsList.aspx?id=CSX&cid=4&Page=2 Here's a CP car: CPAA 629059: http://drolsen.rrpicturearchives.net/rsPicture.aspx?id=445275 One thing to note is that there are many variations in the brake details among various orders of PS 4750s since so many were built, so you might want to pick one car and stick with it to avoid getting confused by looking at photos of several different prototype cars. Hope that helps! Dave
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kjd Frequent poster 572 posts
kjd

Did you get the help you needed?

Did you get the help you need?  I built three of them in the last week or so.  I found the ends to be the  most challenging.  I didn't follow the directions, that's why they're there, right?  Not to be followed?  

I found putting the four little braces that attach to the end cage on first was much easier than putting the end on first.  I used solvent cement (MEK) so I could still move them a little to match up to the end cage when I put it on.  Tweezers and needle nose pliers are a must.  

I also put the brake gear on before the end, actually even before I installed the brace it sits on.  The so called "triple valve" sits on the two pronged pointy thing and the small 'S' shaped piece sits on the other pointy thing with the end of the S attaching below the bottom of the triple valve.  The two pipes from the air reservoir fit into the notch on one side of the triple valve so make sure that side is toward the reservoir.

The trainline goes from near the coupler to the hole in the end sheet.  Technically, there are at least two more air lines that are left out.  One would be a supply line and would T off the trainline and go to the triple valve.  The other would go from the triple valve to the brake cylinder(s).  I hope I'm not too late to be of help.

Paul 
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Omaha53 Active Member 31 posts
Omaha53

It is easier to not follow the instructions exactly

I have built several dozen of the IM 4750 kits. I have found that there are several steps which are easier if done in a different order from the instructions.

The ends can be tricky. The square tab on the side sill braces is a bit long so it needs to be trimmed slightly so that the brace fits tightly against the car. I put the side sill braces on one end first and then the end ladder structure for that end on immediately, so that the side sill braces can be adjusted to fit in the correct place. Then I do the same for the other end. I then install both valves on the diagonal brace before installing the brace on the car. After the valves are dry then I install that diagonal brace. The two pipes on the air tank are a bit long so they need to be trimmed slightly so as not to put to much sideways tension on the triple valve. I then install the air tank. Then I install the remaining three diagonal braces and then the side ladders.

When I install the hopper dividers I only glue them on one edge. This allows the car sides to bend out slightly when installing the roof assembly. You can then press the sides back to normal.

The best way I have found to install the hatch hinges is with a pair of needle nose pliers that grips the entire hinge so as not to damage the thin plastic hook. If the hook gets bent you can use the tip of an xacto knife to gently spread it apart. The styrene that IM uses is somewhat flexible and very forgiving.

When the hinges are dry the hatches can be installed by standing them on edge with the hinge rod piece down. Slide the hatch rods down between the hinges and the hatch rim. Then rotate the hatch to horizontal so that the hinge rods come up and into the hinges. Do this carefully and they will usually pop into place, if not gently try it again.

If you are modeling a car with no shakers then the holes need to be filled in and sanded very early in the assembly so as not to damage any of the small details on the car.

The hole in the end of the car where the air pipe is inserted varies from kit to kit. Some of them are partially obstructed so the end of the air pipe needs to be trimmed. I tried opening the hole but that can cause damage.

Since I am painting and decalling undecorated kits I do not install the roof assembly until last. I paint the car and the I use clothes pins to attach a ruler to the side of the car which I then use to line up the major lettering on the car. The small lettering at the bottom of the sides can be lined up in reference to the bottom sill.

I assemble the roof assembly during the assembly of the rest of the car and then set it aside. It is more efficient to work on a section and let the glue dry while you work on another section. I often assemble six cars at a time and move from one section of the cars to another and then back again.

If you have any questions feel free to ask.
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