ray schofield

I have been using  Badger 200 and  Badger 150 air brushes for many years. The 200 is a single action and gets a lot of use. It is getting worn out from taking it apart to clean it. My son Neil uses the 200 and is happy with it, having gone through several. Scott Mason thinks the Iwata Eclipse is better (he used to represent them) There is a big price difference. Does anoyne have experience with both and if so what is your opinion?

                                                                                                        Thanks 

                                                                                                              Ray

Reply 0
duckdogger

No Iwata experience but I

No Iwata experience but I have lots of finger time with Badger, both single and double action. If I need lots of paint coverage quickly, my medium tip,350 is the answer. For more detailed work with excellent control over the amount of paint hitting the surface, then I use my 360. As with any style or brand of airbrush, cleanliness is next to gawdliness.
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dannyrandomstate

Iwata vote here

I use an Iwata Eclipse. I must say that it can handle everything I need from large areas to fine detail. I have some experience using the badger stuff, and in my opinion the Iwata not only feels better in the hand, but performs a smidge better. But in the end it's what the user is comfortable using. A dime a dozen, or twelve for ten cents.... It just depends on where ya shop.

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ray schofield

Thanks guys., what type of

Thanks guys., what type of paint do you use? I do mostly Floquil, but occasionally use Polyscale and Modelflex  acrylics. I generally use the Badger 200 for the floquil and the 150 for the Acrylics. 

Reply 0
JodyG

I use an Eclipse HP-CS and

I use an Eclipse HP-CS and absolutely love it. It is far easier to use then the typical bottom feed airbrush. They also seem to be far less susceptible to clogging. I am a very happy customer. I shoot Polly scale, Floquil, Tru color and occasionally Scalecoat. 

Reply 0
joef

Iwata

After listening to John Smith of Iwata describe what they do to manufacture an Iwata, it's clear to me why the Iwata costs what it does and also why many airbrushing pros will only use Iwata. They are built to last, to avoid clogging, and to spray a very uniform coat of paint - all traits modelers need. The saying you get what you pay for seems to really apply here. If you want good tools, you often need to pay more.

Joe Fugate​
Publisher, Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine

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Read my blog

Reply 0
jrbernier

Badger vs Iwata....

  I have used an Iwata at several clinics - A very nice air brush.  I have a Badger 200 that is from the 70's.  I have replaced the little round seals and the tip/needle(dropped it).  It has been very reliable, and is my main air brush for general painting.  I also have a Badger 105 Patriot - This is a dual action air brush that is gravity fed from a cup.  And I have a Harbor Freight dual action air brush(on sale and a gift certificate burning a hole in my pocket).  It is not the quality of the Badger, but at about $20, what do you expect?

  The big issue with air brushing is 'cleaning'  the tool as soon as you get done, not later.  When I was spraying Floquil/Scalecoat paint, I always ran lacquer thinner through the air brush and many times took the air brush apart and soaked the metal parts in lacquer thinner.

  Clogging - Thinning the paint is key to prevent this.  Thin the paint to the consistency of 2% milk.  The amount of thinner depends on the brand of paint and even the color(due to the pigments).

  Acrylics - This is becoming the norm as paint lines convert from solvent based paints.  Acrylics dry much faster and can build up a 'scum' ridge on the tip of your air brush.  Badger has a replacement tip available that is just for using acrylic paints.  When shooting Polly Scale, I thin the paint with 71% isopropyl, but distilled water works fine as well.  Polly Scale colors differ and you will need to experiment with the thinning as the pigments vary.  Badger Model Flex is 'air brush' ready - But does not brush paint very well.  I just got some Micro-Mark paint and it sprays great(so far).  It is made by Vallejo for Micro Mark.  Based on the reputation of Vallejo, I suspect this may be my 'standard' paint in the future.

Jim Bernier

 

Modeling The Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin

Reply 0
dannyrandomstate

paints....

I mostly shoot craft acrylics out of mine. I thin with windscreen washer fluid. I tried thinning with water, but the results were always hit and miss. I switched it up to the washer fluid and knock on water every time so far has been great! Smooth finish and excellent coverage.

I finally broke out the Tru-color paint the other day. I am shooting UP armour yellow. So I am satisfied with this paint. It states air-brush ready on the container so I haven't thinned it yet. But I have not had any problems with clogging or splattering.

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ctxmf74

There is a big price difference.

  I've found medium price brushes are fine for modeling work. I've used badger in the distant past and Paasche for the last 20 years or so. My VL and VSR 90 are still working fine so I haven't kept up on the latest brushes. Looking thru Dixie Arts website I'd probably go with something like these. Paasche VL 3 needle set or Talon 99TG if I wanted a top feed for finer work, both cost about $75 delivered. For Badger I'd look at the 155 Anthem or the 105 Patriot for a top feed version, about $78 each also. Comparable Iwata brush might be the Eclipse BCS for $105 and the HPCS top feeder for $140.  I think the big decision is top (gravity) feed or siphon feed and I like to have one of each so I'd spend money on two Paasche or Badger brushes before spend the same for one Iwata. If you know you'll only be using bottom feed from a bottle or top feed from a small cup then you might be better off going with one more expensive brush but you wouldn't know till you tried them all. I think it's kind alike the auto scene, Paasche is Honda, Badger is Toyota, and Iwata is Lexus or BMW, they all get you where you want to go with a minimum of fuss ?  :> )......DaveB 

Reply 0
ray schofield

Input

Thanks for all the advice

 I am as confused as ever, but at least have plenty of input. One thing. I have never used a gravity feed and can get enough paint on myself with the siphon feed. I am a little concerned with the open container. Any thoughts on this issue? I am think of getting the Iwata just to try it.

 It is funny at the club today two members who love tools and would NEVER buy from Harbor Freight were busting my chops about thinking of spending the money on an Iwata.

Reply 0
dannyrandomstate

cup

The top feed I have has a cover. It does have a tiny vent hole in the middle. As klutzy as I am sometimes I feared the same. But knock on water I haven't had any exxon valdez type spills yet. As long as you are not shakin the snot out of it you should be ok. Slow and steady and everything will be ok.

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JodyG

Just take the little metal

Just take the little metal holder bracket that comes with the kit and attach that to a sturdy piece of metal or the side of your workbench. Get in the habit of docking the airbrush in this holder and your life will be far easier. I rarely paint with the cap on the color cup, and I have yet to dump it over when operating in this manner. 

Reply 0
ctxmf74

have never used a gravity feed

The big advantage is when doing weathering where you want to change colors a lot. with the top feed you can just squirt in a couple of drops of paint and some thinner and keep going,it will feed with a small amount of paint. If painting a whole loco I'd probably use a bottom feed with bottle instead. That's why I'd rather have two brushes than one. For a single brush the decision would have to be made as to how much time will be spent doing whole paint jobs versus weathering or other small quantity jobs? ......DaveB

Reply 0
Yaron Bandell ybandell

Gravity fed cup or siphon bottle?

I've been researching for my own near future air brush purchase and my eye has fallen on the Iwata Eclipse HP-SBS. It features a side feed, allowing for a gravity fed cup or a siphon bottle to be attached. I also think that having the cup on the side will make it easier, in some cases, to see where you air spraying your paint when working at a short distance from your object: no cup to look over...

Of course this is just my thought, with only an ultra cheap single action siphon bottle air brush prior experience 20 years ago.

Reply 0
AnEntropyBubble

You just could go hog wild...

airbrush.jpg 
 
OK only 2 are mine.  The middle one is my girlfriend's and I have forbidden myself from using it without her permission.
 
I started with a Badger single action about 25 years ago but haven't used one since.  Since then I have used a number of Paasche VLs The Paasche VL kit is the one I have been using for the last 15 years or so.  Great brush - I don't think you could go wrong with one. Its a dual action siphon feed it comes with 3 needle sizes (5,3,1), 2 bottles, and a side cup (that mounts to the left). Unfortunately, last year it took a trip to the floor and I broke the trigger.  Paasche has a replacement part, but along the line it has been redesigned ever so slightly and my trusty brush just hasn't been the same since.  From the manual here are the tip sizes and spray sizes:
 
Size 1 Tip size .022 inches or .55mm 
- Used for fine detail. Pencil Line to 1'' patterns 
- Paint must be thinned further than 3 & 5 heads
 
Size 3 Tip size .029 inches or .73mm
- Less detail than size 1 head. 1/32'' to 1-1/2'' patterns
- Can spray slightly thicker paint than size 1 head
 
Size 5 -Tip Size .042 inches or 1.06mm
- Less detail than the size 3 head. 1/16'' to 2'' patterns
- Can spray slightly thicker paint than size 3 head
 
I generally used the #1 and #3 tips.  The number #5 tip only got used when I was spraying thinned Bher latex paint.
 
Then the words "Maybe I should get a new air brush..." drifted though my head. I wanted to see if there was different manufacturer out there that people were using, I wanted to try a gravity fed brush just for ease of cleaning between small jobs (i.e. weathering).  Then I got intrigued by being able to set the final air pressure on the brush (MAC valve).  Months of internet searches later and soul searching I ended up with looking at Iwata mainly because no one was saying any thing really bad about them (yes, they cost more - but you get what you pay for was the general feeling).  
 
I looked at the Eclipse HP-CS but i thought that the spray pattern was too big for my tastes.
 
Iwata Eclipse HP-CS: (gravity feed)
- Tip Size: Standard .014 inch or .35mm 
- Hairline to 2 in. spray pattern
 
The Hi-Line HP-CH seemed to be a popular choice and had the features I wanted (plus I didn't want to teach my better half how to air bush on my buggy VL)
 
Iwata Hi-Line HP-CH: (gravity feed)
- Tip Size: Standard .012 inch or .3mm 
- Hairline to 3/4 in. spray pattern
 
I was so impressed by the HP-CH, and in an act of total self-indulgence, a Custom Micron CM-C Plus was purchased.
 
Iwata Custom Micron CM-C Plus: (gravity feed)
- Tip Size: Standard .009 inch or .23mm 
- Micro-Line to 1 in. spray pattern
 
It arrived this morning.
I just tried it out.
here's what I think:
 
wow Wow WOOOOOOOW! 
 
Andrew
Reply 0
ray schofield

decision made

I bought an Iwata Eclipse HP-SBS on line. I will 

                                           thanks Yaron your idea sounded good, and thanks to all for their advice and input. I will let you know my thoughts after I get to use it.

Reply 0
dannyrandomstate

good choice

You won't be let down.

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