Joe Brugger

Can't see a problem with this but thought someone else might have some experience.

Is there any issue in mixing small-head HO Kadee couplers like the #58 with the standard size #5 and variations? The thought is to put scale-size on locomotives and cabooses, and use my large stock of #5 couplers on general rolling stock. The small heads look nicer in photos (except for the giant coil spring) but the rolling stock is meant for an operating railroad. 

Trackwork is pretty decent and the grade transitions are very gradual.

Joe in Portland

 

Reply 0
Prof_Klyzlr

Yes, and no, ...mostly maybe...

Dear Joe,

Mechanically the differing size heads do couple together, and Kadee promote both as being backwards/forwards compatible. However, some modellers have reported issues with the auto-coupling and delayed-uncoupling, due to the differing "gathering ranges" of the differing sized heads.

If you are a hands-on skewer-uncoupling kinda guy, you should be fine. If however you rely on magnet-uncoupling and push-together coupling-on-corners operation on your layout, then such mix-n-match situations may cause frustration down the track (esp over time as the mechanical tuning of the couplers may not be maintained adequately...)

Happy Modelling,
Aim to Improve,
Prof Klyzlr

Reply 0
wp8thsub

No Issues Here

I have a mixture of Kadee types and experience no problems with the "scale" head and other sizes coupling and uncoupling reliably.  I use skewers for uncoupling, so can't opine on magnetic uncoupling performance.

Rob Spangler MRH Blog

Reply 0
nbeveridge

Mixing KD5 and Scale Couplers

I say don't do it.  I have seen no end of trouble on several layouts.  Yet I hear of others, like Rob, who say it works fine.  I can tell you this -- the Midsouth Model RR Club in Baton Rouge tried to switch over, and they found that the scale couplers gave problems even when mating with each other, and even worse when mating to KD5's.  Ultimately, they pulled all the scale couplers and went back to KD5's.

 

It's a personal choice.

Norman

Reply 0
jeffshultz

#5's, #158s, #119s oh my...

Joe, 

I mix and match without any issues that I've noted. 

orange70.jpg
Jeff Shultz - MRH Technical Assistant
DCC Features Matrix/My blog index
Modeling a fictional GWI shortline combining three separate areas into one freelance-ish railroad.

Reply 0
Ironhand_13

It may depend

upon a grade you have to traverse, or rather how sudden of a rise.  I had a rather abrupt angle 'going up' when I had some different sizes and things drifted apart.  A slow speed up that area revealed the smaller head lost grip, literally coming up and off the other. It was a Kadee PS-1 boxcar with scale, smaller head couplers and a larger Kadee #5 (I think). A slight adjustment to my riser under that area of track fixed it, but beware.  I needed a more graceful and gradual transition form one grade to another, and it actually looks and runs all cars better, so it was a hidden blessing.

-Steve in Iowa City
Reply 0
Mike MILW199

Mixing sizes

I do what the OP has planned: scale heads on locomotives and cabooses, no. 5s on most cars.  Works fine for me. 

I do find it is very helpful to have a Kadee gauge set up with a No 58 installed, and make sure the mounted scale coupler lines up exactly with the gauge.  The smaller head leaves no room for error. 

On the equipment I primarily use on my table at home with 18" radius turns, I generally stick with no 5s on everything.  The greater gathering range helps out on the tight turns.  The table is flat, so no issues with vertical separations. 

 

Mike  former WSOR engineer  "Safety First (unless it costs money)"  http://www.wcgdrailroad.com/

Reply 0
kjd

Mixing sizes

I've been putting KD scale couplers on most new things but there are lots of old things with standard #5s.  I've never had a problem.  The only new thing that gets #5s are rotary dump coal cars.

Paul

 

Reply 0
santa fe 1958

A mix

I have a mix of #58's and #5's, most have now been converted to the scale coupling, and do not generally have a problem but (and there is always one but!), I do sometimes have an issue uncoupling on a curve. I do use a skewer for all my uncoupling. Brian

Brian

Deadwood City Railroad, modeling a Santa Fe branch line in the 1960's!

http://deadwoodcityrailroad.blogspot.co

Reply 0
santafewillie

Problem here

For the most part I don't have a problem once they are coupled together, and I have no problems uncoupling using either a skewer of Rix uncoupler. I have no ramps so I can't comment here. I do have problems coupling up though, even on straight level track. I have to occasionally use the skewer to open the jaws of the scale coupler, or make two or three attempts. My experiences only.

willie

Reply 0
John Colley

Mixed Kadee's

Joe, it depends on the use, for instance if a loco is always used in the lead position a scale coupler on the front is great for photos. Also on both ends of a caboose, they look great. At our local club (Napa CA) we follow  Joe F's and SP tradition of really long trains with multiple power lashups. Not only are our pulling couplers #5's but they must be metal, the plastic ones just don't hold up to club use. John Colley, ex Port Townsend, WA but now in Sonoma, CA

Reply 0
Doug Alexander

What works for me

I have been moving to Kadee's "scale" couplers for several years now.  I find that as long as they are mounted at the property height, 158's ad 5's work well together.

My favorite coupler is the true scale couplers from Sergent Engineering.  I have insalled them on most of my locomotives.  They are compatible with Kadee "scale" couplers, but not with standard head No. 5's

 

Doug Alexander

Atlanta, GA

 

Modeling the Southern circa 1941

Reply 0
James Leighty Jim Leighty

They work together, sometimes

I personally feel that you can not beat Kadee 5's especially the whiskered version. Backing a passenger train or coupling on a curve with mixed types can be problematic. The 5s look fine to me and simply work the very best if you are big into OPs like I am.

Jim Leighty

Central New York and New England Railroad

Blog: https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/jim-leightys-blog-index-12227310

0tiny(1).JPG

Reply 0
Rob McLear

MIxed Kadee's

I don't have a problem with mixing because I don't do it.  I run on a club layout as well where the trackwork is not what I could or would call above average, in fact the old layout is something like 20 years old and the trackwork is quite frankly bad.   The new layout is being constructed at the moment and is to the point of being able to be run on with helix, dips and rises and crossovers and assorted complicated trackwork.   I have run 50 car trains on both and have had no issues at all and I use the Kadee 158 and short shank versions of the same scale head whisker couplers exclusively.

The trick with them that I have found is that they have to be mounted at a perfect height level to work efficiently there can not even be a minor deviation in height levels from the gauge.   I am pedantic about it in any case as it is one of the things that can make running a nightmare, the other two being wheels out of gauge and  lightly weighted cars mixed with heavier ones.

I use them on locos and passenger cars as well and have had no trouble there either.

Just my 2c worth.

Rob McLear

Australia.

Reply 0
Reply