Re-building FreeMoN module - part 2

  Part 2 done rendered and uploaded.

Part 3 soon

part 3 - Attaching the fascia

and the last little bit for now ...

Toni

Great job

Absolutely Fantastic!

Toni,

These look great and light weight!

I love it.

Part 4 - attaching a luan top

  Thanks for the comments guys!

  For the 8 foot yard I have planned I am doing a solid luan top.  Originally I came up with this method of module building to use the foam as a structural member.  But for a yard which will have a lot of turnouts, I thought it would be a pain to carve out a lot of foam to allow mounting of Tortoises, Bullfrogs, or other types of control.  Using the luan also gives something solid to mount ground throws as well.

Here is the track plan I have in mind for the yard.

  It will require a minimum of a 2 foot lead, which can either be a mini-Mo, or I have a set of passing track curves planned which could be reversed and used.  The width of the module is 18", but the mainline is centered as though it were built on a 12" wide module.  I don't know if this violates the "spirit" of FreeMoN, but it makes module construction much simpler!

  Each 4 foot module weighs in at just under 11 pounds.  I think that is pretty light.  Could it be lighter?  I'm sure it could, but I am trying to keep materials costs down and make it something that you could have your Home Depot cut for you and be able to put it together with little more than basic hand tools.  I know that I am using a lot of power tools in the video, but It's only because I already have them.

Toni

Fantastic ideas on light

Fantastic ideas on light weight modules, I am surprised though that you are using hot glue. I really enjoy the edited video, no extended fumbling

Keep up the good work!

Additional bracing

Toni

Since you went with the luan top instead of foam, you should look at adding a brace perpendicular to the end boards, under the track or as close as you can.  My last wooden top module developed a drop of over 1/8" in the first six inches.

Doug W

Additional bracing

Doug,

  Yes, there will be some additional bracing!  I am waiting until I finalize my track plan and method of turnout actuation.  If I go with a ground throw, it won't make any difference where I put my bracing.  But it could make Tortoises or Bullfrogs a real pain to install!

Akibro,

  I may regret my choice in using hot glue to speed up construction.  It IS FAST, but, It does not allow joints to fit as tightly together as they should.  So far it has been the wood that has failed on the stuff that I have tried taking apart, not the glue/wood bond.  How well will it hold up in the back of a pickup on a 90 degree day?  I have backed up all the hot glued joints by also using brads or staples as well. I had a bit in the video about using different methods of construction, but it seemed a bit rambling, so I hacked it out .

Toni

ski jump

Toni

I know, but having to retire or rebuild the modules because of the "ski jump" that develops at the ends.  My ski jump got so bad between the two modules, cars would uncouple and the modules had to be retired.  Gone foam tops since those modules.

Just saying.

Doug W

Still have not rebuilt the old module ...

... but I have built a few others!  

  It has been awhile since I updated the blog.  Since the last entry I went to my first ever operating session.  The PNW FreeMo-N group has gotten together twice - once for a group module frame build, and again for an electrical/track laying work party.  

  I have been working to get the old curved modules up to snuff, adding fascia and throttle panels.  I also built another set of curved modules that form a 90 degree passing track.  We are getting together again in August for a tech inspection/setup/ops session.  My hope is that I will also have the new 'ColdStor' module set at least running by then also.  Then there's the 'easy' stuff like scenery and structures to do...

I have made a few more videos covering my methods for building a module - here's a list of links:

  Some of them are a bit rambling, but if you suffer through them I am sure you will have some ideas of how or how NOT to build a module!  

  Any questions or comments - please post here or in my YouTube channel.  I try my best to answer, and maybe I can learn a thing or two as well!

Until next time ...

Toni

Hot Glue + Carpenters Wood Glue

Hi Toni,

One of the neatest glue ideas I ever saw was using yellow carpenters glue and hot glue on the same joint.

He used carpenters glue down the middle of the joints and 1" beads of hot glue on each end.

It allowed him to remove the clamps after ten minutes and still get a lifetime joint.

Your ultra-lite module looks great.

Dual gluing

Thanks Bruce!

  I know M.C. Fujiwara does wood glue/Cyanoacrylate to get some initial quick stickum and the durable hold as well.  If I have enough surface area, i would definitely try the wood glue/hot glue combo.  It may eliminate the need for a staple/brad/screw.

Toni