I don't use the #4, but I do

I don't use the #4, but I do use the Kato track. I think the problems people have is due to the point rails. Seems the ends are a bit blunt, and there is no real pocket for them to fit into in the stock rails. I think a little file work is all thats needed. .....Mike 

Filing

Mike, you are correct. That is the only issue that the #4 has. If you file it. the problem is secured. I am a true believer of Unitrack, although my layout does not have any due to the scale, but I wish they will make it in all the popular scales. Unitrack is bullet proof.

Can't comment on the #4's...

....as I never used them, only #6's but I can comment on Unitrack. If you don't mind the geometry limitations of sectional track, like no easements for instance, then Unitrack is great stuff. They even offer matching ballast for it so you can ballast the plastic roadbed and make it more realistic.  I liked the working characteristics of the Kato ballast quite a lot too. Another great thing is that they have already super elevated curves available.  I used it on my next to last N layout before switching to HO.

Michael

We were having big problems

We were having big problems coming out of a curve directly into the points of a #6 turnout at our last show. The points kept derailing the train.  We had to reverse the train on that loop to prevent the problem.

As for the #4, I've never seen any problems. They seem as reliable to me as the #6 -- and with a whole lot of extra versatility that the #6 does not have (power, removable motor wires, etc). I don't know why Kato gives all the extra functionality to the #4 and the #6 has nothing.

Glad to hear re #4

I have 6 #6 so far and quite happy with performance.Not coming directly out of a curve on to them though. Would like to try the #4 in the yard and I had read somewhere about problems with them. Have now ordered one to try.I like the unitrack system. #4 costing $37 plus post where I am [OZ]

Got #4 today

and unpacked and the package looks great BUT need some info on the " special type of Unijoiner [included] used at this point". I have #6 in use but they are different. The other comment on the pack about Selector screws has me intrigued too - if I instal the turnout as is will that be OK? The removable motor wire seems a good idea.

The "special type of

The "special type of unijoiner" is needed because full sized unijoiners won't work on both rails off the frog. The 'half' joiner has to go on one of the frog rails.

For the selector screws:

1) Power Routing -- If both power routing screws are in the power routing position, when the turnout is thrown straight then the curved track after the frog has no power. If they are set as non-power routing, there will always be power ot the rail after the frog.

2) Frog Power -- I believe if ON], the frog will change power depending on how the turnout is thrown. If OFF the frog will not be powered.

Also note that the turnout is in fact 126 mm long rather than 124 mm. The cut strait is 60 mm which when used makes the turnout the proper length of 186 mm.

And the curve is a 481 radius. A 481 reverse curve keeps the "standard" 33 mm spacing between tracks.

#4

now installed and operating without any problems - no modification done and all locos and stock negotiating normally.Will certainly get some more.