Richlawn RR V2 - Adding "invisible" feeders to the track

To make the holes for the feeders I took a 3/32" piece of brass tubing and used a small file to file "teeth" in one end.

I used a loose tie to get the correct spacing to locate the holes for the feeder wires between the ties.  I used my hand power only to twist and push through the cork and 2" foam bench top as close to the rail as possible.  It went through very easily.

Next I stripped the wires and pushed the 16 ga feeder wires down through the holes being careful to observe the same color coding for all rails.

I then bend a right angle on the end of the wires and flattened the "tip" of the wire that will be soldered to the underside of the rail.

I tinned the wires (no picture), applied flux to the underside of the rail, pulled the wires down, rotated the wires so that the tip was at a right angle to the track, and pushed it up under the rail until it contacted the rail.  I used my soldering gun to apply heat to the rail while using one hand to maintain upward pressure on the wire during soldering.  I tested the connection and then used alcohol to clean the flux off the joint.  The final step will be to add the ties after they have been trimmed down to the correct thickness to fit under the rail joiners without distorting the track.

The result will be feeders that will be virtually invisible once the track has been ballasted.

Looks good.

how did you flatten the wire ends? Before or after bending??  The lazy man's method of making them invisible is to solder them to the side of the rail that's opposite the viewer, The near rail will have them inside the gauge and will need them kept down below the flange depth while the far side rail will have them outside the gauge and no flange issues......DaveB

Feeders

I solder my feeders to the bottom side of the rail before placing it on the layout.

Then I drill holes and pull the wires through after gluing the track in place.

Looks familiar

I don't do it exactly the same way, but my feeders look very similar when complete.

Flattening the wires.

Bill B - I like your idea

I also solder them to the

I also solder them to the bottom of the rail so they become completely invisible. I'll show you how I do it the next time you visit.

It works very well...

I solder the wire to the bottom of the track using a spade style tip on my weller iron.

Tin the rail, Tin the wire. Touch them together and heat. let cool and test with a tug,

Once the track is installed, I drill a hole between the ties and slide the wire down through it.

I give the wire a tug from the bottom and *pop* it's gone.

And no solder on the side of the rail.

Bill - nice!

At the bench...

I should have mentioned, more clearly, that I pre-solder all of the track feeders at the bench. It's much easier to do this on the bench vs on the layout.

I hope to begin soldering feeders to track for my staging area on Tuesday night.

How far along are you on the trackwork?

How about a room shot of the track?

Scott, I've done a little video of the progress thus far

Scott,

First, thank you for allowing me to do a modification of your "HOG" (Heart of Georgia) layout that you designed. [See http://hogrr.blogspot.com/].  A friend of mine (not yet to be named) helped me by doing some modifications to it in SCARM to it's present design.  I've since added one additional turnout and spur for another industry.

Except for the doodlebug line all of the trackwork has been installed along with the turnouts and the turnout controllers which are Tam Valley "Singlet" models.  I'm currently adding power feeders to the track.  Here's a link to my posting on the progress that has a video:

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/10822and click on "Video of current state of railroad as of 11-10-13"

Here is a rough not to scale picture of the track layout - click on the picture:

16 Gauge?

I have never used anything larger than 20 gauge wire for feeders. It's the  flow of electron so as not to build up resistance. Connections every 6 ft or so with the soldered rail works great. With your size layout a track buss using 14 ga is more than enough. Track buss carries the load. 

I like the 'drill'

Using a tube with teeth filed into one end is a clever idea, for a foam base.  I pre-soldered myself, but still a good idea.

Option 254: Wire the rail connectors

Hi,

Looks good.

Personally I soldered the wires to the rail connectors (at the bench). After installing the rail, I drilled small holes next to the connectors and pulled the wires down. Same as you, after ballasting they're gone.

Mostly I have feeders at every other connector, with many of the non-feeder connectors being isolating (to allow for blocks). So there is almost every piece of rail connected to a feeder wire via its own connector. Some people tend to solder their connectors, which I'm too lazy to do.

Anyway, I guess there are at least 254 methods to attach the power to the rails One could even make the attachment to look like track circuits

Have fun!

Nice work Rick and Bill. I

Nice work Rick and Bill.

I like to solder before laying the track. My wires have to go through foam and hollow core door. To get them through I insert brass tubing into each drilled hole, tubing long enough to protrude on the underside, then I feed the wire into that and pull the tubing through, bringing the wire with it.   Because I have to drill deep holes I've sharpened a skewer into a pointed spade end, and I drill with that. It works like a charm.

Then it's onto the job I really hate: crouching down to solder the feeder to the bus wire.

20 gauge wire

I solder 20 gauge stranded red & blue wires to the underside of the track about a inch or so back from the end of the flex track with that distance I can solder the rail connector if needed which I do. Pull the two wires up the center (between rails) of the track, lay the track in place with caulk or glue after it is set I drill a small hole (1 hole) in the center and fish the wire thru. To make the job of getting the wire thru the road bed, foam and wood I use a straw glue in place flush with the road bed, cut the bottom side off and feed the wires thru. Ballast covers the entire connection.                                                                                                                                                                                                                      

Why 16 guage

suitcase connectors

I have a question about using suitcase connectors for stranded bus wires. Since the connector uses a 'knife' that cuts into the wire, wouldn't it cut through the strands causing a possible poor connection? Would solid wire be better?

Randy

Suitcase connectors with stranded wire

Thanks Rick. I always

Thanks Rick. I always wondered about those connectors. I am still planing on just soldering my feeders to the bus, but may have a change of heart when I start wiring my yard tracks.   Now get back to work!  I wanna see some trains running around your room.     

Randy

Not a Problem

I use 3M Scotchlok 567 connectors on 12 AWG stranded bus wire and 18 AWG stranded feeders.  This combination works just fine.  

Ditto Not a Problem

If you select a Scotchlok  IDC that is designed for the size and type of wire you will use, there should be no problem.

Dante

A word of warning

A word of warning. Don't buy the cheap suitcase connectors they tend to fail and do not clip shut all that good.

Spend the money on 3M brand and you should be al set.

I for one have stopped using them (because I'm cheap). I just remove some casing from the main bus and wrap and solder the feeder to it.