Getting Started

Lighting is complete, benchwork is complete, it is time to get some rails down. Step 1 - put my paper track plan in place on the benchwork. It has worked as my blueprint thus far, no sense stopping now. Sub-roadbed will be made from this print.

There is a new post on my personal blog with a lot of detail and a step-by-step plan of how I am going to go from paper track print to ready to run trains.

I would be eternally grateful to any of you for providing your feedback on the plan.

http://www.lkorailroad.com/track-laying-begins/

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Tried three browsers, got three unable messages.  Site down?

Paper Track Print to Ready to Run Trains.

Hi Alan

My 2 cents worth on roadbed Installation……….

Looking at your Blog plan you and I seem to be following a similar path (yet again) although as usual, your level of detail and care exceed mine considerably.

My experience of using Xtrack Cad for sub-roadbed installation was quite smooth.

I printed out the 1:1 track plan on A4 heavy duty paper, cut down registration lines and taped securely at the joints. I then cut back to the sub-roadbed edge.

You end up with a bit of a floppy template, but that’s why I used heavy paper and very secure taping. I also designed the benchwork in Xtrak as well and found it useful to include this print layer on the trackwork print to assist with template positioning.

I then used the templates to cut out the sub-roadbed from 12mm plywood.

If a level section (like a station or yard then it just gets fastened to the bench work.

If on a grade, I install risers at the start and end of grade then install the sub-roadbed and use temporary wedges to get a smooth grade from start to end .Any vertical curves can be 'worked in' at this point. When happy that the grade looks correct, I fit intermediate risers.

In general I find that the best tool for confirming alignment (in any plane) is the human eye. Many times I’ve measured everything to the nth degree, but after assembly it just doesn’t look quite right.
I still do all the measuring, but basically I trust what I see.

I try to keep the amount of sub-roadbed to a minimum (even in yard areas) to allow for foam sheet infill at every opportunity. The world is very un-flat and I like to have undulating scenery (no matter how slight) wherever possible. Trackside drainage ditches are also easier to make.

I then glue closed cell foam sheet to all yard and sub-roadbed areas using Copydex. This is a great rubber-like adhesive that retains good sound deadening characteristics when dry, grips really well, but allows non destructive removal. You can roll the adhesive off most surfaces using your finger tips.

I then re-cut the templates, but right back to the track work edge (results in an even floppier template!) and re-install on the closed cell foam/sub-roadbed using pins to hold in position. The track position can then be marked on the foam using a marker pen + turnout frog and tie bar positions by punching through the template with a scriber. At this point I ditch the templates.

Track laying can commence at this point – Copydex again.

After the track is installed and commissioned (that’s a sore point right now – see my last blog entry) I will cut the closed cell foam back to the track edge at an angle to create a roadbed profile for ballast laying. As I said before, Copydex means I can peel off the waste foam easily.

Not sure how much of this is relevant – you seem to have all bases covered with your detailed plan

Rob

Cornhill & Atherton RR

RE:

Hmmm.... everything appears to be working. Try the default current post link:  http://www.lkorailroad.com

Rob, our processes sound amazingly similar. Thanks for taking the time to spell yours out in such good detail. I will look into Copydex. Sounds like the ideal adhesive for the application.

Looks Like a great rr

Love to come operate love bench work no legs lighting great. 

Alan

I will be heading to your site now, been waiting for this for a long time as a long time reader of your blog. It's a shame our government has not put the attention to detail, planning, and thought in to major operations that you have in your railroad.

I know the track work will take some time due to your high standards but it will be worth it. I am anxiously awaiting the day that trains are running so I can enjoy some videos of trains on your layout.

Rob

Foam in between sub roadbed.

   I used the same method on a recent layout and next layout I decided to add a solid sheet of 1/4 inch plywood to the top of the benchwork before adding the sub roadbed and the foam on top of the plywood.. The solid surface made it a it easier to glue the foam in place , I didn't have to worry about cracks between the foam edges and the sub roadbed as I could just shoot caulk into them and the plywood would stop it from falling thru,plus being glued and nailed to the benchwork the plywood really strengthened the sections. 1/4 inch ply might be overkill for this use ,even 1/8" or door skins should work if weight was an issue.. ...DaveBranum

Re: Art, Dave, and Rob

Art, you are more than welcome to drop by.

Ha! That will never happen. Thanks for your kind words. 

Hmmm... interesting idea. May have to noodle on that for awhile. My initial reaction is that it is not needed. My benchwork is already very rigid, the foam will be a reasonably precise fit to the sub-roadbed due to the direct tracing, and I like the ease of punching holes all the way through with a simple brass tube. Still, the idea is worth considering. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give it serious thought.

"My initial reaction is that it is not needed"

    You are correct, it's not really needed but I just found it simplified the process for me. I could draw out and test  the track plan on the plywood before cutting the sub roadbed and it made a solid working surface so I could leave tools and material on the benchwork during construction. It also made it less important to get a good joint between the foam and the sub roadbed as I could just fill any gaps with putty and the plywood acted as a backer surface. I would not use the plywood if the layout has a lot of up and down land contours as the plywood would make it harder to build creeks and canyons, etc. My layout built this way was basically flat land with only about 3/4 inch of variance from high to low spots.  I'm using a similar construction on my new N scale layout but used 1/2 ply for the benchtop surface and will use a very thin layer of foam or surfacing compound since N scale contours are pretty small. The 1/2 inch ply makes it very easy to screw switch machines to the bottom of the layout( I'm using Blue point controllers)  .....DaveBranum

Anticipation is thick in the air!

Making printed track plan suitable for use as a cutting template

I made my 1:1 track plan print by taping together a gazillion individual sheets of paper. I did that with Scotch tape at the corners. Now that the plan is on the benchwork I need to stretch it taunt. The Scotch tape joints aren't liking that action. Plus the lack of full seam page-to-page attachment causes the paper to do odd contortions when you pull on it.

Clear packing tape! I slid a piece of 1by under the plan so it spans the benchwork, temporarily pin the plan to the 1by, and then put one continuous piece of packing tape across all the page seams. Press it down good and move to the next seam. Of the sections I have finished this way I can really stretch the paper plan tight before I pin it to the benchwork. The packing tape joints add an amazing amount of rigidity to the otherwise floppy paper print.

Heading to Office Depot for more tape.

Sounds like a broken record but isn't

Yes, I move a glacier speeds. Guilty. But like the giant blobs of ice and snow I do move!

I ended up reprinting much of the paper track plan for two reasons - moisture (I assume) and minor track changes. The more packing tape I applied the more it became evident the paper plan has shrunk, curled, distorted, or otherwise changed shape over the past 3 years. Wonder if 2 years laying on a concrete basement floor had anything to do with it? 

Out of frustration I hit the print button and commenced taping together new pages. About half the plan was reprinted. My second issue, discovered as I aligned the plan into its final position on the benchwork, were a few clearance issues resulting from me failing to plan all the construction detail. Some architect I would make. For instance, one of the 2x4 studs that support a corner backdrop cut right across a helix ramp. I spent a good amount of time looking for any more of these issues, moved track, reprinted, and spliced in new pages. Lastly, I decided to incorporate a paper mill that had been in the design a long time ago and was removed. As I surveyed the track plan for trouble areas I kept having the paper mill in the back of my mind. Oh, the heck with it, paper mill is back. A little rearrangement to the mine track to make space and presto, paper mill is in the plan again. I am good to go now.

A fresh stack of fine looking 3/4" birch ply is waiting on the workbench and a long 4^th of July weekend is coming. The glacier is picking up speed!

Here are some pics if you are interested:  http://www.lkorailroad.com/track-plan-positioning/

[EDIT] Sorry, wrong link first time. Fixed now.

"A little rearrangement to the mine track"

Changes always show up. That's why I don't spend too much time detailing fancy track plans , seems like I usually find a better or easier way to do it once I see the design full size in the room. I decided to use a Micro Engineering #6 turnout here instead of a hand laid #5 so had to glue some extra width to the sub roadbed and move the switch stand a bit to the left as shown by the red sharpie lines.All fixed and ready for cork now..DaveBranum 

Alan

Looks good, somebody plug in the saw so Alan can get started on cutting that stack of sheet goods into right of way. I can almost hear the wheels clicking over the joints now. That is going to be one fine railroad Alan.

Rob

Broken Record

I found similar issues when I  started laying track. Like I've said before I trust what I see over what I planned.

I also expect to move a few things when buildings actually go in, however I digress............

One thing (which you have probably considered bearing in mind your thoroughness) is the routing of DCC Power and DC Accessory Busses. I put them in after laying roadbed without too much thought and came close to having problems when I started fitting Tortoises. Fortunately I had left enough slack to be able to ease things in - but this was more good luck than good judgment.

See below - the twin Tortoises caused a bit of a squeeze !

Have a great week end and let us know how it went

Rob

Cornhill & Atherton RR

A place for everything, everything in its place

I think you will be surprised by my methodology of track laying, switch motor mounting, track wiring, etc. Or, I may prove once and for all I am totally bonkers! I'll let the suspense build until I have photos to share.

"had left enough slack to be able to ease things in "

  I learned that long ago so now I allow a few inches of leeway for switch locations, siding and spur lengths, curve radius, etc. Once the benchwork is built I can then stand there and see how everything fits best in actual size and visually do the math. My under table wiring looks much like that photo except the wires snake around Blue point controllers instead of Tortoise machines.....DaveBranum

Don't Believe the Naysayers

So often I hear/read about people bad mouthing the lumber at big box stores. Dig this... I have been cookie cutting Home Depot 3/4" birch plywood for the past three days. Sheet after sheet and I have yet to encounter a single void. Yes, you read that right. Not a single void in all the cutting. It gets better. I have yet to find an overlapped ply. It could be that I picked sheets from an especially good stack or simply got lucky. But I am here to tell you this is some mighty fine plywood. I'll add that the face veneer must be very well bonded to the core. It doesn't splinter out whatsoever when cross cut. It's not the least expensive but compared to lumber yards it isn't the most expensive either. It is a very good product for the money. I like working with this stuff.

Home Depot 3/4" birch plywood

I will have some pics of my progress in the next few days.

Making Progress

I have about 2/3 of the sub-roadbed cut and roughly in place as my long weekend draws to a close. I'll finish the remaining third and then go back to do the final positioning and dress the joints. Right now they are all cut a tad long so they overlap.

http://www.lkorailroad.com/sub-roadbed-progress-update/

Risers Done Differently

Well, once again I am deviating from the established norm. How about roadbed risers that sit on top of crossmembers instead of being attached to the side? Am I loony? Perhaps. But it worked just fine in my trial setup. I chalk it up to building the benchwork straight, true, and rigid. Remember, the benchwork some of you said was overkill? It is now paying its first dividend. Risers on top work well! Riser mass production has begun.

Get all the details and see the riser assembly line here:  http://www.lkorailroad.com/risers-for-the-flatlands/

How about roadbed risers that

Alan,

I've been doing that for a long time. I use the same wood for both pieces but that's really the only difference.

Why?

What is the benefit of this approach?

Never Mind!

I checked the blog

Michael

Glad I didn't say it was an original idea!