Detail

The exceptional detail and coloration of the printed brick/stone in many cases offsets the lack of 3D elements like mortar joints IMO. The addition of actual 3D details like you have done with these structures makes printed textures on buildings even more believable to the eye. Well done sir!

Thanks!

And best of all, I can represent prototype buildings I recall from long ago, and these buildings fit the most strangled of model railroad budgets!

What Did You Use For Glue

I have done several of these and use 3m spray adhesive , is that what you are using.

Elmer's white glue . . .

 Believe it or not!  I print the graphics on 80 pound cardstock, then spread a thin layer of the white glue on the masonite building shape, one wall at a time.  The white glue lets me make final positioning and work out any bubbles or other problems.  I have some graphics buildings that are more than six years old, and the glue has held.

What glue to use?

I've used 3M Super 77 for applying paper and it works not to bad, but you definitely need to get the orientation right the first time. I have found that after a few years the 3M will release a bit on the corners, especially if you didn't get a nice heavy coat on in the first place.

What I use  now is clear paintable caulking. apply a few beads of it to your wall with a caulking gun and use some small plastic putty knifes to smooth it out. The paper adheres well, it is still positionable and once dry it will NOT come off. Unlike white glue the caulk  does not "wet" the paper so there is no bubbling or warping. I use the clear variety so it won't be to noticeable if you manage to get a little where it is not wanted.

This method works great if you  have to wrap your paper up, over and around obstacles, pillars, corners etc.

The really nice thing about using paper textures is that you can "paint" on your signs before hand using the computer and incorporate them into the brick, or whatever, and have them look brand new or so faded that you can barely read them. It's much easier to do this in pre production than trying to blend them in, physically, afterwards.

Wow, Rick!  Can't tell what's

Wow, Rick!  Can't tell what's printed and what's "real"!  Great work!  I purchased the Model Builder program and printed out some buildings for test purposes, but never took it to these levels.  Great stuff!

Those walls and signs look great!

I agree- these are an outstanding blend of printed graphics and three dimensional details!  

Looks great! Nice job. I've

Wow!

I believe Lance Mindheim has done some too, and it really puts you there.  Saves alot of time trying to do all the paint, dirt, what-not yourself.  I've done similar, smaller stuff as decals for old painted adds on a brick building as a test, and it looks good.  Actually scanned the side of the building then layered the advert over it and decreased the advert allowing the brick/mortar to show through, then printed, trimmed a bit, applied and matched up the brick.  Been done before I know, but it's always nice to do and see for yourself!

On30guy

looking again at your pics- is the brick outcrop on either side of the fire escape 3D or is it printed??

It'd like to know on some of these pics what's 'real' (3D) and what isn't!!

Double-sided adhesive sheet?

Is that like cut-it-yourself double-stick tape?  Will it let you reposition, or do you have to get it just right the first time?  Did you use it in your previous layout (which was spectacular!)?

Double sided adhesive sheets

Steve

The pilasters on either side of the fire escapes are 3D with the brick paper wrapped around them.

This is how the basic construction of my buildings is done:

Most of my windows have 3D sills and lintels applied but these are usually only the thickness of some cover stock paper. I do go back in afterwards, with a fine black marker, and draw in some shadows underneath these and that really pops them out.

Hope this helps.

RE: 1. Double stick sheet; 2. Pilasters

1.  Rick:  Thanks!  I get it - like laminating formica onto contact cement - make sure it's just right BEFORE the pieces come together!

2. Rick:  Thanks, also!  Your work looks great, and this seems to be an easy and inexpensive way to make graphic buildings into 3-D structures as well!

one more question

Do you weather the final product at all, to maybe blend things in with the over scenery/lighting?  If so how?

weathering brick paper

Steve,

Yes I do weather the buildings after they are assembled as the brick paper is just to uniform. I use various colours of  acrylic craft paint. Just a touch of paint is added to some methyl hydrate in a shallow container. The trick here is to make a very dilute wash and build up the grime gradually. I use dark colours in all the corners, around pilasters and all of the nooks and crannies were dirt would tend to accumulate. A worn out fan brush works well for this as you can't hold to much paint and it leaves a sort'a random texture on the brick. Dilute tans and white are used to simulate  streaks were the lime has leached out of the mortar, and of course some rust coloured streaks where ever something steel is touching the brick. I also use a lighter or darker shade of the brick colour and holding the fan brush horizontally just apply random blobs around the surface of the brick. This is using VERY dilute paint and helps to break up the uniformity of the bricks which are, of course, the exact same repeating pattern everywhere.

Hope this helps.