funny thing

I am in the process of weathering two Bachmann 2-6-0's and the side and front windows were easily pushed out, and I do mean EASILY.. It was kinda scary how easily.  The original front and right side windows in questions were pushed out by accident when this unit was sent to Bachmann for repair, and they thankfully sent them back.  That's when I decided to replicate it on the other side using a similar 'grip' and it worked. I forgot to do the same to the two windows in the rear-facing of the cab.  From gripping the shell I really have no idea how the front window sheet came out, except to say that it's poor glue on Bachmann's part?  They certainly looked over-glued to me. 

I was using thinned dulcote through an airbrush and not a spray-bomb, so I had control.  Wasn't until my last couple of passes I realized I forgot to take out those windows.  Well, everything has turned out ok.  It's barely noticeable but if you do look at it, it looks like slight dust, which being in the rear of the cab could maybe represent coal or ground dust.

My original intent was to use a mask of blue tape, until I decided to try and push them out.  It's going to be weathered anyway, so if it was a general mask across the area it would be ok to me.  So maybe try and give a very gentle finger-pressure push from the outside in, or use a mask?  Sure does make the front of that cab easier to weather without that windshield.

Only two options really...

If you don't wish to remove the clear plastic inserts, then your only other option is masking off the windows/lenses. Yes, this involves measuring each window, and cutting out an appropriately custom-cut piece of masking tape to cover whatever you don't wish to be frosted. I recommend using low-tack 'painters' masking tape versus the original beige stuff, it does make a difference.

As to which is more labour intensive (disassemble the model & remove the clear plastic vs. masking windows) when weathering &/or spraying clear protective finishes, I've done it both ways. Depends on the model/situation as to which I feel is more feasible.

oh well

the reason i was wondering was my pair of Athearn SW1000's look like a real chore to mask the windows and headlight bulbs (the cab interior's are real nice)

If the interiors

are real nice, then by all means take the time to mask it.  It will not gnaw at you later, for 'shoulda/coulda/wish-I-woulda'!!

You could try this...

cool I know where to get that

but how do i get it off?

Frog Tape?

Has anyone tried Frog Tape on their models?

I used Frog Tape for the first time a few months ago to paint a border in my house.

It works fantastically well and does not leave it's adhesive behind.

The trick to using it, is to press it on very well right before applying the paint.

When used properly NO paint bled under it at all.

Future

I've never tried it, but I've heard of people painting the windows with Future (or Pledge with Future - same thing) prior to coating with anything, and then using household ammonia to remove the Future (and anything applied afterward) at the end of the process.

You might try the technique on a scrap first, to see how it works.

Another option

In building a MILW F7A a few months ago, I experimented with dullcoating the windshield, and then removing the dullcoat with 91% isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab in the path of the windshield wipers.  Worked great, and couldn't have been easier.  Here are a couple pics.

Joe's method sounds

better than what I was getting ready to suggest. And with his idea of dullcoting everything, then wiping the windows with alcohol would allow you to leave some along the edges to look like dust, and if you were really patient, you could wipe it off leaving a shape that looks like that was where the windshield wipers wipe.

My idea was to use a toothpick and Vaseline to leave a coating. Then wipe it off with a q-tip and some alcohol.

Steven 

Windshield wipers

It's difficult to see in the photos I posted above (though easier in the second one), but that's the look I was attempting to create with that method.

dullcote frosting windows

 if the windows are slightly inset i found it very easy to mask the windows with a little latex mold material. Just apply it with a small paint brush or toothpick. Let it dry than dullcote away. after all is dry its veryeasy to peel off with a pin or hobby knife.

Frog Tape

"Has anyone tried Frog Tape on their models?"

Yes, and I highly recommend it if airbrushing with water-based acrylic paints.

Here are a series of shots I took of a couple of Kato SD40 shells getting painted/masked with Frog Tape.

Look ma, no paint bleeding!

Now the black portion...

Frog Tape is great stuff for airbrushing water-based acrylic paints. The tape seals itself when moisture gets into the seams and gels into a perfect mask. No touch-up painting was required by yours truly after all this masking. Absolutely no bleeding occurred.

And to answer any questions about why I'm painting on CP Multimarks instead of using decals, that's because I find it much easier to paint them, versus attempting to get the decals to snuggle nicely into the radiator sections.

Wiper Area

On a few FT-A models, I cut a wiper shaped area of masking tape and applied it to the windows. I then dullcoated the units. This left a clear area where the wipers clean and the rest was dirty. I wanted these units to look like they were rode hard and put up wet. The units had no interior detail.

Regards, John

*************************************************************************************************************************************************

Everything should be as simple as it is, but not simpler. <> Albert Einstein

I can't find 90/91% in my area

or at least where I've looked

90/91 %

Walgreens or CVS carries it.

masking windows

There is a procuct from Revell, called "color stop". It is like liquid rubber and you paint it on with a brush. It sets like rubber. After applying your paint, you simply pull this rubber layer off by grabbing it with tweezers or a toothpick. It is very easy, I do it all the time. I bought this product in Germany (where Revell comes from), I don't know, whether you can get it elsewhere. But I am pretty certain, that other companys produce such a rubber-based or rubber-like liquid masking film.

Having said all that, I do think, that spotlessly clean and glossy windows on an otherwise well-weathered model look disturbing. That's why - after all the other weathering done,  I give the windows a brief puff with dullcoat.

Just went through the Walthers catalogue (HO, 2012). There are a few entries under "masking liquids".

Hope, that helps.

Just simply clean off the

microsol will work?

i just used the last of mine, bummer

Microsol will work for future

Hi Steve I have

Hi Steve

I have successfully used Humbrol Maskol for many years. It is latex product that can be applied with a tooth pick or small brush.

It is purple in the bottle and turns purple when dry so it is very easy to see. Once you have sprayed your loco or whatever and it is dry you just pick off or out the Maskol with tweezers or a scalpel leaving a fresh clean surface. It should be available at a good hobby store.

No masking tape to cut and measure.

Rod in rainy Melbourne OZ.

I've seen Maskol

used by Pelle and some others in the MR Pubs, and it seems to be the easiest, for SMALL areas.  Not very cost-effective, I'm guessing, for a larger masked area.

R/,

Norm

Rubber Cement?

Could you also try using Rubber Cement as well?

I know I've used it on sides of buildings to show older paint peeling through during weathering.  I suppose it could work here in this situation as well.

-Rob
Holly Springs, NC
http://durhamsouthern.com/
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Simpler method

Look, let's not get too complicated here.   Stuff some paper inside the shell to block off the inside.   Then, paint the outside of the window surface with dishwashing detergent.   Let it dry.   Make sure that you have covered the entire surface.   Spray the Dullcote.   After it dries, rinse the window with water and the soap will come off.

Simple.

Steve Kay