arthurhouston

Many have their own tips and tricks hope you share after video. This video is one method that works. Their are two many on You Tube that do not. Wet water is to break surface tension on ballast.

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Ngwpwer

Yes

Totally agree with to much U Tube experts. Until your very instructional process I had been in doubt of why my base rock (really fine) was not sticking. I had put the mixed glue down and then the base rock, So now i understand the error of that method.  you have helped advance my knowledge as well as my understanding of the hydraulics of gluing materials!

Thank You Very much

RJ Myers

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Joe Valentine

Excellent instructional video

You are very clear and concise in your work and take time to explain your methods...much appreciated...Joe

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RandallG

Good video Arthur.

Just one question...


Ever heard of using acrylic latex caulking to secure track instead of track nails and having to fill and paint nail holes after the fact? Just wondering.

Randy

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arthurhouston

Why No Adhesives

I have a couple of areas on my layout that the original plan did not work out like I and operators wanted. In one case Apex Industrial was redone twice. If you use adhesives track is finished, can't pull it up and reuse.It may good for some but the one rr that i worked on that had used it result were not good. 

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CM Auditor

That's Why Randy Recommended

Latex Caulk!  It is easily removable so if if you need to change your track, just take some material, wash cloth or towel with warm water folded so it cover only the track you desire to change.  A one inch wide putty knife and you have your track removed with no damage.

CM Auditor

Tom VanWormer

Monument CO

Colorado City Yard Limits 1895

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Russ Bellinis

Still need to fill "nail holes."

I'm not sure about Microengineering track, but most flex tracks come with the nail holes already in the ties, so using caulk doesn't make any difference.  To make it look good, you still need to fill the holes.

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rickwade

No nail holes in ME track to

No nail holes in ME track to fill, which is another reason that I like using it.  In my opinion it is harder to form curves than with Atlas flex; however, I have the "Sweep Sticks" and they work great for forming curves!

 

Rick

img_4768.jpg 

The Richlawn Railroad Website - Featuring the L&N in HO  / MRH Blog  / MRM #123

Mt. 22: 37- 40

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seustis13

Easy Way

Ballast is one of those materials that can cover a multitude of sins.  Nails holes in the track - just put a grain or two of ballast in there!  Solder slubs because you (like me) are a klutz with soldering -  just put a dab of paint on the slub and pile on some extra ballast.  My own method 9works like a charm: (1) spray with wet water (a dollop of liquid soap plus water in your salvaged spray bottle -- laundry detergent, Tilex, Windex, Spray 'n Was, whatever your wife uses in a spray bottle), then spread whatever you use for ballast (Woodland Scenics stuff, sanded tile grout, etc.), then another spray, then eyedroppers of diluted white glue.

Sandy

http://www.sandysacerr.com 

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arthurhouston

Nail Holes Atlas Code 83

 

All of the track I have used in the past 5 yrs has required me to drill the nail hole in the track from the partically drilled holes on the bottom of the Atlas tracks.

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Nelsonb111563

Good Video!

Nice and informative video Art.  Liked the WD-40 tip and will try that.  One question, do you add a few drops of detergent to you glue mix?  I do to mine and it seems to work fine.  Also, your wet water bottle, do you find that  some times spraying directly on, moves the ballast some, especially the woodland scenics that are not really rock?  I have a bag of Woodland Scenics medium brown that even at times will "float" until saturated.  Needless to say I don't use it much.  Most of my ballast consists of real finely sifted gravel with play sand added. Your trick about tapping the rail bed really does work and actually did it last night for the first time BEFORE I saw you do it so I had to chuckle.  Anyways Art,  Nice vid and look forward to the next one!

Nelson Beaudry,  Principle/CEO

Kennebec, Penobscot and Northern RR Co.

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doc-in-ct

Helpfull - More on Turnouts

Thanks for the video, very helpful.  I would appreciate more video on ballasting turnouts.  As to the great WD-40 tip, the smaller cans have a 4 inch long extension tube for close in work and better control over the spray.

PS - Consider moving the camera less the next time.

Alan T.
Co-Owner of the CT River Valley RR - a contemporary HO scale layout of Western & Northern CT, and Western Mass.  In the design stage; Waterbury CT.

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alpha_1

Your Video

Art, I downloaded and watched your video the other day.  Excellent! 

 

Cheers!

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arthurhouston

Glue and spray.

Do not use detergent in glue put it in water, spray bottles puts out fine mist and does not move ballast including woodland's. 

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prsearls

Thanks for the good tips

After watching your video, I sifted some sand (in a tube for adding vehicle weight) I purchased last winter. Since I model Denver & Rio Grande Western narrow gauge, its natural tan color is what I want. I used two different sifters and ended up with three sizes: fine - 1.5 inch and smaller (O-scale), medium - 2 to 3 inch and coarse, 3+ to 12 inches. Sifting for the fine grade is tedious with an old tea strainer my wife has but in a few hours, I had three gallons of it. I'm working on a photographic diorama and the fine ballast gives the appearance I'm looking for. I'll be able to use some of the medium and coarse as well. Thanks for the inspiration to get me started on this project. Paul S

Los Pinos Northern Branch, D&RGW, On3, circa 1939-41

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Dave Winther dhwinther

Track adhesive and ballasting material

I must say I'm really enjoying MRH - what a great resource!

I have recently renewed my interest in mrr'ing, and I'm in the construction phase of a modest layout. Since I didn't have a firm track plan in mind, I initially began to lay down roadbed and track using a Elmer's Multi-Purpose Mounting Spray (shameless plug!). Very easy to use, and a thin coat on both surfaces will provide a good bond, but it can be taken up without destroying your track and roadbed.

I've experimented with some alternate ballast materials, and have come up with a combination of a couple colors of sanded grout and an anti-skid paint additive called TredTex, It's a granular mineral material (I guess). I mix these in different proportions depending on the effect I want, and am quite pleased with the result. The sanded grout comes in a variety of colors, so it's easy to customize to taste, it can also be purchased in 1 pound tubs so you don't have to buy a lifetime supply .

The sequence I've been working with is applying a thinned coat of white glue to the outside sloped edge of the roadbed, sifting a layer of ballast from a spoon onto that and letting it set a little bit, then spreading a full layer of ballast over the entire section and working it down with various brushes (disposable flux brushes are good, as is an old toothbrush). I mist that with a solution of water and rubbing alcohol (makes a decent wetting agent), and flow on a thinned white glue mix using an eyedropper. Sounds more complicated than it is, believe me. Pretty quick and easy, IMHO.

Falling in love with the greatest hobby in the world all over again! WOW, has the bar been raised since last I was active.

Dave Winther

freelancing parts of the SOO in my old home town. It's my railroad, and I'll run what I like!!

 

Dave Winther

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arthurhouston

THIS IS A DIFFERENT APPROACH

I wish and sure some of the reader would like to see you applications on Video, their is not one way to accomplish the end results.  Please try to do a video.  I will be happen to get you set up on You Tube.

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arthurhouston

Ballest From CO

Friend who has SN3 layout, brought buckets of dirt and rock home form CO to do his scenery.  Looks great did a lot of what you are talking about.

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