Part 2 of 3

Here’s an additional picture of my first #6 code 83 HO switch, built with Fast Tracks tools. 

I’m very happy with the results - I figured the first few I build are simply for me to get up to speed and get used to the process.  My expectations based on watching the videos have been sustained, that this is completely “do-able” for me, as long as I’m patient and take my time.  In fact, working on switches for a little while, then breaking to tend to other chores or projects, and coming back to working on the switch goes pretty well, as long as I am stopping at places that make sense: for example, after forming guardrails and points; after forming stock rails, and so forth.  I’m sure I’ll get faster with practice, but at least for me, avoiding being in a hurry for whatever reason is an important ingredient in getting the best results.

The tools and jigs do make handlaid switches very easy – the main thing with this approach is being comfortable soldering.  At one time I owned five or six soldering stations, some of which were loaners for folks to use while working on projects for me, so not only am I comfortable soldering, I’m comfortable getting other people started doing it on their own.  Even my wife can solder!  (grin).  I won’t be asking her to work on my switches, though!!

I took advantage of being able to carefully pull the incomplete switch out of the jig in order to examine it and see what’s happening as I go, which is very nice.

Based on the Fast Tracks video about making curved frogs, it seems better to get the stock and closure rails curved before any filing or other steps are taken. If there’s one thing that I’ve learned from the first switch, it’s that I want to try to get curves formed “on the money” as far as matching the jig is concerned, so they don’t pop out of the right shape when removed from the jig (for example, before they’re soldered in).  This “formed curve” is what determines whether the diverging route is on the money gauge-wise, and trying to tweak curved rails after they’re soldered to the ties is harder to do than when the rail is loose.  (I’m reminded about the saying about “Where does good judgment come from? Experience.  Where does experience come from?  Bad judgment”.   )

Since I’m building solid-point switches, I omitted the “H” PCB tie on this first switch. However, I’m thinking from here on out I’m going to include it anyway, since even though it can’t be used for securing closure rails, it can be used for the two stock rails (much as other ties that are only soldered on the outside of the rail for various reasons), and will provide an additional solid anchor/reference point where it might be handy to help coerce things to a more accurate placement. I know there’s tolerance for variation in the gauge, but since one point of all of this is to make accurate trackwork to reduce derailments and avoid operational problems, obviously being picky is better than sloppy in my opinion.

The Fast Tracks stainless-steel wooden-handle wire brush does an excellent job cleaning files, too; keeping the files clean is one way to ensure you’re not having to work any harder than you have to as construction proceeds.  (I have some official file-cleaning tools, but the brush is more efficient than they are).

Part 3 of 3

In some places, the instructions recommend using the Quick-sticks as a guide to how long the various rails need to be (assuming the use of Quick-sticks).  I did so, then measured the resulting pieces of rail, then made notes for those lengths on the printed PDF template (since that’s the PC tie “gapping guide”, although I’ve made pencil marks inside the tiebreaker that I then mark on the ties using a Sharpie once they’re cut to length). 

So, for example, a #6 frog rail needs to be somewhere around 4-1/2” or 5” long to allow for filing and to stick out past the end of the Quick-sticks; I’ll just cut them to that length in the future, and that’ll remove one additional thing (the Quick-sticks) out of the way while I’m working (since otherwise I don’t need the Quick-sticks until the point at which the soldered assembly is fully cleaned and prepped and ready-to-glue).  I have a pretty big bench, but with the instructions in an open three-ring binder, all the tools and supplies and etc laid out, the space fills up quickly.

I didn’t intentionally start out this way, but my cutting mat has ½” grid markings, and that has made it pretty easy to eyeball lengths of rail and so forth, so no tape rule or other measuring devices need to be “underfoot” while I’m working on switches.

Based on my past experience with electronics in general, I’m constantly using my multimeter to check continuity as the assembly of the switch proceeds. E.g. as I’m filing and gapping the ties, check each one; if I file the tie again, check it again.  E.g. once the stock rails are soldered, double-check that no shorts have appeared. As construction proceeds, there’s be a stage where it’s not useful to do this anymore, since until the rails connected to the frog are gapped, the frog forms a short.  Nevertheless, catching any short early will save some work trying to trace down the culprit.  Yes, this is a little belt-and-suspendery, but I like the reassurance that no “landmines” are being added to the mix.

The technique of using a Sharpie to mark the side of the rail to be filed away when using the Stockaid is also handy when making points, so you know you’re prepping the correct side of the rail on a point. 

I find the labeling on the Pointform a little confusing: the term “Point” and the arrow are pointing at the end of the tool where the rail goes in.  So the other end of the tool, labeled “Frog”, is actually the end where you are filing the “Point” down.  Now that I have that clear in my head, I can mentally double-check that I’m about to use the tool correctly.  (I recognize there isn’t a good answer here, as the actual surface that would be ideal to identify “what is what” is the surface that gets worked over by the mill file every time a point or frog rail is prepped).

Once I got to a fairly-close stage to completion, I noticed the soldered rail/tie assembly was “cupped” a little bit (e.g. isn’t sitting flat anymore, but rather the points end wants to float above the surface of my workbench (or the flat backside of the jig) when the frog is pressed firmly down.  I was able to gently flex things to coerce the switch back to flatness, but I’m wondering if anyone has suggestions for things to watch out for while assembling to ensure the switch stays flat when it’s removed from the jig.

I also noticed that, once the PC ties are in the jig, the rail is actually sitting “proud” of the grooves cut to hold it in gauge. This means it’s not a good idea to mash down hard on the rail anywhere except on top of a PC-board tie.

My first Quick-sticks is also cupped (for lack of a better term).  Is there anything I can do to flatten it out where it’ll stay flat?  I’d prefer to avoid expecting any kind of track spikes or glue or fastening to the roadbed will keep the thing flattened out (I’d prefer to have the switch more-or-less floating, with a minimum of glue or fasteners, so there’s a reduced potential for binding or other deformations that could lead to derailments.  Suggestions?  Since the Quick-sticks are basically thin plywood, I figure simply stacking weights on it isn’t going to be particularly efficient at getting things flat….

BTW.  The “Knew Concepts” jeweler’s saw may seem really pricey as compared to the Zona, but the cam action makes quick work of properly tensioning the blade after detaching and reattaching it.  The process of adding gaps with a jeweler’s saw is fiddly and approaching tedious, but this saw’s mechanism removes one potential area of frustration once you get used to the system, and the gaps are definitely very tiny and worth the trouble from a cosmetic standpoint. (I’m not a big fan of dremel cut-off wheels, either, since they have a propensity to shatter at the wrong moment, no matter how careful I try to be in handling the tool.)

I also figured out that any jeweler’s saw cut always needs to be done starting at the base of the rail, not the rail-head.  That way, if things get chewed up, it won’t be the top or the running surface that gets a little chewed, but rather something that’s buried down in the frog where it’s hard to see and unlikely to affect operation or cosmetics.  This is another area where just taking your time and being patient keeps the switch construction enjoyable and rewarding instead of annoying and tedious.  

As the construction process goes along, it appears the nooks and crannies of the switch jig attract dirt, flux, and so forth.  (So do the bottoms of the rails and the PC ties).  So, I think it’s a good idea to develop the practice of doing filing and cutting “away” from the jig, so none of the removed material or associated dust ends up as junk in the jig.  Same goes for using the wire brush: do so with the switch out of and away from the jig, so you’re not junking the jig up as you go.

Do you guys have any suggestions for what you do to clean up flux and other stuff that tends to get on (or down in) the jig?

I know Tim of Fast Tracks likes to use the metal-bristle brush to keep the soldering iron tip clean.  As mentioned earlier, my background is from electronics soldering, and I’ve used a wide variety of tip cleaning techniques, starting with the ubiquitous (and somewhat problematic) Weller sponge/water combo.  Eventually I ran across what experience has taught me is the superior method (even to Tim’s wire brush), which is to obtain and use a Hakko tip cleaner “metal sponge”.  This system has some advantages, the most important of which is that the metal of the tip cleaner captures the dirt and flux, keeping it out of the work area, and in general is neater.  You simply plunge the tip of the iron into the coils of the cleaner, and out comes a clean tip, which you can then tin and proceed onward knowing you’re avoiding what Tim rightly identifies is a common pitfall of soldering.  It also has the advantage of not requiring another hand besides the one holding the soldering iron – which means you’re less likely to burn yourself by accidentally touching the iron.  (Been there, done that, got the T-shirt). The Hakko cleaning system is fairly inexpensive, too.

The next “sub project” for me is searching for the appropriate-size clear or translucent plastic boxes to organize sub-assemblies, tools, straight lengths of rail, and completed switches.  Empty pill bottles work for individual PC board ties.  I have a large rolling toolbox, but I can see that having all the switch tools, jigs, and materials storable and movable as a unit will help keep things organized and make it easier to clear the bench when I’m at a breaking point in the process (not to mention making “Show and tell” sessions easier). 

Any suggestions from the peanut gallery on any of the above topics will be appreciated.

John “Steck” Stoecker

oh, yeah.

No, I'm not being paid by Fast Tracks to plug their stuff - at least, not yet

suggestions from the peanut gallery

  I'm building code 55 switches for my new N scale layout  similar to the fastrack type but not using a jig. I glue down the ties to thin plywood roadbed then solder the rails using an NMRA standards gauge. I prefer to add more PC ties than fastrack jigs hold as well as hinging the points to get better throw geometry and less stress on the throw bar and throw mechanism . Before soldering the rails I glue dummy wooden ties to the roadbed to fill in between the PC board ties. I've found this method easier than spiking rails to all wooden ties and more flexible than using a jig. I also suggest gapping all the PC ties on the bottom before gluing them down so a short can't develop if something get between the ties and connects the top and bottom surfaces of the PC tie. Once my turnouts are soldered I then glue the whole turnout assembly to the benchwork in the proper spot and fill in between the switches with flextrack. The soldered handmade switches don't look as good as good flextrack switches but they are sturdier and easier to repair if needed.....DaveBranum

re: Dave - jig-built vs. not.

(edited since I missed some nuances of Dave's reply)

I didn't really get into why I chose to go this route in my first post, but I'll summarize by saying there's no benchwork yet, and there won't be for a while until the weather warms up enough that I can work on it outside.  I decided that standardizing on some #6 switches would make a good starting point, and I could get more complex later if/when the need arose.

How thick is the piece of roadbed/sub-roadbed that you are gluing the PC ties to?  Makes me wonder if I could "freehand" stuff using "blank" pieces of the same plywood Fast Tracks uses for their Quick Sticks.

I'll probably add bottom-side gaps adjacent to any feeder wires I solder to the switch, since that seems like the most likely culprit of a short between the top and bottom layers of cladding.

Thanks!

Another FastTracks user here

....and my wife does solder them (she's an EE and knows how to handle an iron). I manufacture a batch of rails for several switches and put the different bits in a divided tray, then she will solder them up, and I glue it to the QuickSticks and lay it down. So we've got a bit of mass-production going. She even re-wrote some of the User Guide as an assignment in her Tech Writing course. I have a N-scale #6 jig, and also a 30/18 #6 curved jig.

For curving the rails, I highly recommend getting the Rail-Roller -- gives a clean, kink-free curve.

Also: BIG second on gapping ties top and bottom, and buzzing for shorts at key points during assembly.

re: Steve, EE wife

That's nice, makes it a family project (grin).  You are wise not to mention her name here to preclude other modelers attempting to solicit assistance  LOL

You should pass along that I applaud her applying her soldering skills to a known-solid relationship-building activity, model railroading! LOL

The rail roller is indeed helpful, and I'm using it.  However, there's some finessing required as only part of the stock and closure rails need to be curved, and the jig's diverging route is actually not a constant radius.

Are you finding that slivers of copper cladding are causing shorts?  I'm trying to get my mind wrapped around what the conductive element is, that throws the wrench into the works.

Thanks!!!

re: slivers of copper cladding are causing shorts?

Yes. I often find a shorted switch, and when I examine it under a strong light and magnification, I find a tiny whisker of copper across the gap, at the very edge of the tie. It seems that the file sometimes, instead of cutting everything through, just stretches the last maybe 0.1mm of copper and folds it over the edge. I sometimes think that I could fix the problem just by connecting a 9V battery across the rails -- that little whisker would be gone in a small puff of smoke!

finding that slivers of copper cladding are causing shorts?

Yeah that's one thing I found, also possible for  a drop of solder or other metal to fall in between the ties and make the connection. It might not be as big a problem in larger scales but in N scale it don't take a very big piece of metal to close the gap. I draw out the rail locations on the roadbed then cut the ties and gap the bottoms where needed then mix epoxy and glue them all down.

The plywood I use for N scale is some left overs I had in my workshop, about 0.10"  just a bit less than the 0.090 thickness of the cork roadbed I'm using under my flextrack. I've found I can glue down the switch and adjoining cork roadbed then lay the flextrack with caulk leaving a tiny ramp  down from switch to flextrack. The rail joiners hold the vertical alignment into a nice vertical curve, about 0.010 feathered out for about 3 inches. Since I'm modeling a shortline industrial switching district the undulations  don't bother me. If I was doing it for HO I'd measure the HO roadbed I planned to use then go looking for some suitable plywood to cut the switch blanks out. With your fastracks point jig and other track  tools it would be very easy to construct any special turnouts you might need such as  curved switches or odd frog angles....DaveBranum

My Solution to This Problem

Folks,

When ever working on track I set my Digital VOM up as a continuity meter between my two rails and if I make one of these mistakes, it immediately buzzes so I can get the alert when my action causes the short.  Makes it much easier to find the gremlins.

Digital VOM up as a continuity meter between my two rails

Actually it would be a great product if someone made a small buzzer that was built to gauge  so it could be snapped on the rails without wires for working on switches on the bench.  With the small circuits they have now days it shouldn't need to be very big, just large enough to hold a hearing aide or watch type battery? Having a continuous alert if a short develops would be a great convenience ....DaveB

Short detector

A simple buzzer can be made from a Radio Shack Buzzer, number 273-059, and a 9-volt battery.  Radio Shack has a batter clip, number 270-325 to make it easy.  Wire it all in series.  Perhaps could use short leads with alligator clips to connect to the track.  This then allows the buzzer assembly to check across any isolated/insulated track sections in addition to helping build turnouts.

Copper Slivers

I prep all of my PC ties before use by filing all of the edges with an emery nail board.  I find this removes the hanging slivers of copper and cleans up the cut edges of the ties.  It works for me.

Short detector circuit

Here is a link to "Wiring for DCC" that decribes a simple circuit for detecting a short as you are wiring. I haven't made one but it is on my to-do list.

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track.htm#a1

I'm also a Fast Track user (On3) and have had good success using their tools and techniques. 

Paul S

Timely Thread

Progress of a sort - Storage/Toolbox

As mentioned near the end of my previous post, I wanted to find some form of storage/toolbox/something to hold al the track-laying equipment.  I think I've got a good first-approximation answer to this, and I'm posting various photos and thoughts here in case this is something you might consider at some point.  I'm going to work my way backwards, to a certain extent, because if this doesn't look interesting or useful you can move on without wading through all my comments and so forth.

A picture of what I bought today, all closed up, from one of the major home improvement chains:

I've got some tinkering to do to optimize it for the track stuff which is why some things are just set as a "placeholder" and not completely loaded into the box. I would characterize it as sort of a combination of toolbox and fishing tacklebox. 

There's a magic dimension in the Fast Tracks world, at least as far as I've seen: 18", since for shipping purposes they like to send rail in 18" lengths. Everything I've gotten (so far) has been that or smaller, so it was a good starting point for my search.

18" objects fit into this particular box nicely, both the top and the bottom,  I took a list of dimensions of tools and supplies with me when SWMBO and I went to the home improvement store for items to satisfy her to-do list today.  This particular box is on sale right now in Nashvegas for approximately $20 +, (your milage may vary) and at the end of this post, I will offer some conjecture as to why I think it might be on sale and also summarize some drawbacks that might or might not be relevant to you.

Goal: hold all the track tools and most supplies in one place, including some tools that already have a permanent home in a rolling mechanics toolbox I have all my other electronics tools in.  (This rolling mechanics toolbox has been repurposed several times, and was bought used to hold "full size" tools for a 1:1 project that I'm done with.

I had the track-building tools and supplies in there, but in multiple drawers; and, although the mechanics box is fine rolling around in my basement, it's definitely not portable).

Here's a picture of the top tray with stuff placed in there as a first trial to see if the box will do:

The top tray has a dedicated full length pocket in the front, in this photo holding toothbrushes, the FT wire brush, rail, and the mill file.  I have other tools and supplies arranged to show there's room to hold quite a large number of goodies.

Note the back 2/3rds or so of the top tray has grey rearrangeable bins, sort of a tackle box crossed with one of those 4x4 puzzles where you have one free space.  Here's the top tray with all those bins in place, and the two larger ones have a removable divider (not relevant I think to my usage):

These bins are not simply sitting flat, there's an arrangement in the top tray to hold them in place.  Here's a photo of one of them upside down, so you can see what I discovered, locating bumps that keep the trays organized:

Obviously, not enough to lock everything in place over rough terrain with the box open, but if the open spaces are filled with other tools and such it seems like this will keep them from wandering.  Closed, I think the lid will hold them and prevent small stuff from migrating (although I'm a believer in sub-containers for things like PC ties, as you can see, a tall pill bottle holds full-length switch ties nicely)

Next, all the other stuff, which needs to fit in the bottom.  Again, a rough placement so I can see if most/everything is going to have a place:

Two fixtures, my little multimeter on the right, my solder station, tip cleaner, iron holder, solder, and the jeweler's saw.  Yep, it'll all fit.  Not much room for more, maybe another fixture if/when I get to that point (assuming it'll fit, the largest one here is 16" x 6").

The bottom is deep enough for the fixtures to sit on edge, which means I won't have a bunch of stuff stacked on them that has be taken out to get at them.  This is a definite bonus from my examination in the store, nice!

For those of you who might own Weller soldering stations (I own several, long story),  yes, they fit fine instead of the Metcal:

So the next thought was, it'd be nice to have dividers to hold the jigs and such upright. I went through several mental evolutions, tried something, evolved it again, and came up with this:

I think I can mount the two bookends to the sides and they'll keep things seperated at a minimal reduction of space, and a minimum of fabrication and such.  Sweet!

So, I think it's a keeper.  Now for some other things that might matter to you:

First, this toolbox is, in all probability, not "sealed" as such against water, so I would be cautious about where I placed it.  Here's why I think this is the case:

The way the box is made, it's designed to snap together, and the latches are at the bottom sides of the toolbox.  May matter to you, may not.

Here's another interesting thing:

yes, the top has legs.  They're up against the box when everything is closed up, but support the top when the box is open.  Good if there's heavy stuff in there, bad when you're trying to open it and there's something behind it (in this case, my shipping scale LOL).

I've noticed that when the handle is up, the tackle-box mechanism locks.  I don't know if it's strong enough to hold 30 lbs of tools in that arrangement, but I did notice that when everything's closed up and the handle is up, the toolbox stays shut when you pick it up, even without the front latches properly closed.  Some weight testing is in order before I trust this, but if weight doesn't faze the box, then that's nice too.

I'm guessing it might be on sale because of the legs, the unusual nature of the box, and the snap-together openings on the bottom.  Or, maybe there's an improved model coming out.  Or maybe I'm just randomly lucky it's on sale!

I was hoping to figure out a good place to hold switches under construction, horizontally, and I don't think that's in the cards unless I make a tray of some kind that would fit in over the soldering iron.  Maybe.  I also may run into other stuff that needs to get into the box that I've forgotten in the testing and photography (flux and microbrushes and pliobond just came to mind... nothing that's a show-stopper yet)

In conclusion: this box looks like a winner for my search, and satisfies something I've learned the hard way over and over again: if you don't get organized at the outset or as soon as you've identified the need, it just gets tougher later because there's always something more pressing on your mind by the time you get around to it.

Happy Rails to you...   :o)

John

Further toolbox stuff.

Clarification on the handle up / locking: this does NOT occur when the top tray is open.   Only when the whole toolbox is closed up; I'm not going to weight test it since I want to get it into service this evening.

More importantly (and another reason for it to be on-sale),  AFTER (woops) drilling holes for the book ends, I noticed a crack in the plastic in the right front corner of the bottom of the toolbox..  Since I had made "before" pictures, I can show you it was cracked when I bought it. At least y'all will know, since I'm not going to take it back after modifying it (and I'm hoping various modeling techniques can be used for repair if the crack worsens). 

This crack is the horizontal "lightning strike" (middle to middle right of the photo) that goes into a hole in this picture (and continues through it to the outside of the box).

John

Southern Pacific in HO, specifics TBD

Hand Make Switches - qUESTION

I am looking forward to  building switches.  I've got one question. How do you make selections on the switch numbers you want to make?  Here is my specific reference. I am working on my first layout in quite sometime. I've decided to start with my yard and service area (Specifically CSX's Cumberland yard).  I am going to dedicate and area approximately 4' X 9' for this challenge.  I am wondering which switch #s I should choose.  Some advice would be greatly appreciated.

2 questions + 1 comment

I feel a lot better about tackling the switch making process having read the comments.  What I'm stuck on and it has been a long time since I built a layout, how do you choose the switch #s? I am starting with my locomotive yard modeled after CSX's Cumberland Yard.  I recognize the jigs are expensive if your only making a limited supply of switches and also since I'm starting with a yard (there will be 2 mainlines on the perimeter that will have access to the yard). What is the rationale for me to consider when choosing the switch number?  Second question:  Does it make sense to stay with # 83 rail throughout or should I go down to code 70 inside the yard?  If so is there issues I should be aware of when changing rail heights?

Rationale for turnout sizes

Jim,

  The turnout number (or size) that you choose would be influenced partly by the type of equipment you run and how much space you have.  If you run long auto-racks, passenger cars or large steam or diesel locos, you will want a larger number turnout - especially on your mains, or areas where this equipment will run frequently.  The Fremo community has set a minimum of a #6 on the mainline, with #8's being preferred.  #10's would be better for the 80-90 foot equipment.

  But if you have all 40-60 foot cars, you may be able to use a bit smaller numbered turnout and not impact operations.  Personally I would sacrifice that extra half car length and use the larger numbered units.

Toni

Jim Miller - two questions, one comment.

ditto to what Toni said - rolling stock and era have something to do with the choice.  Esthetics, too, the longer (higher number frog ratio) the switch is, the more "real" it is in looks.

My choice of #6 is a compromise, and that's the heart of what Toni's getting at; what's more important, space, or looks.  I'm getting rid of most of my longer freight equipment because I've realized it's not practical with space I have to work in, for example.

You do not have to go the jig route - since I've gotten the fixtures, I've learned about a lot of other methods.  There are parts of those other methods that are very appealing (like no jig price), and parts I'm "kitbashing" in my mind to include for future builds.  (I'm not going post about these kitbash ideas until I have something built to show for it, so I can report on my experience.). 

I will say that using the fast tracks method is good as a "we have a system, we've built a lot of these, and you may find it a good compromise".  I just would have bought pre-made switches and grappled with the electrical issues and been annoyed instead.

I like the jig because (if I want) I can work my way into what to do for scratchbuilt ones, but it'll be an excellent crutch as I learn the ropes.  Also, for what I have in mind, I think a bunch of these are actually going to work fine without having to go beyond the jig.   It's all "your perception" on what the value of these are. (Another way to say it is that the investment got me over the psychological hump of "scratchbuilding switches is hard".  If that works for you, there ya go).

Be sure you watch all the Fast Track videos available, and also look at Tim's "Bronx Terminal" website - there's some cool trackwork stuff that punches my buttons. In other MRH posts (not ones I originated, search for "hand laid" or what not) I've chimed in to mention stuff I've found, links on youtube and so forth about handlaid track, including an MRH one (and don't hesitate to look at n guage handlaid track posts, either, the process is the same (of course smaller and therefore a bit harder). 

Regarding code 70 vs 83, again pros and cons.  The larger the rail is, the more durable (this is probably subject to some argument, so as is the case with anything I've posted as preliminary unless someone argues otherwise and that argument seems stronger to you).  I've met folks at large clubs who stated that although the code 70 and 83 looks great on their layout, they wish they'd gone with code 100 due to the amount of running and the resulting wear on the rail.

I have some older code 55 flex, and it looks very "real" and tiny (and it kinks quite easily) - I'm quite sure a disused spur or siding using it will definitely convey what I've seen in the real world: track that says "this isn't worth using amazing (and expensive) big rail for your one boxcar a month" (or it's been there for 80 years).  So from a visual aspect it may be something worth doing.  Wear is the only practical thing I know of (other than if you're gonna run some really Rivarossi or Tyco stuff that has "big flanges" - my first HO layout had to be code 100 because of this.  As a teenager, I was in heaven running trains on it.

I chose 83 as a compromise as I think 100 looks a little too toylike.  That's my eyes; other modelers do a great job painting it, etc, and to their eyes, it's perfect.  I chose one size everywhere (I think I'm building what other folks call a "chainsaw" layout, a rough and "get rolling without overthinking it" layout) to be fine for me.

John

BTW, thanks for causing me to know what I'm going to name the railroad.  Another decision made! (Grin!)

CSX's Cumberland yard,approximately 4' X 9' ?

That's pretty short for an HO scale yard, might be easier to design it if you cut the board in half and build a 2 foot by 18 foot yard. As for switch numbers I'd go with #5 if you want the most track to fit into a given area or even #4 if you only plan to run older era short equipment. If it's a more modern operation #6 or maybe #7's if you have the room. The best way to learn this stuff is to buy one #4 or #5 switch and one #6 or #7 switch then try to design some track plans using them as templates. Once you have them in hand you'll soon see how much space each size takes and can then make a better decision. Alternatively you could go to the fast tracks website and print out #4,5,6 and #7 switch patterns and cut them out of stiff paper or cardboard. Learning how all this stuff works is a great part of the fun and it's knowledge you'll use for many years  so don't hesitate to jump in and get started.......DaveBranum

Fast Tracks building

I have been building code 83 turnouts for sometime now and have found a few problems along the way.

Prior to buying the two #6 jigs ( straight and curved) I was a Garden Railway fanatic and the cost of turnouts was huge so I developed a way of building Stub Switches using code 215 rail.  I even produced a DVD on this method and although I made it eight or nine years ago, I still get the occasional request to purchase one or two.

Anyway, back to my HO turnouts.

Being on a pension, money is tight and I cannot afford to purchase the laser cut ties so I use match sticks.

The second thing is that being in Australia we get quite a huge range of temperature variations and to cut the frog using a Jeweler saw will not allow enough expansion space and in the middle of summer and last December we had temperatures in excess of 40 C so no running of trains if the cut is that thin.

I use the thinnest cut off wheel that I could find and that happened to be the ones used by Dental Mechanics who manufacture dentures and a box of those will probably still have enough left to bequeath to my modeler son in my will.

The third thing is that after building the turnout in the jig I add another two ties closer to the frog and then cut the rail between the closest ones to the frog and the last one soldered in the jig.  This shortening of the dead section not only has the effect of adding to the strength of the turnout, but also shortens the dead section especially if you happen to be using 0-4-0 switchers.  Once again I don't power the frogs and have always been a dead frog user so no extra outlaying of money.

The forth and last thing that I noticed is that in the following photo:

   I noticed that you have left the end of the tapered end of the blade square to the top of the rail and hence creating a potential derailment point.  I always taper this end slightly and then file a 45 degree angle about 1/3 rd down from the top and then from the inside taper this angled section gently with a file and I guarantee that there will not be any more derailments.

I will now climb down from my soapbox.

If you ever get tired of building turnouts, give some thought to a friend of mine who is building almost 500 #6 turnouts on his layout.

Tips from down under

Thanks for the tips!

They agree with what I've been learning, which is to approach the construction process with "modeler's license", and make adjustments to suit.

John