Dave K skiloff

OK, this isn't going to be anything groundbreaking.  I'm not a rivet counter, nor do I pretend to know every detail and what should be where.  I see detail and I'm good with it, so this isn't going to be a critique of anything they've missed or didn't do correctly according to prototype.  This is just my first impressions of what will be the basis of my passenger fleet on my future N scale railroad.

First, the packaging.  Very standard for N scale, comes in the plastic case, wrapped in plastic film.  Nothing earth shattering and everything was as expected.  The cars come complete with the magnetic wand for the "Easy-peasy" lighting - standard equipment on these babies, and two batteries which come neatly sunk into the plastic mold inside the case.  Instructions are tucked under the plastic mold, along with a couple detail parts.  Here is a picture of it just outside the case:

e%20view.jpg 

As you can see, there is plenty of detail on the underbody and they have metal wheels.  This is the first N scale rolling stock I've seen with metal wheels.  The trucks and couplers are also mounted with screws, another nice feature in my eyes.  The interior is fully detailed and the sunshades are set to half way down.  For a better picture (hopefully) of the underbody detail, look here:

nderbody.jpg 

Obviously not as intricate as the HO version, but it is also more sturdy.  I find with my HO cars, I'm very careful touching anything underneath the car for fear of knocking off a detail, but these are solid on here and it looks good from the side as well.

I don't yet have any track of note to run them on, so I could only place them on my small diorama.  First, I coupled two of them together.  Coupling took quite some time on the slight curve I have, in fact, I had to move them to more of a straight piece to get them to couple, but once coupled, they did not come apart.  I wouldn't plan on trying to couple these on any kind of a curve, but that shouldn't really be necessary.  Here are the two cars coupled together:

ther%202.jpg 

As you can see, they couple very closely together, and with the diaphragms, look very nice and closely coupled.  I wish I had a couple curves to run these through.  Another detail that was easy to spot was the door with the car number inside the diaphragm and the gates on the diaphragm.  Very easy to read for me, but my wife had a little trouble.  I'd have added a picture with the easy-peasy lighting, but I couldn't get a nice picture of it.  It really looks nice in the dark, but the batteries were a trick to install.  More on that in a bit.

The last picture I have is one of the cars coupling to my Kato E8 loco.  I have MTL couplers for the loco, but they aren't installed.  The couplers weren't quite at the same height with the loco, but I'm not sure which one is right.  Still, they did couple after some fiddling, but I really need to get the MTL couplers on the loco.  Here is that picture:

o%20loco.jpg 

As you can see, a diaphragm would be nice to have on the loco to fill in some of the space.  All in all, I think they look pretty good, and my daughter is happy because that E8 is "her" loco for the layout and now she has some cars to pull with it.  Once I get some track.

As I alluded to earlier, you need to install the batteries for the easy-peasy lighting.  In order to install the batteries, you need to remove the roof.  This was a bit of a trick and took me quite a while to do the first one.  My wife tried and ended up taking the sides AND roof off the base, however, that still didn't allow me to get one of the batteries in - you need the roof off.  So we played around trying to get them apart without breaking them and finally figured out how to do it.  I got my fingernail under the roof piece, squeezed it a bit and lifted, then went down the sides of the car until I unlatched one side, then it just pops out.  Putting the batteries in isn't tough, but like anything in N scale, it takes a little patience when you have sausage fingers like I do.  Once we got the batteries in and put the cars back together, I tested the lights out and they look very nice.  Again, I wish I had a picture, but I don't.  I'm not a good photographer in good lighting, and I'm much worse in lower lighting areas.

All in all, these cars will run you around $50 or so each.  Considering you get interior lighting, plenty of detail, metal wheelsets, full interior details and underbody detail, well-detailed diaphragms and nice, close coupling, I think they are worth it.  And they come in many, many different roads and numbers.  If you like detailed passenger cars, these are definitely something to look at.  Hope you enjoyed it.

Dave
Playing around in HO and N scale since 1976

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nittany4

roof removal - not happening

Just got 3 of these in PRR livery and they are absolutely stunning. Quite simply the nicest passenger car I have ever seen in N scale. I wanted something ultra-nice to be pulled by a Kato GG-1 and these fit the bill. However I cannot get the roof off to install the lights, without fear of this thing shattering in my hands. So I'll just run them sans lights. (nothing easy-peasy about that!!)

I am back into the hobby after a long hiatus since my teenage years and I have to admit I am starting to fear N scale was the wrong decision. Things seem very delicate for my 42 year old hands... and eye sight.

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Dave K skiloff

Same fear

When I got mine, I had the same fear, but they are stronger than you think.  I got one off after quite a bit of effort and then my wife got the next one off with much less effort in an effort to show me up.   Then, I found the following on Rapido's Support page for the Panorama line: 

Quote:

Removing the Roof
When we were testing our N scale passenger cars we found there was a gap between the roof and body. To get rid of this gap, we tightened the roof latches. The result is that the roofs on the N scale cars are more difficult to remove than the roofs on our HO scale cars.

The easiest way to remove the roof is to stick a fingernail in the seam between the roof and the end of the carbody at one end of the car. Then just pull up on the roof from that one end - the roof will eventually let go (and without a worrisome plastic-shattering noise).

The roof does become easier and easier to release as the catches wear. Obviously, this only applies to people who are using the interior lighting.

I don't have much for finger nails being a guitar player, so my wife had an easier time doing it.  I did manage to get another one off, but she seems much better at it.  As they say, once you get it off the first time, it isn't as hard the second time, etc.  Its just knowing what it takes and that it will become just a little looser the next time.  Give it a shot.  I now have 8 of them (6 coaches and 2 sleepers) and they look fantastic with or without the lights.

Dave
Playing around in HO and N scale since 1976

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