Test Tracks

I have built and operated several versions, and the club built one for N, HOn3 and HO. I have one in progress which includes N, HOn3, HO, S, O (2 and 3 rail) and Fn3. I do not have any current pictures, but I can try and upload one tomorrow.

The multi-scale version is 8 feet long primarily because of the Large Scale equipment, but most have been in the 18" to 24" range. Current designs include a short section of dead track on each end for mounting the Kadee coupler gages.  Remember that the gages are conductive, and it is extremely embarrassing to have to explain to someone why their power pack or booster was fried. On longer test beds the dead section of track also reduces the probability of damage to runaways.

I use multi-pole switches on most test beds to switch between DC and DCC, but on the multi-scale one I use color coded banana jacks and Andersen Powerpole connectors for switching between tracks and power. Most setups include a second switch to select between programming and operation outputs from the command station / booster. I usually add LEDs with appropriate circuitry on each track to display the power status, e.g., Power On (Green), DC +/- (Red), DC -/+ (Yellow), DCC (Orange). I have included a space for a removable uncoupling magnet on some tracks.

My DC Bench supply has Volt and Amp meters built in, so I do not need to install separate meters. However, instead of installing dedicated meters, I suggest installing banana jacks and patching in RMS DVMs when needed. And for DCC measurements you can plug in a RRampMeter available from Tony's Train Exchange into the same jacks.

In terms of performance or operational testing - beware. Even running an N scale locomotive back and forth on an 8' straight test track misses many functional problems as you barely get moving when you have to stop. For run-in and testing I suggest an oval or figure eight.

Ken

Workbench Test Track

I have two locomotive/car test tracks.

This one, which is currently in storage, is for use when I am away from home.  The test track has two six foot code 83 tracks.  The test track is connected to my Digitrax DCC System as I use the time away from home  to install DCC in my locomotives. I have a laptop PC, Digitrax PR3 and JMRI to program decoders.  In this photo I am using one of  my DB 150 boosters to run the away test track.  I have  recently picked up a Zepher DCS50 on Ebay to run this test track.  The DB 150 is back on the home layout.

This is my home workbench.  You can see my six foot test track mounted to the wall above the bench.  The laptop PC runs JMRI for programing and to run the layout.  The PR3 will work as a stand alone programmer, however the test track is connected to my home Digitrax DCC System (DCS 100 Command Station).  Until recently I used an old desktop PC with a Digtrax  MS100, and needed the PowerPax to boost the programming signal for sound decoders.  The switch box next to the PowerPax is connected to the DCC Command Station, and is used to switch the test track from program  to run so I can test my locomotives at the workbench.  The workbench has a dedicated 20AMP circuit.  The wall  switch cuts power to the workbench.

Scroll down about 3 posts to see how I did this...........

.............. https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/dcc-in-a-box-for-modular-layouts-12192666

Peter

Kadee mount

Isolate the Kadee gauge so it doesnt short the track. tape over the rail or gap one rail in front of the gauge would be easiest.

I have a 18 inch track mounted on a board, gauge on one end and marks along the rail showing length, the weight written on the board.

For loco test runs I use the layout.

Thanks

Thanks for the photos and Ideas.

Jim - I notice you have a powerpax - How does it seem to work for you?  Any problems reading sound equipped locomotives?

Peter - that is quite an impressive test stand.  I hadn't thought about the RRamp meter.  I will have to do some more thinking on this.

PowerPax

I have had my Digitrax System since 1998, but haven't programmed locomotive decoders  from the throttles for years, since I started using JMRI Decoder Pro.  I ran JMRI on an old Windows 98 Desktop PC and used a Digitrax  MS100 for interface.  The MS100 worked great with JMRI, but when I started up grading to sound decoders, I purchased the PowerPax as suggested by the Digitrax Users Group.  Everything worked great.

I work for long periods of time away from home and have a portable work bench and test track.  I purchased a Digitrax PR3 to use "on the road" to test installed decoders. I run  JMRI on a Laptop PC.  Last year my wife got a new Dell Laptop PC for her birthday and her old PC went to the layout to run JMRI.  Since the PC does not have a RS232 Serial Port I can no longer use the MS100. So I now use the PR3.

I have since picked up a Digitrax Zepher (DCS50) on Ebay and use it on my "on the road" test track.  Neither the Zepher or the PR3 need the PowerPax, but it was already installed on the workbench.  I have had no problems with Digitrax, Tsunami and QSI sound decoders.

DCFORBES..............

............I forgot to put in my description the 8 foot long shelf with both O standard and On30 track that plugs into the DC/DCC output on the side.  It gives the units a bit more room to run but I do agree you need to run them on a layout for a complete de-bug ie. a short on a curve.  As far as "running in" I use the Bachrus rollers.

Peter

Test Station

I was able to get a picture of the club test and programming setup. My stuff is still buried, but I will try to get a picture this week. Coupler setup and testing has been moved to separate portable tracks.

test track

My in house test track is a piece of 1x4 with a 36" length of flex laid on with calking. very simple. I have a Digitrax Zephyr with program booster. The power and program leads attach to a DPDTCO switch, so I can either run-off-prog. When I am doing coupler checks I make sure it is in off position before putting coupler gauge on the track. my layout is in a separate area with its' own power setup. Using the test track eliminates accidentally programming every loco on the layout. Simple and safe. A friend in our club made one up using Atlas sectional track with two re-railer sections. What could be easier? John Colley, Port Townsend, WA

Tes Track

I have a short  15" portable test track made of plywood with a piece of code 100 track on it.  I have a block of wood at one end long enough to take a tender on which sits a second piece of track.  The block of wood is sufficiently thick so that the shorter piece of track matches the height of Bachrus roller assemblies placed on the lower, longer length of track.  The assemblies can slide along this track to be placed under the drive wheels of either steam locomotives or diesels. The width of the pieces of wood are the same size as an assembly and these are kept in place by two thin pieces of plywood nailed to the outside of the larger piece of wood and also the block.  This makes the test track a U shape.  The rails on both blocks of wood are interconnected so that both the Bachrus assemblies and the tender track receive power.  The whole test track sits on a larger piece of wood (about 9" wide and 18" long) which also holds a cheap very small train set power pack.  This is interconnected to an inexpensive  voltmeter and ammeter so I can check volts and milliamps, or can be connected to a digital VOM, by jacks, to the track.  There is also a small plastic tool holder of the "bench"  Soft foam mouse pads can be placed on the wood side pieces ( removing the sliding Bachrus assemblies so that I can hold a locomotive upside down for oiling or other maintenance.  Power can be fed to the wheels through a Kadee  wheel cleaning brush.  An insulated Kadee height gauge allows me to check height of Kadee couplers on locomotives or cars.

Test Track

I just rewired my side-by-side 24" test tracks with DPDTCO toggles to allow the addition of the PowerPax to the cluster.  My tracks are mounted on a wall shelf with moulding sides you can buy at a builders supply, and turned over for stability.     A hole drilled in the back to allow wiring and toggles on one end between the tracks.  Using JMRI on and old computer (WindowsXP), Digitrax Zephyr, and a PR3 with the PowerPax.  One toggle switches between program track power and mainline track power to the tracks (simultaneously).  The other toggle switches between DCC and DC.  I still have a cheap DC power pack I use to test DC locos.  I can now program most locos.  Some of the MRC sound decoders are still very limited.

The only issues I had when setting it up was getting everything to agree to function at the same time.  I traced the biggest problem to the USB port on the computer not responding.   JMRI gave a "Time out, no response from decoder" error. The port assignment will change every time you unplug the connection.  I had to force the port to emulate COM4, then restart JMRI and edit profile port default to match.  Every thing now works as it should.

John Moran, Bradenton, FL.

Test Track

My test track is about 5' long and includes a #6 turnout in the center to check operation thru a turnout. Note that Kadee sells a plastic coupler gage so you don't need to insulate rails.

Rolling road

Here is my loco test track.

For rolling stock I just have a Kadee mounted on a block and I use my yard lead to check coupling height. Wheels are checked with a gauge before placing on the track. 

Mike Ruby

Mike, a couple of questions........

Based on the 5 amp draw, I am guessing this is O scale, correct?  Are you using 2 decoders, 1 for all the amps and one for sound?  I model in O and have re-powered all my locomotives with Portescap and Maxon motors to get the amps below 1 so I can use a single Tsunami.  I guess the cost is about the same as the motors aren't cheap.  The advantage I can see is sub 1 smph speed. 

I would really like to see more info on how you built this bad boy-it's very impressive and would like to see if I could add it to my tester below:

Thanks.

Peter

My stand

This is my test stand so far.  It is built from old 1 x 6 material that my father had.  The lower level will contain the track and the upper level will have the volt and ammeter as well as a throttle, and a switch to go from DC to DCC.  The goal is to have it hang on the wall out of the way when I don't need it. 

It's HO

I model in HO, the meter reads up to 1 amp. The loco in the video is a Blueline one with two decoders It is taking less than 0.5A. It now has single Loksound Select, which has better motor control and far better sound.

The rollers are no longer available, made by Gauge Master, they sit on two aluminum strips screwed to angle which is fixed to the wood base. Power is fed to the a ali strips.

The ammeter is connected direct when on D.C. and via a bridge rectifier on DCC, that is what the right switch does.

The speed readout is a push bike speedo. I couldn't get enough traction to move a magnet on the rollers which is why I used an optical sensor. I plan to change it to a slot infra red sensor as the reflective one is a bit tricky to get in the right position. Then the sensing disc will have slots cut in it to switch the sensor on and off. The electronics are very basic, the sensor operates a reed relay which switches the input to the speedo, a transistor would be better and probably allow a faster speed, this one gives up around 90 mph. 

The speed roller is made from two rollers the wheels run on, fixed to a shaft running through four dental ball bearings (used in dental hand pieces) fitted in a brass tube. The rollers have heat shrink tubing on them to increase traction. The speedo wheel diameter is set to the scale diameter of the rollers, this gives a scale speed read out.

Progress

Progress is coming along.  I have painted the test stand with the same brown I have used for the layout base.  I have also fastened down the voltmeter and amp meter.  I'm not sure yet how to attach the throttle.  I am planning on getting banana plugs for the meters as well as a DPDT to switch between DC power and DCC power.  I also need to glue the track down.    

update

Here I have glued down the track, gapped the track in front of the Kadee coupler height gage, and screwed down the coupler height gage as well.  Now I won't lose it any more.  I have also screwed in two large eye bolts so that I can hang the test track on my pegboard wall/shelf when I'm not using.  Up next is adding the wiring and the DPDT to change from DCC to DC.

update

Here is my completed test stand.  I hope to get the Bachrus running stand so that the locomotives don't have to move.  The banana plugs are handy in the meters as when I reverse directions, I have to reverse the plugs.  I have made up a strip to tape in front of the track for car weights.  I hope to tape it down tonight. 

Here it is making measurements on my moving Athearn Blue Box ICG loco. 

/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/dcforbesfiles/NMRA%20RP%20Car%20Weight.doc

This is my NMRA weight measuring device that I hope to get taped down tonight.

Bachrus is great for............

........breaking in locomotives and programming DCC on the main, on the fly, to see differences w/o having to chase it down the track!

Peter

I think I'm finished

This is pretty much it, until I get the RRampmeter for the DCC side of things.