workbench surface

Instead of ordering a counter top stop by the store and see what they have lying around (broken order etc).

As I commented in a different post, I found these thin cheap (under $1) plastic cutting boards at a local surplus type place (Ocean State Job Lot). I just tape it to the surface and us it for cutting and painting.

Years ago

Many years ago, I bought an old high school chemistry lab desk at a yard sale the school was holding. I paid about $15 for it. It is about 2 feet wide by about 4 feet long - heavy wood construction. The top is about an inch and a half thick and must weigh near 100 lbs. I'm not sure what it is made out of, but it is darned near indestructible! It is the perfect modelers workbench!

George

Cheap Upgrade

Melamine coated particle board is a nice inexpensive replacement for your existing surface. The melamine coating is extremely hard and waterproof. Still can't cut directly on it but that isn't a good idea on any workbench surface. Same coating commonly used on commercial shelving.

Here is my woodshop bench that has seen nine years of brutal service. The melamine is hanging right in there. If and when it gets real nasty I can flip it over and have a brand new surface.

I also used melamine for the work surface of the bench in my train room. Added an inset aluminum angle across the front to prevent the edge from getting ragged.

I used 1/2 inch oak plywood

I used 1/2 inch oak plywood that I had precut for me at a big box store. 

Cost was about $50 for a 4x8, and that was more then enough to do a 12'+ workbench. 

I was lucky to have a solid core door sitting around...

Ken - I had a solid core door sitting around from a remodel project (dog chewed the !P(#@*&$ out of it).  I works wonderfully for all the tasks you listed. I've mounted a mini table saw, belt sander, drill press, chopper, cut off saw, ....  I build cars and structures on it.   And because it had been finished with good polyurethane it's essentially waterproof.  Doesn't warp, is heavy enough to be stable, and has a handy cord through-hole where the lockset used to go.

I do put down a sheet of glass when gluing so nothing sticks to it.  And a self-healing cutting mat so I don't gouge it to pieces.

Paul E. Sojka

Thanks Alan!

That looks like the perfect solution.  Cheaper than a countertop, but will do the job.  Not sure what to do about the seam, perhaps some vinyl spackle, because it's 98" wide, and that width can not be changed, as explained below:

 

In this photo you see the entire workbench. There is a bookcase underneath the end of the workbench that is facing the wall that you see in the picture where I keep back issues of various magazines I have.  The bookcase extends to the right, where you can see the back side of the taller section of the bookcase, where I keep various modeling and prototype books.  Currently where you see those white plastic tubs will soon be replaced with drawers, and those storage tubs will be relocated to the model storage room down the hall from this room. 

To the extreme right of the photo you can see the paint booth and storage shelves for the different toolboxes where all of the tools I used for model railroad construction are kept.

 

In this photo you are looking at the workbench/workshop from the opposite view.  It shows all the toolbox shelves and paint booth.  Because the workbench and bookcase surround the sofa in the other side of the room, it can not be shortened to the width of the material. 

Ken L.

Trim

Drop in a piece of red oak on each end to make up for the missing 2". A little polyurethane satin clear on the oak will make a nice finished appearance an then the 96" melamine will be drop in fit.

Be Flexible

I have two forms of work benches: portable and main. The portable benches are based on Black and Decker Workmate Portable Project Centers, and the main bench is a metal leg, maple butcher block, eight foot monster. For the portable bench I have fabricated several two foot square tops each with a base of 1/2" or 3/4" cabinet grade plywood: one covered with a green hobby cutting mat for modeling, one with nonstick composite material for painting and gluing and one which is soft but impervious to oil for working on cars and locomotives. I can swap out the cutting mat for an anti static mat for working on electronics. These tops can be swapped even if they are cover with work in progress (i.e., junk).

The maple surface of the main bench is great for light or finish woodworking and modeling, but I have large cutting and anti static mats and a 1/4 inch steel plate which can be pulled out when necessary. The maple has been heavily treated with many coats of tung and linseed oils which actually stands up to most adhesives but readily soaks up petroleum oils and many paints. If the top were to get really messed up, I could plain it down 1/8" to 1/4" still leaving over 1 3/4" thickness.

Old dining room table.

I use an old trestle style dining room table from our early marriage days.  The top's a mess and I had to add a couple of shelf brackets as bracing.  But its flat, 3x5, and I don't have to worry about ruining it.

Paul

Inexpensive idea

Oak butcher block.

   My bench is half oak butcher block 1 and 1/4 inch thick and the other half is 10 gage steel. I also have a plastic cutting board for doing glue ups and other things. All three surfaces are just about indestructible. The oak only has an oil finish and is easily cleaned and or repaired. The steel side is painted machinery grey and is scratched. My 5 inch bench vise is mounted to it.

         Pete

Just one is not enough

Two layers of 3/4 " plywood framed in 1 x 4 with a space for a replaceable 1/4 " masonite work surface,  Works great for engine and transmissions although the kitchen table works for that as well.

Oh, you mean trains...

I had a piece of countertop left over from a counter replacement that worked great.  The big stuff was done on the big 3/4 " one in the garage.  Do be aware that some of the commercially available countertops have curves built into them to keep fluids from running on the floor.

Terry

Terry beat me to it

I use a piece of 3/4" plywood covered with 1/4" hardboard masonite. The masonite is fastened with countersunk screws so it is replaceable. I have replaced the top in my heavy workshop but in over twenty years I haven't had to replace my modeling top. I have however shifted over a little due to excessive wear on one section, but the bench is 6' long so the worn part is now covered with supplies.

willie

Off topic

Alan,

Do I spy a single trace Heatkit oscilloscope? I have one too.

Bernd

Yep, primitive by today's standards but still works for the simple projects I build. Alan

I second the Melmine idea

No matter what type of

No matter what type of material you are using for your workbench. I would recommend getting a piece of tempered glass to all your work on (around 16" x 24" seems to work for me). I do all my cutting upon a green self-healing mat that you can pick up at any craft-store.

Dan

LOL, me too.  I built it in

"Do I spy a single trace Heatkit oscilloscope? I have one too."

Bernd.

LOL, me too.  I built it in 1978 when i attended RCA institute here in NYC.

OK, this is what i went with..

...Purchased a sheet of Melmine, had it cut to 33" deep, along with a 3/4" x 1/16" strip of Aluminum to cover the front edge of the 3/4" sheet.  I also purchased a piece of 1x2 poplar that I will rip into two 1" x 33" strips to make the total workbench width 98" wide.  I just went to Michael's using a 50% off coupon purchased a 24" x 36" self healing matt.  

I also purchased 6 sets of 22" deep drawer guides to install drawers underneath the left side of the workbench.  I decided the plastic storage containers should be moved to the storage room since most of that stuff is scenery material anyways, and most likely will be used downstairs when I do scenery on the layout that anything I do at the workbench.  My original idea of doing the section/module construction upstairs became impractical for several reasons, so that idea was scrapped.  I figure there will be one drawer to store fasteners, bolts, screws, etc, one for car and locomotive parts, and the rest i'll figure out as I go along.  I might empty a couple of the toolboxes and store the tools in the drawers since I'm noticing with certain tools, I have to constantly get the toolbox, use the tool, then return it back to the toolbox constantly which is a pain.  The tools that I use once in a while will be kept in the toolboxes but things like Calipers, screwdrivers, utility knives, etc, might be better stored in a sliding drawer.

Thanks all for your input and feedback.  As soon as I have everything done, i'll post some updated pictures.

Ken L

I"m currently finishing the backboard, and side of the tool box shelves with 3/16" masonite. 

The top is about an inch and

If it's black stone, it's probably soapstone.  That was commonly in school labs.

My workbench is Masonite over plywood.  Screw it down rather than glue it, so that it an be replaced.

Steve S

My current bench

This works for me

My work bench top is a piece of kitchen counter top. My actual work surface is a sheet of thick glass. This is where I do my structure building, car assembly, kitbashing, and so forth.  I have another workbench for sawing, hammering, drilling. Good lighting is a must for both of them.

Brian(MN)

My Melamine Workbench

I used Melamine and it's very sturdy, but It's starting to get a little worn looking from all the glue, paint and solvents I've dripped on it. The good thing is it's cheap and easily replaceable. I also purchased some edge tape to make the sides look a little more finsihed.

work surface

 I have a layer of cheap pre-finished hardboard that I can replace as needed. It's about 1/4 inch thick and has a hard white surface on one side.Cost just a few bucks and is tacked down with a few small brads. I set a sheet of plastic cutting mat on it when I'm cutting parts out other wise I don't worry about it too much as can be seen in the photo..dave 

Masonite

One of my clients is a machine shop and many years ago they had workbenches built for all of their machinists. The benches are made of sturdy stuff, 2x4 frame, plywood sides and back and 1" top work area. 1/4" Masonite was then placed over the 1" plywood. It is screwed in place making it easy to remove and replace when necessary. Masonite is smooth, tough, durable, replaceable, economical and its been around forever.

As the machine shop transitioned from mills and lathes to CNC Tools they did not need as many workbenches so they gave some away. I was lucky enough to get one of these beasts and put it in my garage. After I cleaned it up I replaced the Masonite top and now can pretty much do what I want without fear of damaging the bench top.

It made sense the if Masonite was good enough for a machine shop and my garage then it would be great for anything I could do while modeling in my train room so I cut a piece and put it on my converted desk. Now my modeling bench is pretty much indestructible and if not, I will replace the top with a new slice of Masonite.