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Connecting Styrofoam to Traditional subroadbed. Benchwork and roadbed
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Frequent poster 741 posts George J Frequent poster 741 posts
George J

Due to recent health issues, it has become painfully obvious that I won't be manhandling 4x8 sheets of 1/2 inch MDF (or portions thereof) down into my basement anymore. So, I've decided to finish my layout using 2 inch Styrofoam for the remainder of my subroadbed - which is mainly just the main yard and staging yards.

I'm looking for suggestions on the best way to connect the new Styrofoam subroadbed to the current 1/2 inch MDF.

I was thinking of simply cutting a notch in the end of the Styrofoam 1/2 inch deep and maybe an inch or so long and seating the end of the MDF in that. Fortunately, the benchwork that will support the styrofoam has not been built yet, so I can customize it to receive the Styrofoam and the interface between the Styrofoam and the current subroadbed.

Any suggestions?

George

"And the sons of Pullman porters and the sons of engineers, ride their father's magic carpet made of steel..."

Milwaukee Road : Cascade Summit- Modeling the Milwaukee Road in the 1970s from Cle Elum WA to Snoqualmie Summit at Hyak WA.
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Terry Roberts Regular poster 345 posts
Terry Roberts

The other way

I would put a 3" wide shelf on the present roadbed at the right height so the styrofoam is at the right height.  Styrofoam does break relatively easy.  I have broken 8' pieces without assistance...

Other than the overlap either way works.  I just feel it is easier to use a factory surface than smooth and sand a dado.

Terry
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Russ Bellinis Prolific poster 3,335 posts
Russ Bellinis

Use a framework for the foam.

A number of members of the modular club have used foam.  They have made a perimeter frame out of 1x2, 1x3, or 1x4 lumber, with cross members to support the foam on the bottom and then the foam drops in to the frame.  The ends are 1x4 because that is the requirement for the bolts that we specify in the club standards to connect modules together.  The lumber is very light weight ands easy to carry down to the basement.  Build the framework and bolt it to the connecting bench work with wood screws.  The foam drops in and use the appropriate glue to secure the foam to the framework.  You will probably need to have a 1x2 cross member every 12 inches or so to keep the foam from being broken, but the foam is strong enough by itself to be self suporting as long as you or another operator doesn't put a hand down and lean on it.,
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George J Frequent poster 741 posts
George J

Thanks for the ideas!

Terry, Russ,

Thanks for the suggestions. Russ, I have to say when you mentioned modules, the little curlely-que CFL light bulb above my head lite up! Years ago I built a module for the club I belonged to at the time, and images of the interface between the modules flashed before my eyes. Good suggestion, I'll treat the transition point just as if it were the interface between two modules.

Again, thanks!

George

"And the sons of Pullman porters and the sons of engineers, ride their father's magic carpet made of steel..."

Milwaukee Road : Cascade Summit- Modeling the Milwaukee Road in the 1970s from Cle Elum WA to Snoqualmie Summit at Hyak WA.
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duckdogger Super User 808 posts
duckdogger

I used a thin layer, more

I used a thin layer, more like a film covering, of DAP Alex Plus to bond beaded polystyrene to my extruded pink foam and 1/2-inch thick plywood. If the styrene sheets are film coated, as are those from HD, I strip the film so the DAP contacts the product directly for a superior hold.
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