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laying track with glue Track and electrical/DCC
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Active Member 86 posts kengoudsward Active Member 86 posts
kengoudsward

Hi guys - just thought I'd share this because i was pleasantly surprised by how well it worked.

I just added a removable staging fiddleyard which is essentially a 12 inch wide sheet of MDF containing 5 staging tracks. Since it is installed in front of my wife's storage shelf it has to be very easy to remove!  I wanted to make sure there wouldn't be any nails sticking out the back, as this could be a pain (literally) when moving the unit, so I thought i would try some type of glue. 

First I tried white glue, but it didn't bond as strongly as I wanted to the plastic ties.

Another thread here suggested silicone which I went to try, but found that all the tubes I had were all dried up and no longer usable.

I then tried hot glue and it worked like a hot darn!

the bond is very strong on both plastic and wood surfaces, but you do have to be pretty quick as you only have a couple seconds before it starts to set. I found it helped to trace the outline of the track beforehand to make it easier to get it positioned quickly. I also found it helpful to glue one section at a time, connect the next, then lift it gently to get the glue underneath. You do not need to cover the area like you would with white glue - just run a quick bead along the length.

One thing i didn't like was that it was difficult to control the exact curvature around a tight (18'' radius) curve using flextrack. I'm used to using nails which give me the ability to get the track laying perfectly the way i want my curve before i drive the nails in.

One other caveat - be careful with turnouts! - don't glue underneath the point rails

 
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johndrgw Regular poster 209 posts
johndrgw

Glue not the best solution

I would not recommend any type of glue because most are permanent or make removing the track or shifting it extremely difficult if not impossible. Glued tracks also transmit noise to subroadbed and benchwork.

Instead, I suggest using an adhesive caulk like DAP 230 Flex (I think that is the right name). It comes in many colors; I use a light brown color, it holds well and remains flexible and is paintable.  Its rubbery consistency also helps muffle the transmission of noise to the benchwork. It is available at the usual home centers.

John
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BLKWDW_SD9 New member 12 posts
BLKWDW_SD9

I have used Goo by Walther's.

I have used Goo by Walther's. To apply run a single bead approximately 1/8 inch on your surface spread slightly, place track and temporally tack track with push pins or small wire brad/nails. There are others like Contact Glue, Barge cement and other glues that have a rubber base to them. Using this type of glue is real good because once it cures it's there and will not shift. You can also change curvature if need be by using a Hair Dryer or Hot Air Gun and if the need ever arises where you have to remove the track all you need is again Hair Dryer or Hot Air Gun and a utility knife blade, single edge razor blade or even a small diameter wire. Been doing this for years and have never experienced problems.

jd
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LMACKATTACK Regular poster 219 posts
LMACKATTACK

Dap.

Down at the club we used dap flexable glue and it world great. Holds firm, slightly flexible,brown to match the atlas code 80 flex track, no nail holes to be seen, no spikes seen. ... We weathered the track and it looks great. ....never thought glue would be a good use but it worked great..
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Bruce Petrarca Frequent poster 920 posts
Bruce Petrarca

I like clear Polyseamseal!

Use a very thin coat or you will never get the track up. We are currently dismantling a layout that was done several years ago with a thick bead of caulk. The reciprocating saw will sometimes cut through the Atlas code 83 rails without pulling them up! We tried to salvage some track, to no avail!

Bruce Petrarca, Mr. DCC; MMR #574
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David Husman dave1905 MRH Author 9,814 posts
David Husman dave1905

Acrylic Adhesive Caulk

I would recommend Acrylic Adhesive Caulk, in a paintable clear, brown or grey.  Its cheap, won't damage the ties like hot glue or solvent based glues might, cleans with water and is not too horrible to remove (especially compared to silicone caulk).  I've used a half dozen brands and they all worked.  I have also used it to glue layer of foam together and weights into cars.

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

Blog index:  Dave Husman Blog Index
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proto87stores Frequent poster 806 posts
proto87stores

Something a little different

I've become very successful at putting down both flex and bench built hand-laid track with 3M 77 Spray adhesive plus some spray polyurethane varnish.

1. 77 spray the baseboard to set down the roadbed

2. Then 77 spray the road bed to hold the printed paper track exact position templates.

3. Spray the templates with spray matte polyurethane varnish (water based) and leave to set permanently water proof overnight (technically I think it hardens in just a couple of hours, but why rush   )

4. Add your bus wiring to the roadbed area and feeders to the underside of the rails of your pre-painted track.

5. 77 spray the templates and lay the flex base to the templates.  Couple up the feeder wires to the bus wiring.

6 Add ballast by your preferred method, let set and Bingo!!!

The 77 adhesive is more than strong enough to hold over larger areas, such as the underside of track perfectly well. 

And boy does this go quickly!

 

 

 

Andy
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LenTurner Regular poster 131 posts
LenTurner

Aleene's Tacky Glue...

I glue M/E Flex-Track directly to the foam base - no roadbed - using Aleene's Tacky Glue. I run a single bead down the center of the track line, weight it or tack it down and let it dry overnight. The bond is flexible and holds the track quite well. Even after ballasting, if you want to salvage the track, just soak it with alcohol for about 30 minutes and you can lift it with a spatula.

Regards,

Len
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