DougA

hi everyone,

im curious what people use for handlaid ho track.  about a couple of decades ago, i handlaid my code 100 nickel silver on campbell low profile wood ties (i think they were campbell).  i glued the rail everywhere and spiked occasionally.  is this still the typical approach?  i see that some people are using pc board ties occasionally and soldering those into place.  is there an advantage to using soldered pc ties?  are low profile wood ties still available?  these were advantageous because they didn't split when spiked.

i see that there are a couple of manufacturers who supply switch building jigs.  these appear to be either plastic ties or pc ties?  in the land of dcc, is there an advantage to building switches with pc ties?  now that ill be using dcc, i see that ill have to build my switches so that the frogs and points are not electrically continuous (i think this old style of making switches was called power routed???).

oh, if you like to glue your rail, what kind of glue are you using?

thanks for any thoughts!!!

doug

 

Reply 2
bear creek

Wood ties

I use Micro Engineering wood ties, but I've heard they're having supplier problems. Another source is Mt Albert scale lumber.

An alternative to wood ties are the Central Valley plastic ties strips (with special tie strips for turnouts). They recommend gluing the rails in place using Barge cement (use the older yellow can Barge cement, not the newer Blue stuff).

As for spikes I've used Micro Engineering small spikes. But their heads are way oversize so I use diagonal nippers to chop off excessive spike head. Alternatively, proto87 stores sells some spikes including ones that are scale size for HO (practically invisible). If you're looking to make really good looking track they also sell scale tie plates and jigs to place them.

PC ties are a strange concept. If you solder sparingly they look OK (but not perfect) when painted and weathered. They'll hold track firmly in gauge, but if you discover you somehow got the gauge or alignment wrong after laying the track you can reheat the rail/tie joints with a soldering iron and nudge the rails into correct position. I find PC ties especially useful for building turnouts -- no more depending on sloppy fit spikes to hold points or frogs exactly in place.

Hand laid track is far from dead.

Cheers,

Charlie

Superintendent of nearly everything  ayco_hdr.jpg 

Reply 3
Montanan

   My layout is hand laid

My layout is hand laid code 70 except for some manufactured code 83 used for hidden staging. Most was done in the late 80's using a product called Homabed, a homasote roadbed product. I used a Kadee spike gun, which is sort of like a staple Gun. The spikes look like staples when you load the gun. I glued all of my ties to the homasote with regular Elmers Wood Glue. The head is set up with a guide that you would gently slide up against a tie, and there is a slot in the head that goes over the rail. When the gun is squeezed just like a regular staple gun, the spike (staple) is cut in the center, and a spike is driven through the ties into the roadbed.

Unfortunately, my spiker died for about the 6th time and when I sent it back to Kadee, I was informed that it was beyond repair this time. Unfortunately,Kadee no longer manufactures this spike gun. I would love to get another because you sure can turn into a track laying animal with one of those tools.  I have used spikes from Walthers for recent track work. They have some decent spikes and the heads aren't too big. I really enjoy hand laying rail and turnouts because you can build everything right where you need it instead of having to make adjustments to work with manufactured turnouts. Check a Walthers catalog to see who makes the ties. Mine weren't Campbell, but due to my CRS, I can't tell you what brand they are. There are a few manufacturers. I have been building my own frogs and find they aren't too difficult after you have a few under your belt. I keep a lot of stock rail on hand.

Logan Valley RR  G0174(2).jpg 

 

Reply 1
DougA

spikes, glue, and solder

thanks for the thoughts, this is really helpful.  im not so much concerned with the size of the spike head as i am with the ability of the track to stay in place and keep its gauge.  in fact, too small of spike and i really cant see it well enough to spike the rail.  i think ill skip the pre-fab switch making approach. in the past, i had good luck building switches in place.  i think the fast tracks point making and frog making jigs that hold the rail while you file looks helpful.  ill keep you posted on my progress....

Reply 1
railandsail
What progress,...report??
Reply 0
David Husman dave1905
I use ME micro spikes to hand lay code 70 and 55 on Kappler wood ties on Homasote or Homabed.
Don’t use PC ties (but have in the past).
Don’t use jigs but do use paper templates under the ties.
I lay switches in place, but have built them on the workbench.
Have  done mostly HO, but did build on in N scale and one in HOn3 just to see if I could.  
have built switches using codes 55, 70, 83, and 100 rail.  

I have links to YouTube videos I have made on hand laying track in the “How To” section of my website.

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

Blog index:  Dave Husman Blog Index

Reply 2
ctxmf74
"im curious what people use for handlaid ho track.  about a couple of decades ago, i handlaid my code 100 nickel silver on campbell low profile wood ties (i think they were campbell).  i glued the rail everywhere and spiked occasionally.  is this still the typical approach?"
 
    Hi Doug, The old way still works fine. Most folks that spike rail to ties don't use glue on the rail, just on the ties to roadbed bond. It was common to spike every 4th or 5th tie but with a Kadee spiker it was easy to spike every tie. Adding PC board ties every 4th or 5th tie let one lay rail without spiking. Some folks found it easier to solder instead of spike( I use pc board ties for N or TT scale but spike rail in larger scales). DCC friendly turnouts can be built with either wooden ties and spikes or with PC ties and solder. If you know how to build turnouts without jigs I see no reason to get any but the Fastrack point/frog filing jig is worth the cost if you plan to make quite a few turnouts. Profile ties are thinner so less ballast is required, I don't use them but i see them on ebay quite often so even if they are not currently made they are still available. With profile ties you need an easy spiking roadbed material, Homasote/Homabed  being the best choice. Don't worry about all the possible new methods, just go with what seems easiest for you to get trains running...DaveB
Reply 2
eastwind
Progress? The thread's been dead for 10 years!!
 
I'm putting a reminder on my calendar to resurrect your dipless turnout thread in 10 years and ask you what progress you've made.

You can call me EW. Here's my blog index

Reply 5
jimfitch
eastwind wrote:
Progress? The thread's been dead for 10 years!!
 
I'm putting a reminder on my calendar to resurrect your dipless turnout thread in 10 years and ask you what progress you've made.
Kudos!  Well said!

.

Jim Fitch
northern VA

Reply 2
Graham Line
In the intervening 10 years, while Rip Van W. was sleeping, Kadee has revived its Spiker for Code 100, if anyone wants to use one.
 
Reply 2
Ken Rice
Many years ago I had one of those spikers for code 70, for my On2 project.  It was a bit finicky, had a tendency to dent the rail if you weren’t careful, and the resulting “spikes” didn’t look as good as ME spikes.  I ended up getting rid of it and hand spiking.
I wonder if gen 3 is better?
Reply 1
ctxmf74
gen 3 spiker?
 
It will be interesting to see how many folks buy one. Code 100 seems like an odd choice as most serious HO modelers are using code 83 or smaller rail.Perhaps it's aimed at the On30 crowd?  For $500 one can buy a lot of flextrack though :>😉 ......DaveB
Reply 2
David Husman dave1905
I learned how to lay track using a Kadee spiker back in the mid-1970's.
 
Fortunately, have never had to use one since.

Dave Husman

Visit my website :  https://wnbranch.com/

Blog index:  Dave Husman Blog Index

Reply 1
Pennsy_Nut
I tend to agree with KenR: They were not as good looking as simple spikes.
It seemed to be a good tool when it worked, but it didn't always work the way it should. Denting rail was common. And a new one for $500? No way would I even think about it.
They probably chose code 100 because the denting would be less. Code 70 is far too light for a "spiker".
For On30 or any that is usually hand worked, the old spikes are still the choice. IMHO those who model O gauge want better looking spikes than those produced by the spiker. So all in all/IMHO, Kadee isn't doing it right.

Morgan Bilbo, DCS50, UR93, UT4D, SPROG IIv4, JMRI. PRR 1952.

Reply 2
dapenguin
I think it had more to do with all the parts Kadee had left over.

TC Carr
Malheur, Kopperton & Tejas * Sn3½ in 1923
(the I don't know yet) * Sn2 "Gilpin in Idaho"
​Anaconda, Oregon & Pacific * S Scale Heavy Electric
My Blog Index

Reply 2
Scott Forbes
As to your question about turnouts, the advantage to PC ties is being able to build turnouts at the bench rather than in place. The jigs are not really necessary.  I always suggest that people check out this video about hand laying turnouts:
 
Reply 1
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