John Schaub

I"m starting to go through my engine collection to see how they're running after a two years of storage.

My collection of Proto 2000 diesels that are "new in the box" are having some mechanical problems. For

example: binding motor in a GP 38-2, another GP 38-2 that will only go in one direction. Has anyone else

had similar conditions with this lot ? Is there a solution to regearing or changing out the parts with aftermarket

items? Most of this equipment is out of warranty. What's the solution?

Thanks for your help,

John Schaub

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Milt Spanton mspanton

Oil is your friend

I think there were other threads on this, but I found that my P2K SD9s and Geeps need to have the bronze worm bearings oiled.  It may require that you take the electrical board and weights off to get to them.  It is a nuisance, but it solved my problems.

Unlike others, I have not had any issues with cracked axle gears except on a trio of Proto FAs, but they ran with a noticeable clunk, so it was obvious what was wrong there.

- Milt
The Duluth MISSABE and Iron Range Railway in the 50's - 1:87

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Bruce Petrarca

P2K GPS . . .

of older vintage frequently crack the drive axle gears. My opinion is that the rears were too small in outside diameter. They don't seem to have enough meat to handle the thermal expansion of the metal axles, so they crack. A quick test is to hold the loco upside down and rotate the wheels on each end of each axle in opposite directions. If they turn, the gear is cracked. I've found locos with one, two, three or all four cracked. There are lots of suggestions of alternate sources for parts: Athearn, etc. I don't like fixing things more than once, so I spend the bucks and replace all four gears with a set of machined Delrin ones (http://www.litchfieldstation.com/xcart/product.php?productid=999003095) from Northwest Short Line. They are more precise, resulting in quieter operation. They also lubricate nicely. While you are at it, lube with Nano-Oil (http://www.litchfieldstation.com/xcart/product.php?productid=999007592). Use 5 or 10 weight on the bearing surfaces and 85 weight on the axle and worm gears. A drop is enough!

Bruce Petrarca, Mr. DCC; MMR #574

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Joe Atkinson IAISfan

P2K GP38-2s

I never had issues with cracked gears on my P2K GP38-2s, but did have problems with what I was assuming was the lubricant hardening when they were idle.  After they'd sit a while, especially in colder months, they'd always develop a loud squeal until they warmed up.  I eventually dropped the shells on Atlas Trainman GP38-2 drives I found for around $35-40, since even on DCC, I like to standardize on a small number of quality drives, and the Atlas was one of my favorites.  Here's a short photo essay describing the changes:

http://www.iaisrailfans.org/gallery/GP38-2-repowering

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John Schaub

P2K diesels

Milt,

Thanks for the advice. I will look into that.

 

John

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John Schaub

P2K diesels

Bruce,

Thank you for your input on this subject. I'm glad to hear NWSL makes replacement gears.

My investment on a pair of D&H GP38-2's is worth it now even more.

 

Regards,

John Schaub

The Interchange at Vermont

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John Schaub

P2K diesels

Joe,

Thanks for the advice. I will consider this route as an alternative to the existing power plant.

John Schaub

The Interchange at Vermont

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ratled

Its the P2K "peanut butter" most likely

If you have never striped the loco down then it's the peanut butter P2K used as lube that has harden on you causing problems.  Here is a free video on stripping down the the P2K GP38  and how to get all of that out of it.

Steve

 

 

 

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JoeH

P2K "Peanut Butter"

Thanks for this video! I also had old Proto locomotives which seized or just "jerked" around my layout. After cleaning out the original lube, my Protos run as good or better than new. I was so thrilled that I shared this with other club members who are again happy with their old Protos. Also, TSG Media has a podcast which I now follow. Thanks again, TSG! Joe
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